| Bottom posters will never understand that principle if they don't understand | top posting logic.
Top posting logic is nothing more than making a comment, then sending another copy of the whole previous comment which can be seen by going up by one. It is just a waste of bandwidth. It is better to just not include anything at all but just your comment. Only morons can't go back and read the comment you are referring to.
Bottom posting logic is about isolating specific points in a previous comment that are particularly being commented on. Then it makes sense to include some .... but generally not all of ... the previous posting.
If you have a specific _part_ of someone else's posted comment that you want to comment on, copy in THAT PART alone, and then give your comment. Don't forget to include naming who said the included part. Otherwise just followingup with your comments by themselves. SMALLER postings are easier to read. Keeping the amount included from previous to an absolute minimum is the best way.
YOUR words need to begin within the screen size. And screen sizes do vary between different people (mine leaves 55 lines at 120 columns for viewing the content). If you can't get the start of your words within the first screen, it is likely to be skipped.
LED's lend themselves to use anywhere and everywhere. When the interior decorators and architects discover them, we will see some very creative uses for them. Instead of large lights that light up 800 cubic feet of space, we may see little clusters of LED's in places we never would have thought of.
CF and incandescent bulbs waste a large percentage of their lumens right around ground zero. Even a 25w CF light is way too bright for human use within 3 feet or more of the tube. That's ~50 cubic feet of the most intensely lit area just wasted. Cleverly utilized LED's may eliminate most of the bright spots some day, and bring bottom line cost close to CF's. Then too, LED's are in their infancy. There will probably be a couple of major improvements in LED technology in the coming 5 years that we can't even imagine today.
Don't pay any attention to me. I think we can do better than 30-120 year-old light bulb technology, and I'm probably too optimistic about LED's. :)
In my bedroom I have a 220 V 60 W halogen light that I use for more than a year.The 220 V halogen lamps are a recent discovery, and I think are a good alternative to normal incadescent lamps, which I think are excellent for most lighting conditions.We have here this german sockets, they are called Schuko (from Schutz Kontakt, protected contact, which unlike the three pronged ones are unlikely for someone to touch a live contact) but generally in Europe there are no polarized sockets with the exception of industrial applications, for 4-pole or 5-pole three-phase polarized receptacles and plugs.In my garden I use a 42 volt transformer and special GE lamps, incadescent of course.
-- Tzortzakakis Dimitrios major in electrical engineering, freelance electrician FH von Iraklion-Kreta, freiberuflicher Elektriker dimtzort AT otenet DOT gr Ï Ýãñáøå óôï ìÞíõìá news: snipped-for-privacy@news3.newsguy.com...
I can't pull up the actual charts from this account, but as a general rule, incandescent lamps are less efficient, as in lumens per watt, at lower power ratings.
In other words, you'll get more lumens (and less immediate wasted heat) from a 150 watt lamp than you will from two 75 watt ones.
For whoever said "Ohms Law", you win the prize. It has nothing to do with corporate greed, it has to do with Ohms Law.
The utility power line suffers line drop just like any other conducter. To compensate for this, the utility uses voltage regulators, all of which have load compensation built into them.
Consider the scenario. At 4 o'clock in the morning at 70 degrees there is little load on the line. So the guy that lives right next to the substation has about the same voltage as the guy 15 miles out on the end of the line. But as the day gets hotter and the load increases, you get a voltage drop in the line. If you maintain a 120 volt limit for the guy right nest to the sub, the guy at the end might be douwn to 110v.
So what EVERY UTILITY IN THE COUNTRY does is utilize the load compensation feature of the voltage regulator. What it does is automatically boosts the voltage according to current. If calibrated properly, the above scenario would end up with the guy next to the sub getting 125v, the guy at the end getting 115v, and the happy individual in the middle getting the illustrious 120v. Everybody is within about plus or minus 5%.
In the real world, nothing is perfect. Most electrical devices are rated at plus or minus 10% voltage, so the utilities try to set the regulators not to exceed this. Typically you might see 127 or 128 near the substation, and 115 or so at the end.
Since many lines are quite long, there may be several regulators cascaded down the line, so you may not have to be "right next to the substation" to have slightly high voltage.
As this is my first post, I have no idea if it will go at the top or the bottom, so I assume whichever happens, I will be vilified by at least half of the people reading this. Personally I'm amazed at the "quality" of the posts here.
