What Steve said, but recently bought a piece of flat ground 52100
from AdmiralSteel.com and instead of 1/8" it's .116" on on end and
.118" on the other. Turns out good for me that it's that way
The grinding marks on the 52100 are in the form of swirls BTW.
The thickness is very important to me since I mess with re-placing
pocket knife blades and springs and certain odd-ball sizes are
needed. I figure I can flat-file about as good as most but somehow
even using a micrometer etc the "homemade thickness" just doesn't
feel right after the pocket knife is all together. :/
CRA 1095 has a smoother finish than precision-ground O1 IME.
But I've gotten some 3/32" 1095 that's as low as .090", which again
worked out great for me. :)
CRA (cold rolled annealed) has a nicer finish than the HR (hot
rolled) and is what you'll want if any of the finished knife is
going to have some of the original surface left showing.
I recently got some hot rolled annealed 1095 and for me, and my
dislike of polished knife blades;) it's going to work out great.
All I -really- care about is-> edge taking and edge holding, ok?
Right here on this NG is where I learned so much about circular saw
blade steel. -0186 or "8670-modified"- That stuff has turned out to
be great stuff! ...and talk about some odd-ball thicknesses. ;)
Done made quite a bit of use of both those attributes already too. :)
One example is an old clunker 4 bladed scout-knife with a missing
spring, turned it into a 3 bladed "cattle knife".
Cattle knife = early 1870's
Stockman - early 1890's
"murkin" utility knife is a cross between the you're-a-peein utility
and the murkin cattle knife = 1900 and adopted by the Boy Scouts in
1911. -paraphrased from Levine's Guide
So a "scout knife" is like, new-fangled junk, or something. ;)
(didn't end up using all that's shown)
(I made the butt-spring for the original master blade from 1095)
(only replaced those two blades and they are .102" 8670-M)
(original double-ended-spring was made by Remington and is .100")
(original Remington black jigged phenolic plastic handle slabs)
(no brass or nickel-silver in that old 50's knife so I used baling
wire and W1 drill rod for pins)
(the original blade that I didn't re-heat-treat which leads to
a whole nuther thread ;)
Alvin in AZ (knife knut)
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