buried conduit repair

I had a little accident with the auger on the tractor. I tore into a 1

1/4" pvc conduit carrying the 220V 100A service from the main service panel to the garage. I would think that there would be a product designed to clamp around the undamaged ends of the conduit (watertight of course) and provide room inside to do cable splicing. After an hour of so of googeling, no luck finding such a beast.

Any idea if such a thing is made and where to order, or other methods of repair? I thought about a PVC junction box, putting fittings on the ends of the conduit to attach to the box, but haven't had much luck in finding boxes either. I would have though Grainger would have something that basic, but no luck in their catalog.

Bob

Reply to
Robert Reimiller
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Your going to need to get a concrete or plastic junction box. You could use a valve box for sprinklers like what the home centers sell. All junction boxes must be accessible. You will end up with the cover showing on the surface. Which may or may not be an issue. Also you have to consider if your going to drive over the box cover. There are j-boxes made for light and heavy traffic. They will have steel covers. I have not bought one in ages so I will not speculate on cost. Call a electrical wholesaler.

As for the water proof part you will have to make the splices water proof. The conduit can be filled with foam made by 3M but you will never pull the wires out or pull new in. I suggest you use a hydraulic crimper to do the splicing. You can buy waterproof splicing kits from 3M or Raychem. Probably other manufactures these I have used in the past. Everything I have used was medium voltage, I know they make low voltage kits as well. Guessing $45 each splice

If your interested in replacing the wire then you could buy an pvc expansion joint for the installation. Glues right on to the pipe and then expands to a set distance. I have not used them for years so check with an electrical wholesaler for exact dimensions.

Reply to
Zathera

Something like this?

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Bob Weiss N2IXK

Reply to
Bob Weiss

Splicing in that would be a violation. Used those before, pretty cool actually if the wiring is not hurt.

Reply to
Zathera

Why do you think the conduit is a dry location? In fact underground conduits are considered wet locations. Are you planning on pulling the conductors out to repair this? If so just cut out the bad section and use repair couplings (the kind without a shoulder inside). Slide the couplings over the cut ends, fit another piece of conduit where you cut the bad piece out, glue it up and slide the repair couplings over the joints. If you just want to seal it up you could wrap some U/L duct tape (for the purists) around the bad spot and pour some concrete around it.

Reply to
Gfretwell

Try this

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you can wait or don't want to, Splice in a section of 1-1/4" as a repair and the cover it all with a piece of 1-1/2" Schedule 80 PVC as a sleeve. Saw it length wise, clamp it over the The 1-1/4" sch 40. Glue and seal it with some RTV silicone and stainlees steel radiator clamps.

Reply to
B J Conner

Zathera,

What would it be in violation of? Feel free to quote the National Electric Safety Code.

Regards,

John Phillips

Reply to
John Phillips

Bob

There are underwater splice boxes and the like. We used them occassionally. Try

3M. I think they made the ones we used. Bob AZ
Reply to
RWatson767

Just throw some duct tape on it :-)

Reply to
fishbulb

As long as the wires and jacket insulation is intact, cutting a 1-1/2" Schedule 80 PVC length-wise to use as a sleeve is a solution. (For strength the longer the sleeve overlapps the good section the better.) You can glue the sleeve in place with PVC cement. Make sure you clean the overlap area to be patched thoroughly with the PVC primer. Don't forget to glue the sleeves seams together. To hold the sleeve in place until the cement sets-up use bailing wire. If you wish you can also cover it with Duct Tape. (Seriously! no joke!)

If the wires jacket insulation has a minor tear, without any damage to the conducting wires inside, use a GOOD known brand of electrical tape and/or rubber splicing tape to cover.

Deron B

Reply to
Deron

Exactly. If I don't have to do any splicing (I haven't excavated enough yet to tell) this looks ideal, thanks.

Reply to
Robert Reimiller

I'm in no hurry, so assuming I don't need room for splices and EPR is reasonable in it's ordering procedures, I'll go that way. Thanks for the "backup" idea :)

Reply to
Robert Reimiller

In article , snipped-for-privacy@certsoft.com says... | Exactly. If I don't have to do any splicing (I haven't excavated enough | yet to tell) this looks ideal, thanks. | |

I don't know what the regulations might be in the US, but in the UK you can buy underground cable splicing kits made by 3M. They are comprised of a clear plastic two part former, with a plastic bag of what seems to be some sort epoxy resin. The bag is divided in two parts by a clamp until needed.

The joint is made, the two halves of the former are clamped around the joint, then the epoxy mixed in the bag. Once ready you pour this into a hole in the top of the former. I suggest this type of joint might solve your problem and does not require an access/inspection hole to be built.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

Called 'ScotchCast'

Reply to
Chris Oates

And I thought Scotchcast was only for broken arms. :-)

Reply to
BG

I thought it was only for underground splices till I checked 3M products list.

Reply to
Chris Oates

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