This is relevant to the modern interchangeable parts and output impedance discussions.
The other day my truck had a no-start problem that turned out to be a poor cable connection at the battery clamp that I'd missed during an otherwise thorough spring electrical cleanup. I found it -after- I had removed, disassembled and thoroughly checked the starter.
The corrosion hidden inside the cable clamp still allowed about 30 -
40 Amps, not enough to spin the starter motor with the Bendix engaged but the voltages were correct everywhere that was easily accessible, the solenoid clicked and the battery dropped to 11.5V.I bought Autozone's solid brass battery terminal to replace the previous replacement and just found that it's too large for the negative post and too small for the positive. It would have been a problem for someone without my collection of blacksmith tools to swage open the tapered hole and a milling machine to recut the square bolt head seat at the new angle.
Autozone had a set of combo wrenches for not much more than HF's price which is a better match to the odd sizes Ford used, like 18mm. This time the socket set wouldn't get everything. I work on vehicles with the tool kit kept in them and add to it whatever I had to borrow from the garage set. Since I've taken almost everything apart already cheap wrenches are good enough to undo bolts that have been lubed with LPS-3 or Never-Seez. (r)
-jsw