I want to be ready the next time a target of opportunity appears. What hardware will I need to tie down (for instance) a Bridgeport to a Ryder flatbed? I have been looking at the 10000 lb ratchet straps sold by the Borg, and perhaps four nylon basket slings to tie the ratchet straps to the machine. I have seen some marginal tiedown jobs on the road, and I admit to being obsessive with heavy stuff. While you are offering advice, what is the collective opinion of using a lift gate to lower a machine? I did it once (with a 36" bandsaw) and was not comfortable. What did I do wrong?
I like to put a forged eye bolt in the 5/8-11 hole on top of the ram, and run one strap straight sideways and through that hole and guitar-string tight. Then one more strap side/side going around the base (NOT the knee) pulling the mill forward, and another similar pulling it backwards. Chains are better if you have 'em.
Having disassembled this machine for rescraping, I would consider moving it in parts next time, using one of those $150 import hoists. You could do that with a pickup or van.
My "opportunity" rig is a 3/4 ton PU with a strong ladder rack. The limiting factor is the sheet metal bed - nothing sturdy to attach to on the sides, hard to get to the frame rails on the front. Anything over 500 lbs I always push to the front of the bed, where the base can be blocked with
2x4's that run the full width of the bed. Between that and tying off to the trailer hitch that pretty much handles the important axis of restraint.
I always carry four of the 1" ratchet straps and more non-ratchet straps, four lengths of good low-stretch rope, and keep dunnage (bunch of 2x4's) in the bed for blocking et. al. Also a tarp and bungee cords.
This isn't a great setup for a bridgeport, but it did handle a nice 3000 lb toolroom lathe I tripped over 3 years ago and was able to bring home on the spot. The rack is good for a half ton of long stock and the back half unbolts and can be removed without help for loading tall items.
The rack helps for tying down tall items, not sure if I'd trust it for a bridgeport.
I also carry 6' nylon slings, sometimes useful for lifting but haven't found much use tying down in the pickup bed.
With a trailer or flatbed it's much different - I suppose chain and load binders is by far the best choice. I don't have a trailer because it costs $75 to go anywhere with it, on account of living on an island accessed by ferry. The few times I have trailered stuff, the tools of choice were chain with load binders, and the same 6' slings for going around equipment with a more gentle touch than the chain. I keep short chain sections with round hooks instead of the narrow slot chain hooks, that is a safer way to connect to the slings and also sometimes can hook directly onto the equipment.
I don't like lift gates but then have never used one. Gantry at home and also a small forklift, the only issue is loading, that has yet to break any deal.
Interesting photos, and I'm glad it all worked out.
One not-so minor point, when chaining a b'port down like that, do NOT chain across the knee. By doing so all of the downforce from the binders is applied to the bronze elevating nut on the machine and those are known to strip out under situations like that.
In your case the chain across the base would have prevented disaster, but without that a good bump from the road while underway could have caused the machine to come completely uncorked off the trailer.
Jim
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Simply locking the gib spreads the force onto the dovetails and off the leadscrew.
And with about 2 sq in of shear area on a 1-1/4" screw, even the screw alone should handle quite a lot of force, "have been known" stories notwithstanding.
The pro riggers I know say "don't do that" they don't do it themselves. That's enough for me, in this case. YMMV as they say.
Jim
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If you have a wooden floored transport then nail or screw blocking right to the floor of the rig. When loading equipment in trucks we often nail blocking between the trailer sides and the feet of the machines. When hauling in my pickup I nail blocking so that it extends from side to side and lengthwise so that the base of the load is boxed in so that it cannot slide in any direction then tie off the top of the machine to prevent tipping. lg no neat sig line.
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