Casting a modular aluminium flask from printed patterns

Oct 13, 2026 Last reply: 1 day ago 4 Replies
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What you end up with is a homemade foundry flask cast in aluminium from 3D printed modular patterns that slot together. The finished piece is two identical rectangular frames stacked one above the other, and the inside walls carry repeated vertical ribs. Because the patterns come apart, they can be rearranged and reused as needed.



The maker, Julian Makes, modelled the patterns in Fusion 360 and printed them in PLA on a kit-built Prusa at home. Going modular seems a smart call to me, since the printer bed is quite small. The lime green printed patterns sit alongside the cast aluminium sections they produced. Sections are joined with hex head bolts, washers and nyloc nuts, and the hardware list runs to 8 mm steel bolts, chandelier tubing with a 6.5 mm bore over a 6.5 mm steel rod, and threadlocker. Alignment pairs a pin and hole on one side with a pin and slot on the other.



The finishing work stands out. A green printed guide template was clamped over the corner flanges to mark hole centres, with scribed layout lines, then an automatic center punch and a drill press put the holes in, stepping pilot holes up to a final 9 mm. Cast surfaces were ground with an angle grinder and the corner joints filed by hand at 45 degrees. Four sides were bolted finger-tight to check corner alignment. One drill bit snapped along the way and was cleared out only after a delay.



This is a version 6.7 prototype, and it is not a finished story. The maker admits the flask could be flatter without fancy tools and that one pin is slightly wonky, and it has not been used yet. Version 6.8, with interlocking corner tabs, is untested, and the files were due out within a week or two. A bought flask at around £300 seemed small, and the stated aim is DIY fun rather than saving money.



Project by Julian Makes. Watch it on their YouTube channel:

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How were the bolt holes in the corner tabs actually marked out before drilling? I am curious whether the scribed layout lines and the clamped guide template did all the work, or whether the automatic center punch was what really set the positions on the cast flanges. Getting hole centres to line up across four separate castings seems like the hardest part of a build like this, so the marking method interests me more than the drilling itself.

The mixed alignment scheme looks clever to me: a pin and hole on one side with a pin and slot on the other. In my view a slot can absorb a little misalignment that a second hole could not, while still giving a positive location. The trade-off is likely some precision compared with two located pins, but given the corners were only checked finger-tight at assembly, that seems a fair balance for a hobby flask.

Since version 6.8 with the interlocking corner tabs is still untested, I would cast just one corner section with the new tabs before printing a full pattern set. That would show whether the interlocking corners hold their alignment through a pour without committing a whole frame of filament and metal to an unproven design. If the tabbed corner comes out true, the rest of the set could follow with confidence; if not, only one casting needs redoing.

The marking was done with a green printed guide template clamped onto the corner flanges, alongside scribed layout lines. An automatic center punch marked the spots, then the holes went in on a drill press, with pilot holes stepped up to a final diameter of 9 mm.

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