AliExpress experience?

On Mon, 26 Feb 2018 09:05:48 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"


OK.

I was amazed at my ten years on the Tundra battery, so you should be in awe of the 17 years. The battery, charging system, and user were all in sync, a very unusual occurrence.

Probably some sort of sleep mode for the CPU, eh? Nice.

I hear that. When I upgrade from the 2kw HF mod sine, it could be to one of these Taiwanese jobs: https://is.gd/n4nRNd 5kva 4000w 48V 230v Solar inverter off grid 80A MPPT solar LCD remote controller. and add at least 3kw more panels.
Or, when I'm rich and famous, hang a couple Powerwalls on 10kw of panels and call it good.

They mention the drawbacks of inverters, and in addition to LED bulbs of all shapes, I've been buying a few 12v items, like soldering iron, coffee cup immersion heaters, massive 160w car heaters ;), etc. Here are some others I'm finding: https://is.gd/RnBMEr hot water kettle https://is.gd/W1TVhu BB switch Still laughing at the last one.

A bit. You could buy a stable of panels and batteries for the price Xantrex wants for their stuff, too.
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wrote:

As batteries age they may require more than the normal vehicle charging voltage. http://shop.pkys.com/Battery-Equalization_ep_44.html
I turn up my LM350 charger until the current reads 0.5 - 1 Amp, being careful not to go too high and damage any electronics. Usually 15V is enough for a road vehicle battery that still has enough capacity to start, the U1R in my garden tractor which gets less use sometimes needs 17V.
After removing the vent caps I put clear packaging tape over the openings to control acid spatter. I can still see the electrolyte level and how much they are bubbling, or if one weak cell isn't when all the others are.
When the current falls below 1% of the Amp-hour capacity at >.0V I consider the charging complete. Those numbers vary somewhat among manufacturers.
I've been given "dead" batteries that an automatic charger could no longer charge, but which recovered well and lasted several years when charged once at higher voltage. They weren't completely cured, they still needed a somewhat higher charging voltage each time, and monthly attention to prevent or recover from the high resistance condition called sulfation.
I think this forced current, voltage-adaptive charging is the secret to long battery life.

I run a generator when I need a lot of power for a short time, like at meals. If not for the fridge's AC motor and 12A starting surge I could live with a 300W MSW inverter. The genny has a folding doghouse made from fireproof acoustic ceiling panels to quiet it and support corrugated roofing panels in wet weather. I should probably upgrade it to a more hurricane- and blizzard-proof model. -jsw
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Here is a good explanation: http://support.rollsbattery.com/support/solutions/articles/430-corrective-equalization-instructions " Eventually, the sulfate will cause a resistance to charge and a "false high voltage" reading will occur. The "false high voltage" is measured by the charge controller, which further lowers the charging current to maintain the voltage set point. This further increases the undercharge condition."
"6. Once the specific gravity begins to rise, the bank voltage will most likely drop, or the charging current will increase."
I've seen this on a battery that required 17V to initially force 50mA of current. As the battery recovered and its voltage fell below 15V the current rose to the limit of the LM350. It didn't harm my circuit but it needs to be considered.
-jsw
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On Tue, 27 Feb 2018 16:52:41 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"

MPPT, 12-72v battery bank.

Low and slow amperage. No reason to upgrade to an LM338?

Good tip.

How often do you check it?

Interesting. (Saving this post.)

It's amazing how much sound comes from the engine itself, rather than from the exhaust, and baffles reduce both significantly.

Indeed. Maybe go subterranean in a hillside with drain and a flat roof to muffle sound and defeat wind/snow?
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150v max PV,

I set my P20L solar controller to limit at the float voltage and never equalize. If the house batteries need it I'll take them outdoors and use a variable voltage charger. SLI31s are the largest batteries I can carry up and down stairs with one hand, the other free for the handrail or doorknob.

I think the order of LM338s I received was counterfeit. The limiting item is the 30V/3A current meter, which has much better voltage and current resolution than the 30V/10A model. I also use an LM317 that limits at 1.5A, and that is enough for the 105A-h SLI31s and everything smaller.

A battery could be left on that topping-off setting for days because the current is low.

Fiberglass pipe insulation over the muffler outlet barely changed the sound. The acoustic tile box should be enough to conceal it from thieves driving by. I can't hear it from the street if a car is within 1/4 mile.

I have a rock drill and a hillside in the right place, but not a blasting licence to cut in to it. This year's summer project is digging some exploratory holes and trenches.
-jsw
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On Thu, 1 Mar 2018 13:43:49 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"

Could weight be considered a negative in the LA chart of features?

So the cheap Chinese semiconductors are no good, or what? Why did you think they were counterfit? Low output? I haven't had the lid off my bench supply, a 0-30v, 0-5A current- limiting Chinese model, but I wonder what chip they use.

When you say "slow charge", you mean it, don't you?

"float"?

Yabbut, the bad guys have impeccable hearing and sense of smell. <sigh> >>>corrugated roofing panels in wet weather. I should probably upgrade

Oh, boo! That could have been =fun=.
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wrote:

Only if I can't carry it upstairs. They rarely move.

