So after my last post about those gnarly lines running along my print, I finally tracked down what was going on. The drier was doing its job fine, the problem was me. I'd been pulling the spool out, running a print, then shoving it straight back into a regular plastic bag between sessions. basially undoing all the drying every single time. What I did instead: I printed straight from the drier box with the filament feeding through the little port on top. Left it in there overnight at the drying temp before I even started. The difference on the next print was night and day. Those stringy rough patches along the thin sections pretty much vanished, and the surface came out smooth enough that I acutally stopped and checked the nozzle wasn't dragging.
Only thing left is a faint seam scar here and there, which I'm guessing is a retraction thing to sort out another day. For now I'm just happy the filament was the culprit and not something scarier like a half-clogged hotend.