Grandad's safe - vintage and paint ?

Hello all,

I haven't been around here for a bit, used to lurk here a while back - been distracted onto other things lately. I have grandad's ('smith) safe after dad ('smith) passed in 2001. I don't need to open or defeat it. I had been planning to paint is since we moved it. Well it was sunny this weekend, I just started to coat the top - then kinda' did most of the thing (door and bottom TBD).

A couple of questions to discuss with the group.

  1. Rough vintage of the thing
  2. Probability of lead based paint being in the old coatings??

I can host some pictures somewhere if there are details that might help. No name visible on the dial or safe anywhere. Certainly pre WWII, possibly prior to the 1920's. Roughly 32"w x 36"d x 48"h, door about 2'x3'. Steel exterior and casters. about 1,000 lbs (rough guess) serial number(?) faintly visible stamped on "L" handle next to dial. Probably would have been taken by grandpa in trade, salvaged, or maybe bought used in Detroit from around 1909-10 on? Inner door in nice shape, outer door back in rougher shape and shows signs of several removals. Black paint on inner panels, gold stripe around inside door. Exterior rusty, olive drab maybe a few shades darker than army green, there was a gold stripe outline of the door outside. No markings on the lock pacs that I recall, I can take a better look at particular details that might help.

I avoided a lot of surface prep, because of my paint concerns, but I did end up wire brushing some surface rust on the back and around the caster legs - sort of got caught up in the project at hand. Haven't done the door yet, but I'm thinking of doing a better job on that. So I'm starting to wonder about the old paint again.

What do you think? Any particular items or details to be reported back with? Thanks, Fritz.

Reply to
Fritzer
Loading thread data ...

Several things. On finish issues assume that it is lead based paint. All you need to do is not eat or breathe the dust you sand off and not worry to much after that as you will be painting over the thing. Most of the mischief that is caused by lead paint is not on office equipment, it is on old houses in slum areas where little kids are ingesting the stuff. When you refinish the safe it is not necessary to strip it down to bare metal. If the paint that is on the box has stuck for over 60 years it is probably going to stay stuck and serves as a good base for subsequent layers of paint to stick to. Where the old paint has failed that is where you need to get the rust out and prime with a rust inhibiting primer that will also be compatible with the good old paint. A little filler on the dents and scratches and then apply the finish. Any old lead paint still on the safe is sealed and will cause no harm.

Since the safe has sentimental value, some ideas are to have a sign painter do a pinstripe and gold leaf job on the safe with something like dear old granddads locksmiths shop name and granddads name as proprietor under the trade name. I have seen things like this and they do look snazzy.

As to the brand, take some detail pictures like the dial handle and hinges. Also take a couple of shots at the inside of the door and the same showing the guts of the works. Identification on old safes can be tricky but sometimes you can get lucky with an ID.

Reply to
Roger Shoaf

Roger, thanks. I'll try some photo's of the items tonight. I had some adhesive vinyl graphics cut by a sign company for some lock and key display cases, here is a picture I had of the old letterhead - [URL=

formatting link
a test of the image hosting too.)

I was th> Several things. On finish issues assume that it is lead based paint. All

Reply to
Fritzer

[URL=
formatting link
(and a test of the image hosting too.)

Strange, your grandfather is in Detroit, names his business Cadillac and then does not choose to display a single car key on his card. Perhaps it was one of those "too much of a good thing" things.

Reply to
Roger Shoaf

Thanks again Roger, and here are a bunch of photo's, if anyone has additional information and opinions to contribute that would be great.

The shop was established in the basement of the family house - 5132 Cadillac Blvd, named for the early French explorer, then later nicked for the auto company. Lucky grandad didn't live on some worse sounding street. ;-) They did lots of automotive work. All in a day's pay - what about a $ 1.50 service call charge?

formatting link
Back to the safe - pretty rough shape, and there also was a serial number lightly stamped on the center of the dial - Any guesses to the ID or vintage? Recommended do's & dont's to restore the handle and dial as I move forward?

Door

formatting link
formatting link
formatting link
formatting link
back
formatting link
formatting link
formatting link
formatting link
formatting link
formatting link
These still inside from grandad
formatting link
And some vintage stuff from a couple of boxes saved:
formatting link
Thanks you for you time and effort, Regards to all, Fritz.

Reply to
Fritzer

Hi Group,

Work is progressing along on this project. I have just noticed that I appear to be missing most of the decorative hinge caps. They seem to thread in both the top and bottom of each hinge pair. I just have the one top cap shown in this picture:

formatting link
appears to be a standard 1/2" NC thread.

Any source for vintage or reproduction caps, or supply house would be helpful. If I can't match it up, a suitable set of four would be just great.

Thanks, Fritz.

Reply to
Fritzer

There are not a lot of these floating around looking for new homes. The good news is a machinist with a lathe can whip out some pretty close copies out of stainless and polish them to a high luster without too much problem.

Reply to
Roger Shoaf

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.