More Soluble Oil...

Awl--

Got a gallon or two "donation" of blue Valcool (a Valenite product, I just learned), so ahm sorta set for a while.

But here's what ahm learnin:

The dilution ratios for various oils varies *widely*, from 6:1 to 35:1, from what I've seen. My local suppliers carry Rustlick, whose WS5050 oil they say supports dilution ratios from 8:1 to 35:1 ! But read further....

I was under but another mis-impression that 30:1 was the "standard" dilution--mebbe that was just the Silogram stuff (Brooklyn, NY) that we used to use. Valcool specifies 15:1 to 25:1 on their label. The dilutions supposedly correspond to light-duty, heavy-duty use.

But the plot thickens:

So now, I just got off the phone w/ Rustlick, and man, the info these local suppliers have is way off--no surprise, eh? The WS5050 supports 15:1, 20:1, mebbe 25:1 for light cutting of aluminum. Has rust stuff/bacteria stuff in it, altho not for rarely-used tanks w/ lots of tramp oil on top. The rustlick guy said 8:1 and 35:1 is impossible for their WS5050. Also, the rustlick label gives the refractometer data for various dilutions.

So apropo of previous threads on solubles and refractometers, how does one

*know* what the right dilution is, for a product that has fairly wide ranges?

Apropo of my earlier assertion of sol.oil's digestibility, Valcool contains amines, and the label says def'ly do not ingest it. May indeed be digestible, but still not good in coffee...

Also, the con. Valcool is, according to the label, perty dicey stuff, a "primary" irritant of skin and eyes.

Has anyone used or have an opinion on Rustlick, distributed by Turpin?

Two diff local suppliers carry *only* Rustlick in-house! Traverse tools in Queens, and Westchester Tools, in, of all places Yankas--cheaper too: $20/gal, $83/5 gal. Traverse is apparently a Fortune 500 wannabee, while West. tools is smaller, but has/can get lots of stuff, perty cheap, nice place. I think Traverse recently put up 2" thick Lexan, like what banks have. Gimmeafuknbreak...

---------------------------- Mr. P.V.'d formerly Droll Troll

Reply to
Proctologically Violated©®
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Oh yeah, I was also surprised that this Rustlick company makes an additive for

*regular oil*, as well, in a kind of expensive 10:1 ratio. Not sure what it does, but some might be interested in this for their own applications. Don't have the Rustlick distributor # handy this minute, but iffin anyone's dyin fer this info, email me for the #.
Reply to
Proctologically Violated©®

PV,

I'm pretty sure most any of em are gonna burn your eyes.

I use Valcool Aerotech HD. Works great for aluminum, and pretty good for SST. You don't want to tap steel with though. I think I pay $65.00 for 5gal.

It doesn't Irritate your skin, and doesn't get smelly if you use DI or distilled water.

Regards

Mark

Reply to
MM

Cliff,

Cites ???

My own shop, believe it or not, don't really care.

Mark

Reply to
MM

Reply to
Proctologically Violated©®

Only place I've seen Rustlick used very much is in bandsaws ....

Reply to
hamei

PV,

"> The distillation process is likely a very good sterilization process

Not a bad idea, you can buy a small UV water sterilization tube for a hundred bucks or so. Put a small bypass on the pump and circulate the coolant through it. You'd have to know how (or even if) your particular coolant will react with UV.

Aireating with ozone will also kill bacteria, but the extra supercharged oxygen will probably rust the cast iron right through epoxy based paint.

Regards

Mark

Reply to
Mark Mossberg

Inneresting factoid as to why a g-d sterilization tube should cost $100. This is because ALL regular glass/plastics are *inherently opaque to UV*, and you have to stand on yer optical ear to be able to pass UV--traditionally through quartz-glass, and lately thru specially engineered (read: expensive) plastics.

Now, the fukn Manhattan yuppies don't know this, even tho they think they know everygoddammthing, and thus willingly pay their local ripoff PearleVision optometrist ANOTHER $100 or so for special UV-protective fukn coatings on an already outrageous $400 pair of sunglasses, unaware that the lense itself is *already* inherently "black" to UV.

Btw, this is a standing joke among optometrists, taking the (m)asses for their UV-coating ride, equivalent to the $600 car dealers try to nab you for Scotch-guarding yer seats w/ 15c worth of 'Guard, and $1.50 worth of spray-on under-coating.

But it's all worth it, cuz now in addition to blowing all their goddamm income on rent for the privilege of a 400 sq ft Manhatten address--and Manhattan-priced coke--they now look quite cool in those $500 EXTRA UV-resistant shades--in Manhattan, at night, of course.

Some people get PV'd, and just don't even know it. Mebbe in Manhattan it's called a "colonic". New Age, donchaknow.

They should move to Yankas where the rent--and coke--is much more reasonable. And where 99c stores abound, w/ really neat 99c UV-resistant shades.