The printing matched Internet warnings, and one burned out too easily. The vendor refunded my money without any argument.

Replacing a month's self discharge doesn't take long. I can charge at 25A if necessary, or borrow a neighbor's 50A wheeled charger.

A somwhat higher voltage. Most charger setting recommendations only specify voltage. Inexpensive Volt+Amp meters like this now make current monitoring practical, so I use parameters from battery data sheets that include current values for charger designers. They allow higher voltage if the current and/or charging time is limited. https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-0-30V-0-10A-Red-Blue-Dual-LED-Digital-Voltmeter-Ammeter-Voltage-/321772149729

Other people' generators are louder.
I've never owned a chest-type freezer before and have to learn how to use it, like how much air space to leave, when/how to defrost and not letting things get stuck. I do have a Fluke thermocouple meter to measure temperatures around the compartment.
-jsw
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On Fri, 2 Mar 2018 18:57:20 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"

I bought some LM317s from China a while back. I'll go look for warnings on them, too.

That only means yours will be the last to be stolen. Criminals are nothing if not persistent when they sense a gold mine. They work so hard to avoid work, I swear.

That's good. I read that Danfoss catalog and was impressed at how much info they crammed in there. Wow!
When I read "isobutane", I was fascinated and had to find out what other refrigerants they were using now. R600 is nButane and R290 is propane, used by two of the compressors they make. ASHRAE refrigerant properties link within first message here: <https://www.researchgate.net/post/What_is_the_difference_between_R134a_and_R600a_Can_the_domestic_refrigerator_which_originally_used_R600a_being_change_to_R134a or https://is.gd/lpBUP3
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wrote:

This is what I'm doing with home-made metered voltage regulators that operate from solar panels. http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_with_a_power_supply
The LM350 and a 33.00V / 3.000A meter are a good match. The meter reads to my LM350's 4.5A limit, at least briefly. (Short URL; there are other vendors) (Amazon.com product link shortened)

Including the car they are in.

There are enough unstealable generators on concrete pads to blanket the area with omnidirectional engine noise. I think I can run mine for an hour or two at meal times and use the batteries between and overnight. That plan is based on bad weather more than theft risk. In good weather my 300W of solar panels may be enough.
A KAW on the Alpicool C20 predicts it using 0.4 KWH per day, for $2.20 a month as a -18C .freezer.
It ran 2:00 hours on a Whistler 'Mighty' Lithium jumpstarter that I can use for grocery shopping trips, on the deep cycle low battery voltage cutoff setting. The car battery setting cuts off at a higher voltage so the car will still be able to start.

I think the compressor may be a copy, it has an Alpicool label and the schematic is different. The blue metal-cased wattmeter recorded peak startup currents around 4~5A.
So far I'm happy with it as long as it doesn't break. The car has a 12V outlet in the back and tie-down eyes.to keep cargo from sliding, which the motor cover grills might not stand up to very well. The cover was dinged when I received it. The C20 seems more suited to the 'burbs than the boonies.
-jsw
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On Sat, 3 Mar 2018 08:57:00 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"

The driver may let off the thieves, and I have seen non-running, unlit cars drive past my house at night in the past. Pop the trash bag in the garbage can and then hear tire noise drifting by. Hmmm...

Yeah, that's good.

Not bad at all, but that's a pretty tiny box, only 0.7 c/f.

That's the pits. When I buy family packs of meat, I always try to bag each item separately and freeze them so they don't stick together. Otherwise, it =all= has to thaw to separate them.

Pray for good cooler/comp lifetime. Running watts w/ w/o comp?

Bad packing or bad handling before boxing? G'luck with it.
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wrote:

That it is, which is why I asked about using AliExpress to order a larger version than Amazon offers, and made a model to experiment with. I think the 6-7 days of food it holds plus the same in the fridge is enough. Time will tell.
Now that this one has run a while the evaporator tubes show as two lines of frost all the way around near the upper edge, so they do cool all four walls, and it's resting on the insulating foamcore footprint template from my model of it. I happened to have a wire grid the right size to raise the food slightly off the bottom and let cold air underneath.
The area of the bottom is about twice that of a Coleman Oscar. I was satisfied with them for long trips because they fit in the rear passenger footwells where they are within reach without stopping. One needs ice, the other has a thermoelectric "cooler" lid. The C20 will freeze ice packs for the Oscar.

Thanks, I'll try that.

I bought the small fridge second-hand in the 1980's so its doom could be near.

30-35W in Eco mode, <1 Watt at idle. On the high setting it pulled 45-50W.
-jsw
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On Sat, 3 Mar 2018 15:37:28 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"

Yup.

Good deal with the grid. If there were a flaw in the insulation, a piece of meat resting on the bottom could rot at that point and not be noticed until it was too late. I'd love to tour the plant where those are made.

There ya go.

Knock on wood.

That's amazingly little power draw. How cool will it run on Eco with the t-stat low?
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wrote:

I had noticed that food on the bottom of my 28F fridge wasn't quite frozen, so I bought a 2-for-$1 pack of wire racks and folded one to cover the bottom, with bubble wrap sandwiched inside. The thin 30-gauge thermocouple is very informative.