Pure efficiency rated by watts to lumens is not really significant. If you can live with less lumens (and watts) you will save money. If you make up with the lower light by turning on more lights you won't save money
You haven't seen a LED of any size. A luxeon star requires a good heat sink or it will fry it's self. They have the best efficiency of any white LED, but they still don't match fluorescents lights..
LED lights usually run 5 lumen/watt, for the normal ones to 25 lumen/watt for the big $$$ ones. (Some of the newest $$$$ white LED's are close to 35 lumen watt.)
Most incandescent lights runs about 10 to 25 lumen/watt. (10W vacuum to 400W halogen ) So, unless you are using the most modern, and expensive LED, your light will produce about the same amount of heat, for the same amount of light that an incandescent will produce. The only type of incandescent a LED can replace with good savings is a flashlight bulb. They usually run 0.5 to 5 lumen/watt
Mercury vapor lights run from 35 lumen per watt for 50W lights, up to 60 lumens per watt for 1000W lights. It's low end is the top end of an LED's range.
Metal halide runs from 50 lumens-watt for 50W slow start to 125 lumen/watt for instant start 1000W+ lights
Fluorescent lights usually runs around 60 to 100 lumen/watt. (Some high output fluorescent lights are up to 150+ lumen watt.) More than four times the light than LED's make per watt.
High pressure sodium runs about 76 lumens/watt for 50W to 150 lumens per watt for 1000W.
Low pressure sodium runs about 100 lumens per watt to 175 lumens per watt.
You are twisting my words. He mentioned using multiple low wattage lights instead of one big light. If you don't need the light produced by that one big light, then you should use a smaller light. But you shouldn't use multiple smaller lights to replace the brightness of one big one.
Standard halide light sizes 50,70,100,150,175,250,400,1000
The local home depot, menards, and lowes stocks all sizes. From 50W, to
1000W
If your local hardware store doesn't have them, find a store that does.
There is two types of Metal halide lights. The slow start, which has a starting system basically identical to mercury vapor lights, with same voltages and everything. That is the original type of metal halide light. It is basically identical in construction to a mercury vapor light, but with the added halides in the arc tube. Starting voltages are around 200V to 300V and running voltage is around 100V. They are so close than you can sometimes put a metal halide bulb in a mercury vapor fixture and it will work. Bulb life may suck though.
The second type is the instant start with no starting electrodes in the arc tube. It basically relies on an electronic starter to produce a 1 to 4KV voltage spike to initiate the ark, and then the ark voltage drops down to
100 or so volts.
The only downside of metal halide light is their life span. A mercury vapor bulb usually has a reliable life span of 10+ years. Metal halide lights, even though they are basically the same construction, have a usable life of only about 2 years. The added halides deteriorate the arc tube quicker. If you look at an old metal halide light, the ark tube will be solid black. And that blackening blocks so much light, that the bulb basically has to be replaced.
Metal halide lights have the same quartz glass ark tube that mercury vapor lights have.
If you are thinking of solid crystal quartz ark tubes, then you are thinking of high/low pressure sodium lights. They are the types of high energy discharge light that uses solid quartz ark tubes.
| Pure efficiency rated by watts to lumens is not really significant. If | you can live with less lumens (and watts) you will save money. If you | make up with the lower light by turning on more lights you won't save | money
My bathroon light/heater/vent combo has a nigh-light feature on a 4th switch. It currently has a 4 watt C-7 style white bulb in it. It is sufficient light for me to sit and read a magazine. I don't use the main light unless I am showering, or cleaning the room.
Basically, I am a "low light person". I often go around with no light at all, as I am doing now (the CRT screen provides plenty of illumination).
I did it again didn't I. My dyslexic tendencies showing through again.
Once in a while, I switch a letter in a common word, with another like sounding one, or leave a few out.. I can look right at it, and I don't even see the difference until after a few minutes.. The first part of a paragraph has arc, then I transition to ark.
On Fri, 01 Jul 2005 06:59:11 GMT, "N9WOS" Gave us:
But... but... that is only *mild* dyslexia.. Instead of switching the placement of two letters within the same word, you switched the entire word by replacing a single letter. :-]
Well, one of our ancestors was on the ARK because of this guy, if he wasn't careful he may have received an ARC because of the sky...
Old greek proverb:no talking about appetite.If you like it, you can have it!
-- Tzortzakakis Dimitrios major in electrical engineering, freelance electrician FH von Iraklion-Kreta, freiberuflicher Elektriker dimtzort AT otenet DOT gr Ï Ýãñáøå óôï ìÞíõìá news: snipped-for-privacy@news3.newsguy.com...