Oh, if the fatty-acid-like compounds in sol soil are "saturated", as opposed "unsaturated" (just like in food), proly the UV won't affect it. But, w/ various additives, can't say f'sure.

Inneresting point about the ozone.

---------------------------- Mr. P.V.'d formerly Droll Troll

Reply to
Proctologically Violated©®

I use the rustlick ws 5050 I cut it 15 to 1 on the cncs and 30 to 1 on the grinders . I cut mostly alum. Never had a problem with smell .I change it every apout twice a year. I have tried others but I like the rustlick 5050 the best.

Reply to
tim

Cliff wrote in news:l2ad31p1k0mf1a1shkpa2vlm9usi683pp0@

4ax.com:

Minerals in the water can increase the rate at which certain bacteria and fungi grow, using DI water eliminates the minerals. Deionized water helps prevent corrosion and build up of mineral deposits as well, and it's easier to maintain the proper Ph level with DI water. If you buy your coolant premixed from the manufacturer, they will use DI water. So what is it exactly that you have against using DI water Cliff?

Dan

Reply to
Dan Murphy

Good points. Just to observe that what is true of DI is "true-er" of distilled, as the product of distillation is near-absolute pure, while the processes used in DI necessarily leave some residual, depending on the degrees to which the DI processes are applied--mainly filtration, osmosis, binding/precipitation agents. But, even "cheap" DI is certainly more than good enough--suff'ly "soft water" is in itself a great great improvement over "hard" waters.

So the Rustlick guy actually visited my machining hovel today. Gave me literally a milk-crate full of literature on all kinds of shit. Hope I haven't made a pact w/ the devil! But, he gave me a very good idea, and a freebie to come in the mail: Since I haven't filled up the tank yet, and since the goddamm machine hasn't been cleaned in nigh-on 8 years, he suggested a thorough washout w/ their kleen sumpn or other (the freebie), run it through the centrifugal, locklines, etc. He said it will help a lot in the long run. 'Course, I think when he SAW the machine, he was just being polite, and proly wanted to say, Goodgawd, this machine is a hygienic disgrace!

Where have I heard that before?????

Bath time.

Reply to
Proctologically Violated©®

PV,

A friend of mine builds water treatment for rich folks houses, makes good money too, here in so CAL.

We're working together on a health related project that involves ultra pure water. He uses these pass-thru UV treatment tubes. Pretty much a cylinder with a pipe fitting on each end and an electrical connection on the side.

Maybe $100.00 was a bit low, but I know he doesn't pay much for em. I can certainly find out.

Mark

Reply to
MM

PV, if'n it makes any diff, we be usin' ValCool for a few years now on our Fadals. We be milling mostly alumineeum and stainless, and I really don't have any complaints. It's not too expensive, and I actually use it in my lathes as well. We jest mix it up a little heavier for the hardened 440. However, sometimes we have some small tapping, so we dip the tap in a can of earl jest before the tap cycle.

moT

Reply to
Tom Accuosti

| They should move to Yankas where the rent--and coke--is much more | reasonable. | And where 99c stores abound, w/ really neat 99c UV-resistant shades.

I got me a pair o' them cheep shades on my last trip to Noo Yawk - managed to keep them for 3 years now and they still ain't broken.

moT

Reply to
Tom Accuosti

"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@rcn.net:

Only thing is, with soluble oil anyway, is that the coolant will foam more with soft water. Especially if your using a high pressure pump. The coolant companies have additives that help but in a pinch fabric softener will work.

Dan

Reply to
Dan Murphy

Cliff wrote in news:8bse31prog7spp0bqrf6finql8tihh8c44@

4ax.com:

Well now you know better.

Dan

Reply to
Dan Murphy

Can you get either Hangsterfers or Castrol Syntilo back there? I have had great results with either. If you can, I'll dig for the actual product numbers.

ca

Reply to
clay

I do the "Snot Test". Keep adding the soluble oil until it feels like "snot" between your fingertips.

Reply to
Bill Roberto

Of the dozen or so coolants I have experience with Castrol Saftey 65 has been the best. Like Syntillo 9913 but with rust inhibitors built in. But MR P.V. is gonna feel pv'ed when he sees the price to have it shipped in. $285 for 10gal PLUS $45 or so UPS from 60 miles away put it over 30 dollars a gal.

Never a Stink, even in a machine that sat for 2 months. Gets stronger as the water evaps so you can just add water sometimes. Immediately made tools more resistant to loading up in Aluminum. (4-7 on the refractometer) I use DI water with it. I use 9913 in the lathe because it is clear. Saftey 65 is Blue.

-- Ken

"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits."

Reply to
Cyberkut

Then check it with the refractometer and go up a point or 2 for "safety margin".

-- Ken

"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits."

Reply to
Cyberkut

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