Bendix gear end clamp

Hello Gents, I took the starter out of my John Deere 440. It's got some weird clamp thingie that holds the bendix gear onto the shaft. Picture here.

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Any idea what it is and how to get it off? Thx, George H.

Reply to
George Herold
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No clue... but this may be a new assembly here for ~$36

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Maybe try contacting them?

I noticed other very similar looking, if not the same for sale there too...

Reply to
Leon Fisk

Hmm that looks to have the same 'cut out' on the end...

Thanks. Yeah I ordered a new drive.

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I'll be able to figure it out when the new drive arrives... (It looks like there is a key way on the shaft.)

Reply to
George Herold
<snip>

Went searching on "old delco-remy bendix removal" and found this ;-)

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Lots of pictures, discussion... and it sounds like you may need a Bearing separator/puller...

Dates are from around a year ago so you could probably still ask some questions too :)

Reply to
Leon Fisk

Awesome! Thanks... I've got some reading to do! I've also got some serious wear on a few (~10) teeth of the fly wheel drive gear. (I ordered a new gear as well, but I'm hoping that I can get the starter working with out having to put in a gear... dropping the motor.)

Hmm I've got bearing pullers, but it looks like I might have to buy something like that 'split pie plate with a hole in it' tool. Anyway back to the shop. Thx again, George H.

Reply to
George Herold

OK got it off. Now waiting for the new part. George H.

Reply to
George Herold
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COOL! :)

So many times it isn't a difficult problem or thing to do but understanding exactly what needs to be done... Wish I had a dollar (used to be nickel, inflation...) for every time I broke something trying to figure out the trick to getting it apart...

Not tried it... but heard of guys adding brazing rod to damaged gear teeth as filler, then filing/grinding to needed profile.

Reply to
Leon Fisk

...or getting it back together. I had an old Dust Buster handheld vacuum whose battery was no longer holding much charge. I decide to take it apart to see if I could replace the battery. Right before I did, I was using it heavily and really running down the charge, and for some reason it seemed to start charging better again — not like when it was new, but much better. So I got it apart, figured that the style of battery probably wasn't replaceable, and tried to reassemble it. I could not get it back together for the life of me. $60 or so dollars later, I have a newer (and much better) Dust Buster. But I'm irked I couldn't manage to reassemble the old one.

Reply to
Mike Colangelo

Re Brazing rod and grinding...Sounds like a pain and not skills in my wheel house. It's a pretty small 2-cyl. engine, and maybe not that hard to drop it. (Much of the engine area is covered with decades of grim and could use some TLC... maybe even fix some of the leaky grim joints. :^)

George H.

Reply to
George Herold

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message news:sbg2fk$g2a$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me... ... Not tried it... but heard of guys adding brazing rod to damaged gear teeth as filler, then filing/grinding to needed profile.

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

Re Brazing rod and grinding...Sounds like a pain and not skills in my wheel house. It's a pretty small 2-cyl. engine, and maybe not that hard to drop it. (Much of the engine area is covered with decades of grim and could use some TLC... maybe even fix some of the leaky grim joints. :^)

George H.

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Another application for brazing is restoring eroded starter contacts. The brass didn't last as long as the original copper but it was simple to do over again.

I keep vehicles that I like in good condition until finding parts becomes difficult, although I check out new ones every few years. Monday the salesman told me my 21-year-old car was in the best shape he'd ever seen, mainly thanks to my rust repairs and new headlights. Then he told me about the lower reliability of the more complex newer models, as he had previously sold that brand.

Reply to
Jim Wilkins
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Understood... thought I'd throw it out there for you to ponder...

As a teenager working at a farm I would have been gung-ho to give that a try. I could braze ANYTHING back then... Nowadays I consider which of the two solutions sounds less painful and in-line with my abilities and equipment ;-)

Reply to
Leon Fisk

OK. TBH I'm not really sure what brazing is. Back when we built low temp probes in grad school, we used an oxy-acetylene torch and high temp silver solder to join stainless together. Here and now I've got nothing that gets hot enough for that... unless I can braze with my arc welder.

George H.

Reply to
George Herold

Sounds good. Around here (Buffalo NY) the salt used in the winter is the death of car bodies. One thing great about old tractors is you still can get parts for them. George H.

Reply to
George Herold
<snip>

For some strange reason I've become a lot dumber since my teen years... And indeed, I was using oxy-acy equipment.

You can braze with an arc welder by using a carbon arc torch adapter. But I wouldn't recommend it unless you were really desperate for a solution ;) Nice video demonstrating its use:

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Another trick for repairing teeth on cast iron is to weld a thin layer over the spot using a nickel cast iron rod. Then switch to standard rod for the build up. The nickel will stick to the cast and standard rod will stick to the nickel. Got that from an old Farm Welding book, back when buying nickel rod made peoples eyes pop out :)

Reply to
Leon Fisk

On Wednesday, June 30, 2021 at 7:36:21 AM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote: ...

Sounds good. Around here (Buffalo NY) the salt used in the winter is the death of car bodies. One thing great about old tractors is you still can get parts for them. George H.

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I'm downwind of you in NH with the same salt problem, from less snow and maybe more ice.

How bad is that front that you're under and we're due for?

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

Another trick for repairing teeth on cast iron is to weld a thin layer over the spot using a nickel cast iron rod. Then switch to standard rod for the build up. The nickel will stick to the cast and standard rod will stick to the nickel. Got that from an old Farm Welding book, back when buying nickel rod made peoples eyes pop out :)

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

George good luck with the tracter. On another vein, about 4 years ago you mentioned ordering one of the less than $100 signal generators using Analog Device's adf4351. Did you get one? and how did it work? I'll probably be needing one soon and any reccomendations would be helpful.

Hul

George Herold snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Reply to
Hul Tytus

George good luck with the tracter. On another vein, about 4 years ago you mentioned ordering one of the less than $100 signal generators using Analog Device's adf4351. Did you get one? and how did it work? I'll probably be needing one soon and any reccomendations would be helpful.

Hul

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I built prototype digital radios in the 1990's and have a ham radio license but haven't pursued it much as a hobby.

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

Thanks Jim. I'll take a look. Regarding the first, do you know what a rtl-sdr is? Not a resistor transtor logic device?

Hul

Jim Wilk> George good luck with the tracter. On another vein, about 4 years ago you

Reply to
Hul Tytus

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