Lock Lubricant

How about a nice, back to basics discussion on the different types of lock
lubricant and which ones to use in different situations. I'm new to this
group and would like to know which lubricants are best in different lock
applications. There was a thread earlier that touched on the use of WD40 .
While I understand it isn't really a lubricant as much as a cleaner, after
the lock is clean, what lubricant?
My specific situation is with my '97 Toyota 4Runner. The key doesn't always
smoothly operate the ignition lock. I take the key out and turn it over and
sometimes that works, sometimes not. I normally use graphite for the
outside door locks and that seems to work, but I don't know about graphite
for the ignition lock. Similarly, my '96 Neon ignition lock was giving me
fits. Took out the cylinder and brought it to my local favorite locksmith
and he fixed it in a snap. Too bad I wasn't there to watch!
I've also heard that Toyota ignition locks don't like a lot of keys hanging
off the key ring while driving. Is that so? If so, why is that?
Paul.
Reply to
Paul Blomberg
Loading thread data ...
-- "Key"
different types of lock
I'm new to this
different lock
the use of WD40 .
a cleaner, after
formatting link

key doesn't always
and turn it over and
graphite for the
know about graphite
lock was giving me
favorite locksmith
watch!
may also be a problem with your '97 Toyota 4Runner
lot of keys hanging
is that?
the weight of too many keys on the ring pulls on the key and the key abnormally wears on the keyway. casusing slack in the keyway and then the key will not sit in the proper position to correctly line the wafers. over time, this also causes more wear/damage.
g'day
Reply to
Key
The first thing to address is the issue of why the lock is not working smoothly. Often it is not so much a lubrication problem but rather wear in the key.
While I personally like graphite, a toyota lock is not really the place for graphite as these locks are greased from the factory. A better choice would be a teflon spray like Tri-Flow. If you don't have that go ahead and give it a blast with WD-40. Try the key. If it still does not work properly wear is probable.
Reply to
Roger Shoaf
I use a wide assortment of lubricants. In keyholes (cylinders) I like graphite if it's dry like an office lock inside a building. Or a house door lock fairly well shielded.
As to car door locks, in NY State, we have plenty of wet and road salt, so I use oil based lubes, such as 30-weight. Graphite doesn't coat the lock to repel salt and moisture.
A few other applications get different lubes.
Reply to
Stormin Mormon
plus a side load on the lock plug, and those plugs are NOT made of too good a material, they wear easily...
graphite... vs 'other things'
need 2 small jars-baby food container comes to mind...
in one, place some POWDERED graphite.. a half teaspoon or so... in the other, place some powdered teflon-just for grins, and it IS available for locks..
in BOTH, cover with a quarter inch of water, and stir up the resulting solutions.. set in a nice sunny window, UNCOVERED, and let them dry out totally..
stick your finger in- is the graphite STILL a powder? how about the teflon?
part 2...
take jars outside, and clean out the jars, suggestion would be the spray brake drum cleaner.. which one loosens up and washes out?
--Shiva--
Reply to
--Shiva--
"Paul Blomberg" wrote in message:
Not knowing anything about auto locks except how to open some older cars with a slimjim, I am going to say it might be time to change the way you carry your keys... Have your car key on a ring by itself... The extra forces applied to the lock by having a lot of weight pulling down from a mass of keys wears the key down faster... I have seen some keys that people went out to get duplicated that could not get a working copy because the key was worn down...
Try getting a new set of car keys cut by code from a locksmith... It does make a difference... I made a key for one of my co-workers from code (it did take me three tries, but not bad considering how I had never made an auto key on a code machine before)... It was for a Chevy Blazer (10 cut, 4 depths)... It was the last remaining key that was itself a copy of a precceding copy, and then used for many years... I am just wondering how keys that are so worn they can not be copied (off by almost a whole depth in some cases) still work properly in the lock to begin with... Maybe someone could explain that to me (privately by e-mail if need be)...
With key rings and car ignition locks, less is better...
Evan the Maintenance Man
Reply to
Evan
It's true. I like it and so does Schlage. While I have other stuff in my slick arsenal, If I key up a lock and its dry inside it gets a dusting of that slick carbon. Never had a problem.
Reply to
Roger Shoaf
If I key up a lock and its dry inside it gets a dusting of
Rodger , You must have never had the pleasure of having the Maintaince Man ( sorry evan) give the locks a shot of "liquid lube" and make concrete out of graphite.
Give it a try WD40 + graphite = HARD SOLID MESS you will never use graphite again! I also like the way it gets
into your pores and won"t wash out. You are correct many factorys recommend graphite, those same factorys also recommend only qualified service people work on the locks. We all know that rarely happens!
On the other hand I spoke with an enginieer who said the Lubricity (spelling?) of graphite was second only to telflon as the molecules of graphite are actually round. Do the factorys recommend graphite over teflon powder because of cost?
Reply to
Keyman55
The other problem that commonly occurs with graphite is when people (frequently) fill the lock up with the stuff. Forget one squirt how about 1 bottle.
Reply to
Putyourspamhere
I had an after thought, Roger.. the stuff Schlage uses is maybe from what I have seen LARGE FLAKE stuff, as opposed to the really fine dust that is available OTC at the auto supply store.. --Shiva--
Reply to
--Shiva--
I once pulled a ball knob off a door for rekeying and it was - literally - almost _full_ of graphite. They wanted it rekeyed because the keys were hanging up. (Go figure)
Reply to
Bob DeWeese, CML
"Stormin Mormon" <cayoung61-#spamblock*-@hotmail.com> wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@uni-berlin.de...
what about the messey bulid-up. I have seen graphite make a mess when a lock is removed from the door. don't care for the stuff personally.
my2¢
Reply to
Key
Messy, yes. Buildup, no. I don't graphite locks while they are on the door -- too easy to blow through and fill the door with powder. I generally only use graphite while I've got the cylinder apart. sounds like someone in your area is pumping locks full of graphite while they are still on the door?
I have more problems with oil attracting dust.
Reply to
Stormin Mormon
"Stormin Mormon" <cayoung61-#spamblock*-@hotmail.com> wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@uni-berlin.de...
they
is
wasn't talking about "attracting dust". there is always a build-up with using graphite unless the old graphite is washed out before it is used again.
my2¢
Reply to
Key

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