Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to (2025 Update)

May 13, 2019 Last reply: 8 months ago 2 Replies

I've got a 1440 Chinese lathe from Precision Mathews. Its not the cats meow, but its still better than any other lathe I have. Often when taking facing cuts or parting cuts I like to lock the carriage. The bolt for that is a recessed socket head screw. It works ok, but it seems I am always looking around for the hex key when I want to release it and move the tool away from the stock. Unless I am holding it in my hand the whole time it always takes me a couple seconds longer than I would like to locate where I set it down.



I've been thinking about about making a taller head replacement bolt, drilling it for a small vise handle. I've got a bit of 4140QT shaft on hand and a bit of 1/4" 1144 rod. Making it should be no big deal. Any reason why I shouldn't. I'd keep it as low as possible, and make the handle about half the difference in length between a short arm and a long arm hex key that size.



Speaking of such I'd also like to lock the cross slide from time to time. There isn't a lock on it, but it does have a tapered gibb that's easily adjustable with a screw at each end. Usually I just keep the gibb adjusted a little bit tighter than is perfectly comfortable to spin the hand wheel, but on heavy roughing cuts it can still back off on longer pieces of stock. I wind up standing there with my hand on the hand wheel and my eye on the DRO the whole time. Is that just the best way to do it?


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Another idea is to make it such that your chuck key fits it...

**** Not a bad idea, and I do have a location specifically for the chuck key(s), but which chuck key depends on which chuck I have on the lathe.

I bought a cheap set of HF metric ratchet wrenches that have reverse on them:

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I leave the 12mm on/in the tail stock locking bolt. One more idea :)

**** This lathe has its own lever locking system for the tail stock. I have to adjust it once in a while, btut not tools required to lock it in place, or to adjust the lock. I do leave a 3/4 box end wrench ont eh tailstock clamping bolt on my smaller 8.5x 18 lathe.

You might try facing the bolt head and nut bearing surfaces square with the shank and threads to see if that makes the tailstock lock and release with less rotation.

My lathe's tailstock was refitted with a 1/2-13 bolt that clamps tight (enough) or fully releases in 1/8 of a turn. I found an old wrench like this and made a hex nut+washer that is 0.80" across the flats to fit it.

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