| Could be. They are the same lug in the entrance panel. I guess | you can call it a neutral, since it is carrying current. ;-) It's | bonded to the case though. ...as my MIL found out.
An entrance panel might do that. But there should be separate neutral and ground bus bars, just connected together in the entrance panel and kept separate in subpanels.
|> Are you talking about a NEMA 6-30R or a NEMA 10-30R? I'm talking about |> the 10-30R. | | Not sure. I've only seen the thing twice (when I bought it and | when I moved).
Grab this file and view the dimensions:
| I didn't say you did. My point was that a 240V motor, given the | volume of driers sold, shouldn't be any more expensive than a | 120V motor. I have no clue why they use a 120V motor. Seems | pretty stupid to me, but there must be a reason.
A motor can be made cheaper if it's windings are at a fixed voltage and there is no option to rewire to a higher voltage, as would be the case if the windings were paired with 4 leads each. Since instead of a versatile motor, you have to make separate ones for each voltage. Given the massive market scale for 120 volt versions (for whatever reason, but perhaps due to it being used for other appliances, too), the 240 volt version will cost more because of the higher cost to inventory compared to sales volume. Even if a single voltage motor over a dual voltage one saves only $0.25, manufacturers will do such things.
|> Almost nothing needs a particular voltage. The need is for some |> amount of power (real or reactive as the case may be). For things |> as small as a bed lamp, alarm clock, or cell-phone charger, 240 |> volts offers virtually no advantage. | | Sure, my point is that most rooms have nothing in them that takes | any significant power, so 120V is good enough. Kitchens, | perhaps.
I'll still be putting a 6-20R or two in most rooms of my future house. The major room that won't have them is the bathroom (even though hair driers pull a power level that really should use 240 volts). I have seen countertop microwave ovens that use 240 volts, but never a hair dryer. Usually they are wired on a dedicated circuit, and for the planned one, it will get one. All the 6-20R's in the kitchen will be GFCI protected at the subpanel adjacent to the kitchen, as will the
5-20R's. Both will have 120 volts to ground, which is the biggest risk in a kitchen or other wet area.
|> My suggestion for no neutral as a power configuration is more about |> getting things on a singular standard voltage, and doing so in a |> well balanced way, with a minimal ground potential. It's not that |> things like bed lamp, alarm clock, or cell-phone charger need 240 |> volts, but rather, if they an everything else used 240 volts, then |> the wiring would be simpler, and the ground potential would still |> only be 120 volts (139 volts for three phase). In Europe, the 230 |> volt standard is between line and neutral/ground. So the ground |> potential is the full amount. | | I don't see many appliances in the home that need higher power | than can be delivered now at 120V. AC units, sure, but they | usually have dedicated circuits. I have a small window unit, but | it works fine off 120V too.
Sure, many things available that use 240 volts can also use 120 volts. But I prefer to use them at 240 volts regardless. The only things that I would be using at 120 volts are those that do not have any 240 volt versions (which is most things).
|> Eliminating the neutral leaves only one voltage, the line to line |> voltage. Making the voltage higher means less current and even less |> I^2*R losses in the wiring. | | Sure, but I don't see this as a significant issue in a | residential dwelling.
We see things differently.
| The advantage of the system as it stands is that I can use 120V | for small things and glue two together for the biggies. That's | about as simple as it gets.
But if the system had always been just 240 volt, would you really have thought "Gee, if only I could have a current carrying conductor back to the grounded center tap, I could run things on 120 volts, even though I would now have double the current and no less risk of ground shock".
BTW, shared neutral wiring effectively gets you the same benefit of less current for a given total (and balanced) load. Two 60 watt lights with one on each pole of a shared neutral 3-wire circuit will draw a total of
0.5 amps, the same as a 120 watt 240 volt light would. But to get that advantage you also have to have the risk of a shared neutral circuit. But that is a viable option with a 2-pole circuit breaker that ensures both poles are cut off if either overloads. But I don't plan to do any shared neutrals.