This -should- be a link to trailer plans. Northern sell the wheels, axles, and other necessary fittings at good prices, but watch out for the shipping charges.
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Off the record, a shop teacher told me that 2" square tubing was better than round stock for smaller home-made trailers because it's easier to cut and weld the joints and attach the wood.
Commercial trailer frames are often channel iron or sheet bent into a channel. I've found a really good deal on channel at a place that sold used industrial shelving. Unlike pipe or square tubing it has a strong and a weak direction so you have to understand the forces on it.
The angle cuts on the ends of pipe are difficult to align and a 3" fishmouth joint won't be easy to cut. I clamp on a piece of angle iron near both ends of the pipe and try to line them up by sight. If the cuts aren't aligned or the joint has large uneven gaps the welded frame is likely to warp.
I live in South Central Kentucky. I am struggeling with what size. Ideally I would love a 16 foot dual axle but realize this is probably too much. A smaller, single axle to ocassionally haul my mower and to get pea gravel for the mulch around my house.
By the way, how much would pea gravel weight and what capacity trailer would I need for it?
At work we are throwing away some 3 inch square tubing off of some material stands. I could get this material for 5 cents a pound. The longest I could make the trailer with these is 10 feet.
Could I make a 10x6 dual axle trailer with this stuff? The maint guy said he could even get me a price for 1/8 inch diamond tread for the floor.
Could I hall my 8n on it as well as the pea gravel?
Assuming (again) it is steel, at least 3/16" thick (preferably more), with good solid welds and all of it is tied together well it will probably do just fine. Equally important might be the axle, spindles, tires, etc.
Northern also has a couple of books on trailer design and building. I think they are about $20 each. I think you'll need BOTH as #1 takes you to a certain point and drops you - sort of an introduction.
Do you plan on a wide axle so the tractor will fit between the wheels like a dolly or do you plan to elevate the platform above the wheels so you can also haul a storage building if you need to later on? The lower it is the more stable it will be. The only advantage I can think of for an elevated platform - above the wheels - is the ability to carry something too wide for the axles & fenders. It will decrease stability greatly though.
This link is in VA and they don't deliver to Kentucky, but you can look at what they have to offer and may be able to find online something to look for in Kentucky.
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Best of luck with the adventure. Take your time. Ask all the questions needed. Someone will point you in the right direction, but you will need to provide the right questions. :-)
OH, this site can provide lots of info on the technical aspects of welding.
The OP asked such a vague question, it indicated to me a clueless person who wouldn't know how to cut or weld said pipe. If he did, he would just go out to the garage and do it.
The OP didn't even specify if the pipe was black, galvanized, ABS or PVC.
From his original post, I think 99.9 percent of your post went above his head.
What would we tell a person who writes in and asks, "I have some spare metal and stuff in my shop and want to build an airplane. WOuld this work ok?" (sic)
I told the person that he didn't sound like he knew enough to do it and suggested buying a used trailer. If that makes me negative, then so be it. As for the days of everyone being responsible, that went out with 30 cent gasoline.
It is hot rolled steel I believe. Not sure on thickness but I believe thicker than 3/16. Unfortunatly, I have been welding around the farm as a hobby but never had "training" per se. I have an AC lincoln. Thought baout using 7013 rods. (ALthough this metal is painted and would have to be cleaned up). Would purchase axle/spindles from somewhere probably. Center sections woulb be some 3 inch channel we have.
Not sure of the floor. Thing bothering me is I can only make it 10 feet long. IS that long enough? WOuld a single axle be sufficent?
I notice you have not been cross posting and that is to be appreciated in most cases - though I have been guilty of responding to such. You might want to consider posting (I didn't say cross posting ;-) ) in sci.engr.joining.welding for some other points of view on the welding aspects of this project.
A side grinder should take care of cleaning the metal for welding. Some may suggest a paint stripper but that would depend on how much of it was to be welded.
7013 is for mild steel and is not a deep penetrating rod. I'm not really a welder so can't speak authoritatively here, though I could look it up on some site like Lincoln, Miller, etc. - however, I think 7010 might give you a better weld. If there is any doubt about any of the welds the better the rest of them hold the better off you are.
I'm assuming the AC Lincoln is a "buzz box" that goes to about 225 amps. This should be plenty good for this. I have a "homemade" trailer that I had a fellow build for me years ago. He used the same welder. Did a good job.
Make sure you have plenty of places to secure your load. Mine has diamond plate for the bed, ? 1/8" steel, but has several cross members for additional support. He used 4" channel for the frame, turned with the open side out. Then we recessed fold down tie downs into the channel.
10' might be a bit short, even for the bed only for an 8N was it? Go into some assembly hall, warehouse, church, etc. that has a wide expanse and look up. You'll likely see some beams of some type that go across. Some of these may span 40' and be made up of 12' or 16' boards. They are nailed, bolted, or otherwise secured, 3 or 4 deep, joints staggered. I expect someone could build you a trailer much larger than 10' with that same material. Check it out. Weld them together, just don't butt them end to end and run a bead around it thinking it's all you need! :-)
As mentioned before, Go slow. Plan the job. Look at lots of examples. Do your homework - which you seem to be doing. Search the web for welding electrodes and their uses. Some are better for AC, some for DC
or - . Some are deep penetrating and some shallower. Some leave lots of slag and some much less. Get what you think you need and practice with them. Incidentally, some are better than others for welding vertical or overhead. Will you have a means of flipping the trailer on the side or upside down while you do the welding? May want to get under a big shade tree with a chain hoist or use the 3-point hitch on that 8N, which probably won't get high enough. You'll be having to weld or clamp the axle to the frame when finished with the frame. Mine were clamped on and I had a clamp come loose once when I hit a hole. The trailer did a dance! 3" channel will be fine to work with as cross members. I have several 4" and some 3". The smaller the material the closer the members should be.
I still don't recall if you plan to have a set of springs or rigid axle.
Any trailer will haul at least some gravel, a bigger trailer will take fewer trips. You seem like either a troll who is playing with us (not the first one, either) or someone who isn't qualified to design a safe vehicle for the public roads, and I don't want to post advice that could boomerang.
Bracing could be in the way you tie the corners together and tie in the tongue.
You mentioned some diamond plate, I believe. If that is welded at all the cross members and around the edges it'll do a pretty good job of tying it all in. Is the diamond plate steel also? Not aluminum?
What makes you think it can only be 10 feet long? An experienced welder should have no trouble making it as long as you want, if you have enough material. Make sure to weld plate over the joint. 3 to 6 inches on each side of the joint should do it. Get the welder at work to advise you. Take him a box of donuts when you go to ask and he may even do it for you. If no welder, almost any farmer worth his salt could do it.
Good idea. Why not find out who rents what trailers near you and if you can rent a large one, design yours smaller (and easier) for what you will usually carry.
One of my neighbors has a useful half-ton trailer made from the back half of a wrecked pickup truck.
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