I heat my house with electricity, consequently during winter months any lamp that I used has 100% of efficiency. Incandescent lights are a dime a dozen so I give preference to incandescent lights when heat is desired. During that period I am also very " wasteful" with light in order to save energy. If the thermostat for the house is set to a low temperature and the light " travels" with the occupants I believe that I am saving energy. It's like being on the sun on a Winter day. The system can be made automatic by the use of "presence detectors".
It seems, that for me, for a certain amount of time, a word or set of words will change spelling. I can type a paragraph, read it, and everything looks fine. Then a few minutes later, I look at it and go, "How the hell did I make that typo?" Then I look on through the paragraph and find the typo repeated over and over again!!!!!!!!
I have made it a habit to look for mix-ups like that, but I can go over the sentence with a fine tooth comb, and nothing will look out of place, until a little time has passed, and my brain stops crossing, mixing up, or changing the spelling of a few words. Then I can just look at the sentence in passing, and go "Crap, that's not right."
I will see "peace" and "piece" interchanged. I will see "write" and "right" interchanged. I will see "know" and "no" interchanged.
It is always just a couple letters at maximum, and the words always sound the same.
Think of posting a large post for thousands to read, and then finding out that I use "no" every time I should have used "know". "I no it will not work"
Like the reply I posted. I used "ark" instead of "arc". I would say that if I was talking about Noah's ark about that time, I would have probably been talking about "Noah's arc"
A little while ago I posted something about satellites, and I used "arch" every time I mentioned the satellite "arc". I found that kinda odd.. Normally I will leave stuff out, or mix stuff, not put letters in.
When I am mixing up a word, it doesn't affect my reading ability at all. I have read thousands of books, and I have never had any problem with reading. It only affects any word I type, or write down. I can read the normal spelling of a word right beside my crossed spelling and I don't notice the difference. I can be copying something verbatim, and everywhere I see "piece", I will type or write "peace" and every thing looks perfectly fine!!!!!!!
I can look at page after page of schematics, or computer code, and draw out page after page of schematics, and computer code, and I never make any mistakes. Anything that doesn't involve words in a spoken sentence, and I am fine. But if I have a simple sentence, I can't see the obvious fact that I used "no" instead of "know". I even make mix-ups in the in line comments in the computer code, but I never mix up the code that the comment is referring to.
Like this post here. I caught myself trying to use the word "reed" instead of "read" repeatedly. I know perfectly well that a "reed" is a wooden device used in wood wind instruments. But when i wanted to write "I can type a paragraph, read it, and everything looks fine" I wrote "reed it" It became obvious though, when the spell checker kept complaining about the fact that "reeding" was not a real word. "it doesn't affect my reeding ability."
You don't mention where you are, or how cold it is in winter time. Heating with resistance heating can be very expensive. Yes, in your situation the heat generated by incandescent lamps isn't a 'waste' if you would just have to replace that heat with your electric baseboard/furnace instead.
Depending on your climate, you could save a *lot* of money by switching to another form of heating. Fossil fuel (NG or propane) can be much cheaper. In the right climate, an air-source heat pump can also save a lot of money.
Your statements about the waste heat from lighting not really being a 'waste' are true, but only if you use resistance heating. And it is only true during the heating season.
Fluorescent lights usually runs around 60 to 100 lumen/watt. (Some high output fluorescent lights are up to 105+ lumen watt.) Three times the light that LED's make per watt.
most people have the lights up high, sooo, the heat is up high. I would then think 'heating" with light bulbs is "wasteful" with regards to even heat, unless you have fans circulating the air, which add to energy consumption...
The lifetime of a baseboard heater is many times an incandescent light bulb. You do not save an iota of energy, but pay more for that energy as your "incandescent heater" breaks down more often than a baseboard heater.
Well, you save energy by setting a low temp on your thermostat :) But you lose money by "heating' with your light bulbs, in my humble opinion.
Not quite, the sunlight is free, the light from your bulb is not...
Which adds to the cost of the system. If your heating was from an energy source cheaper than electricity, switching off lights by detectors should eventually pay for the cost of the detectors.
each situation is different with many variables. But I think your belief that you save money by heating with incandescent light bulbs is flawed.
What's up with the Sylvania daylight 13w CFs??? None of the Lowes in the Daytona Beach area seem to have them. Have any of you noticed a diminished supply of them in your area? Just curious.
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