My Sprint 3G and 4G are down today and this dialup is too slow to find the photos I saw earlier of the Foshan Alpicool factory.

The loud squeaking when it started and stopped turned out to be from the electric skillet on top of it.

The lowest setting is -20C. I set it at -18C, the Euro standard, which is 0F. The thermocouple reads 5F ~ 10F at various places. It cycles on for 2-1/2 minutes, off for 5-1/2, at 60F room temperature. This summer I'll find out how well it likes roasting in a hot car, if it lasts that long.
My oldest, weakest SLI31 is powering it right now, recharged from the 100W roof array.
This morning I took it grocery shopping, powered by a Lithium jumpstarter in the shopping cart and the rear 12V outlet in the car. Five days of breakfast, lunch and supper fit in snugly. It's light and narrow enough to carry with one arm so I can open doors with the other.
-jsw
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Sprint problems: http://downdetector.com/status/sprint
https://alpicool.en.alibaba.com/company_profile.html?spm 700.8304367.coowfd0405.3.6c3e1c69fJeBcy
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On Mon, 5 Mar 2018 14:30:11 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"

Great value, those racks.

I'll have to look. I have whopping 5mbps DSL. Hmm, found a couple on Google, but not actual assy pics.

Oops. Fun to find, though, huh?

G'luck!

Ex-battery life?

I can just see the nightly Gnu Hamster news channel "Jim Wilkins was arrested today during an attempt to smuggle food out of grocery. The local bomb squad was called in to explode an unknown 'device'. Wilkins was thought to be attempting to cool the device with the frozen food so it wouldn't prematurely detonate." <ducking>
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wrote:

Habanitro sauce?
The clerk asked me where she could buy one.
I took the freezer in to see how much I could stuff into it, as I hadn't jammed in the more compressible empty boxes as tightly as possible. Usually I put cold food in soft-side insulated cooler bags in the shopping basket. They've told me I am the only customer who does even that much to keep food from thawing.
We are in the middle of a major snowstorm, over a foot of wet sticky snow that bent down the tree branches, though we didn't lose power. New Jersey (Ed) got twice as much.
I had the fridge and freezer on UPS power overnight. The DIY UPS for the DC-input freezer, a Radio Shack 13.8V 19A power supply charging a battery to 13.5V through a diode, ran at the rate of only $2.20 a month according to a KAWez. That PS reads 0.0W on the KAW without a load, <6W float-charging the battery and 36W with the compressor on.
The PS overloaded and shut off when I tried to charge a battery directly with it. The series Schottky let it charge a battery discharged to 12.02V. The low resistance I put in series wasn't needed, but it might be with a more deeply discharged battery. I want this thing fully automatic in case the power returns in the middle of the night.
-jsw
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On Thu, 8 Mar 2018 08:16:06 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"

Over two feet north and west of us, but I'm close enough to the coast (6 miles to Raritan Bay) that we got only about ten inches here. There are lots of power lines down but, again, not here.
And the snow blower started on the first pull, so I'm a happy camper. d8-)
--
Ed Huntress

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On Thu, 08 Mar 2018 08:55:36 -0500, Ed Huntress

Just over an inch on the ground here in the classic Central Ontario Snow Belt, after the warmest (by 2 degrees) Feb on record, where we set numerous record lows early in the month, and several record highs late in the month.
If all the rain we got had come as snow we'd still be digging our way out.
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wrote:

We haven't had much of our usual cold Canadian air here, either. The weathermen said that the lack of our usual cold air mass pushing down from Canada made the path of our nor'easter wobbly and uncertain. They usually have a pretty good handle on where the air masses will collide, and thus, they can predict snow lines more accurately.
This time the sucker just moved up the coast unhindered, and then headed out to sea -- actually, up to Cape Cod and Maine.
So we had wildly different snowfall amounts 20 miles in any direction.
BTW, a "nor'easter" is just a storm that travels up the coast from the Southeastern US, sometimes from Florida, following the path of hurricanes that take the same route. They can be worse than hurricanes here. They have a tight cyclonic airflow and the flow is strongest when the eye is positioned such that we feel the wind coming from the northeast -- thus the name. One of them blew half the shingles off my house 30 years ago or so.
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On Thu, 08 Mar 2018 12:26:29 -0500, Ed Huntress

The counterclockwize rotation around the low pressure causes the north-east wind to suck moisture out of the atlantic and drop it on the leading edge of the storm as the low travels north.
Hense the old saying "when the wind is from the east it is fit for neither man nor beast"
Here in central ontario those easterlies drag the moisture out of lake ontario and dump it on us when the lake isn't frozen. The prevailing westerlies pick it up off Superior and Huron, dropping MOST of it to the west uf us. Something has changed in the weather patterns and Kitchener/Waterloo, Elmira, and Statford get a LOT less snow in recent years - and where Elmira used to get significantly more than waterloo (only 14km apart), both now get significantly less than areas both to the east and west - almost like we are in the shadow of something - - -
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