[ ... ]
O.K. Jove is also significantly smaller than emacs -- but with a similar command set until you get into the lisp enhanced stuff in emacs. On Solaris 10, here is what I find:
======================================================================
-rwxr-xr-x 1 root staff 275080 Mar 23 1999 /usr/local/bin/jove*
-r-xr-xr-x 2 root bin 6551000 Apr 27 2007 /opt/sfw/bin/emacs* ======================================================================
And jove is that much smaller while its executable is not stripped, while that of emacs is stripped. :-)
====================================================================== /usr/local/bin/jove: ELF 32-bit MSB executable SPARC Version 1, dynamically linked, not stripped
/opt/sfw/bin/emacs: ELF 32-bit MSB executable SPARC Version 1, dynamically linked, stripped ======================================================================
Hmm ... I wonder how it compares with the stuff which you can do with pf (Packet Filter) on OpenBSD when running it as a firewall/router?
[ ... ][ ... ]
A lot of that tooling is only necessary if you are going to photosensitize your own panels. If the kits are still available, that will be a lot less resource intensive. You'll need:
1) A UV source for exposing (though you can get away with photofloods and much longer exposure times. 2) An amber light bulb (bug-free type) for handling the photosensitized plates. (They aren't *that* sensitive. :-) 3) Someplace fairly dark which will carry off the fumes of the trichlor developer. 4) A glass tray for doing the etching in, since I'm not sure how well plastic photo trays will deal with the NaOH, and they *certainly* won't deal with the trichlor developer well at all. 5) Either a drawing package and a B&W laser printer for making the negatives directly on mylar, or an enlarger and Kodalith Ortho (or simply a 4x5 camera for making smaller data plates and nameplates, as I have done at home in the past.That should be enough as long as you are working with pre-coated boards.
I even used it for making a property label for my concertina case, calling it an:
AN/PNT 47T
(And -- if you have the standard for the AN numbers available, that translates to:
P in first position: Man or pack portable
N in second: Sound in air
T in third: Generator
And the instrument was a 47-key treble, hence the last part, which was stamped into a white (bare aluminum) area on the plate, so it could be set up for anyone's instrument.
It also had a place for the owner's name to be stamped.
O.K. So far, I have the single-phase motor and have had to learn to do without rapid spindle stops. :-) Some of these days, I'm going to put the three-phase motor in, and wire the VFD to start/stop/reverse from the drum switch -- plus a tiny holder below that for the speed pot (rescued from an old Bridgeport BOSS-3 control pod. A nice Allen-Bradley pot behind a knob and mount which looks like the switches on the same. (Hmm ... I could use one of those switches to tell it which pulley step the belt is on, if I need that for scaling the tach. :-)
[ ... ]Agreed. But I just had to mention that. :-)
O.K. I do it under power, and just pop out the half-nuts at the right time. (At least until I have to do metric threads on that machine. :-) *There* is where really slow operation and quick reversing will be helpful.
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O.K. I think that Fry's was one of the places which I hit while visiting my sister in the California area -- though Weird Stuff was more fun. :-)
Enjoy, DoN.