Can't get the tooling out of my mini arbor press

I bought a mini jeweler's arbor press/staking kit
http://www.vigoroptical.com/stakingset.html
It got stored damp and the tooling is stuck in the thing. The die holder in the bottom is loose, but won't raise up far enough to remove it before it hits the top tool. Ditto for the tool in the ram. Can't lower it far enough to get the ram out.
There's a cap screw in the bottom and a Nut on top of the main frame parts. I've torqued on them harder than I like and nothing budged there. also looks like there may be some pins that have to be driven out to disassemble it. All that works, so don't wanna break it.
If I could get either of the tools out, I could slide it apart where I could see what I'm doing.
So, I'm back to getting the tooling out of the holders. I soaked it in Kroil penetrating oil and tried to twist 'em out. No luck.
Suggested technique for getting the rust to let go?
My next default is to heat it...but I thought I'd ask here first. How hot can I get it before I screw up the hardening of the tool?
Thanks, Mike

email.me:
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You cannot pull out the pinion gear?
Is there a removable gib plate for the ram?
Is the ram toothed along its entire length, or does it stop short of the ends?
The picture you showed has no details, and you didn't tell us much.
LLoyd

On Sat, 02 Aug 2014 21:32:25 -0700, mike
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=====================Electrolytic de rusting seems to work well. All you need is a battery charger and a plastic tub. Walmart storage bins work well. for example http://tinyurl.com/mjqppab [single units available in store]
process http://tinyurl.com/38amh3 http://tinyurl.com/2quuy5

"mike"
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I say soak it in Dexron ATF and gently heat it up with a propane torch. If you see air bubbles coming up through the oil bobs your uncle. I've given up on all other penetrating oils. If you don't use heat then PFM will work also. That is a mix of 50/50 dexron and a solvent. I just took apart a water pump cylinder that was not used in over 30 years and it was suspended above water line and was severely rusted. The end caps have a 4" coarse thread and the dexron penetrated 100% with a little heat! Why does this work? I think because the commercial penetrants evaporate in the heat applied whereas the dexron can take it and gets thinner at temp and the heat will expand the iron a small amount allowing the oil to enter. Thats my opinion, YMMV. phil k

On 8/3/2014 9:26 AM, Phil Kangas wrote:
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Thanks for the tip. I'll have to go find some ATF. Thought I'd give it one more try. Don't know whether it was the extra day soaking in penetrating oil or me being more "assertive" about how much force I was willing to apply. I got one piece loose. That gave me clearance to take it all apart and the rest is history. All things are possible once you can get at it with a vise and a hammer. ;-)
Now, I have one more tool to add to the "what possessed me to buy this thing?" pile. Still the best dollar I spent all weekend.

"mike" <
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Life is good, eih? ;>)}