Clausing 5914 Questions

Joseph Gwinn · 2007-12-01T23:10:01+00:00

I'm going to look at a Clausing 5914 being sold by a welding shop that is closing at yearend, and I'm looking for a list of issues to be aware of. The seller is an electrician and makes no claim to be a machinist, and isn't able to answer my questions. What I do know: 13" by 40", 208 volts 3 phase, motor HP unknown. Lots of accessories are included, but the seller does not know their names or functions. I also have some more general questions.1. Does or can the 5914 come with a camlock spindle? (The seller said it was both camlock and threaded; he may have been thinking of the 5C collets showing in the photo.) Or did people adapt threaded spindles somehow? If yes, how well does it work?2. It is claimed that this 5914 is varispeed. Is this possible? I suppose someone could have modified the machine. 3. How well does the varispeed work, and what are its failure modes?4. I think that the machine is under power, so I'll be able to listen to bearings. What else should I look for in the headstock?5. I'll look at the ways for wear. The claim is that condition is good, but who knows what that means.6. What is the footprint and weight of this machine?7. What things usually break?8. What have I missed?Thanks,Joe Gwinn

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grants2 18 years ago

I bought one (5914) 20 years ago for $400, put $1000 of parts in it and still have a $400 lathe (worn bed). The parts are available but not cheap. Most of these are old enough (1960's) to have bed wear or other problems common to old lathes. However the overall design and manufacture of this model is first rate, so if the bed is straight and not badly worn, you might have a winner. The hydraulic mechanism for the cone pulley is also a typical worn area as are the cone bearings, sleeves, etc. The cone pulley jackshaft is also pretty noisy. I replaced all of the motor and jackshaft bearings in mine which are easy to find except for one thin shell "torque tube" bearing which is rarely stocked (check aircraft suppliers). One common fix is to replace the whole variable speed arrangement with an VFD (variable frequency drive inverter). At 2 hp it is possible to find these with

230 v single phase input and 230 v 3 phase output, which most of these lathes require. Enough of these lathes are around you might be able to sell the original vari-speed parts to cover some of the inverter costs. The L00 chuck has a MT4.5 (four and one half!) taper, so be aware of that if setting it up for 5C collets. Clausing (Royal also) sells the adapter and some Chinese/Taiwan lathes also did this (my 10 x 24 TIDA for instance). Look at the oil levels in the spindle and apron, as there are sight windows on both. It is also easy to remove the spindle cover for a look inside.

Chuck up a piece of 1" or larger by 10" aluminum rod and take some light cuts to true it over the exposed length. (w/o tailstock center) Mike the diameter every inch. If the diameters group tight enough for your use, go for it. Usually most of the bed wear is in the first 3 or 4 inches of carriage travel. If you are really ambitious, the lathe can be stripped down and the bed reground (it is hardened) for $500+/- if you can find a shop with a big enough surface grinder.

If it is in really good shape, don't be afraid to pay up to the cost of a new Chinese 12 x 36 ($3000+). My 13 x 40 gear head JET cost me $4000 and I would give it up any day for a 5914 in great shape.

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Joseph Gwinn 18 years ago

Given the time pressure, both the seller's and mine, and the weather, I will just hire a rigger this time. But I do see how one could move this lathe by oneself.

Joe Gwinn

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Joseph Gwinn 18 years ago

[snip]

Turns out to be L-00.

They look pretty good to me.

Everything does run, but is a bit noisy. It will need some TLC.

Yes. And this was a major factor in my decision to go for a Clausing. Expensive beats unavailable any day.

It does have the collet closer plus a well worn set of 5C collets.

The bed looks perfect to me.

This one is noisy too. I hear metal on metal a bit, so some heavy oil may be in order.

This lathe is 3 phase 208/240 volt. Probably is 2 HP, but didn't look. I already have a big-enough VFD driving the Millrite, so initially I will use the one VFD.

That's a good point. The varispeed drive does seem to work OK.

Hmm. What looked like 5C collets may not be? This is good to know. I'll check into this when I get the lathe home.

From the sound as it runs, I bet it needs oil.

The ways look very good to me. We'll see about the rest. I didn't try to machine anything.

The lathe was sold because the seller was closing a business, so the lathe was at least useful.

The business is a welding shop, and the fear was that grit from grinding would get into things and reshape the ways. It turned out that the lathe was well away from the grinding area, and there was no grit on the lathe at all.

I paid $2,500, for the lathe plus lots of other stuff. It will be some months before I will know if I won or lost on the deal.

I did look at the Chinese option for about the same money, but this was exactly my fear. So I decided to take the chance on the Clausing, despite the noise when it runs. Given that parts are available, I figure that most stuff can be fixed, albeit at some cost in time and treasure.

One thing the 5914 may or may not do is metric threads. I'm not sure what the story is there.

Joe Gwinn

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Mike Henry 18 years ago

Open up the headstock and check inside. There's a ball chain belt (looks like one of those old ball chains used to organize door keys) that brings oil up to the top of the headstock. If it's missing you'll want to make sure that it's parts have been removed and replace it.

There was a metric attachment option that consisted of a gear train and other parts. Those bring good money on Ebay ($500+) and don't come up often.

Clausing can supply a manual for ~$25 but they'll want the serial number. Mention any accessories (like that 5C closer) and they will probably include those as well.

Mike

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Paul 18 years ago

Part of the 5C collet setup is a MT4-1/2 by 5C bushing, and an aluminum nose that goes behind it on the L-00 taper. Make sure those came with the machine, and in use put the cap on FIRST, before the adapter bushing. The cap is what allows you to easily remove the bushing.

Regards Paul

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