Cleaning a MIG liner

I have one that's not feeding well , and wonder if it can - and should - be cleaned . I have a new one on hand , but it's sized for
.035-.045 wire , and I usually use .025 solid . I have .035 flux core loaded right now , but that was for an outside job that was blowing my shield gas away and I'd much prefer to go back to solid - I also have some .030 on hand but haven't yet tried it .
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On Wed, 9 Aug 2017 14:02:47 -0500

I've heard of guys doing it but usually it's just for finishing a job, like on a weekend and no-obtanium till Monday...
I was working on a Miller 250MP last winter for a friend and I could find replacement liners for ~$12 on Ebay. This was a liner for .024 to .035 wire. The only hard part was identifying the part number needed. His gun wasn't easily recognizable and had the part numbers worn off.
I think you should check replacement pricing first, don't think it will be that much. Probably around $25 or less...
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Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
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On 8/9/2017 2:20 PM, Leon Fisk wrote:

A new liner and drive roller came in the mail today from USAWeld . Under 30 bucks for both delivered , $9/liner and $14/roller plus shipping . The old liner has only had about 12-13 lbs of .025 wire thru it . I suspect the problem is from infrequent use and some flash rust on my wire . Try as I might , it's really hard to keep the humidity down in the shop - I do have a 6k BTU AC unit out there , but don't run it all the time due to the cost .
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On Wed, 9 Aug 2017 14:37:40 -0500
<snip>

A lot of the liners are steel and can rust too...
You can try making some nicks with a pair of dykes in a piece of MIG wire. Work this back and forth through the old liner and then blow it out. It never hurts to try if you have the time and patience...
I feel your pain, Michigan is notorious for high humidity. Most of my stuff is in the basement garage. I have humidistats set out and run the dehumidifier when they creep above my comfort level. If I just let the dehumidifier run at say 60% it wouldn't shut off for days if ever this time of the year... Oily rags here and there, wipe everything down after use. YUP, I'm a cheapskate :)
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Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
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"Terry Coombs" wrote in message wrote:

A new liner and drive roller came in the mail today from USAWeld . Under 30 bucks for both delivered , $9/liner and $14/roller
**********************
I like USA Weld for replacement parts. Usually have atleast one of about anything in stock and they are always an exact fit.
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Terry Coombs wrote:

Pull the liner, coil it up and soak it in some evaporust for about 2-3 hours. Remove it and blow out the excess.
For the wire, make a wire scrubber an attach it just before the drive rollers. Mine is a chunk of brake line tubing with a flared end and filled with stainless steel wool with some lube-matic weld wire lube. Wire goes in sort of dark and scruffy, comes out the other end nice and shiny and feeds like crap through a goose... I have the same issue, the MIG sets in the corner and gets used maybe once a month.
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wrote:

Thanks for the wire cleaning tip Steve. Since my first roll of rusty wire (it came with the welder) that I used for practice and build up of wear surfaces I haven't had a problem with rusty wire. But I bet in the future I will and your idea could save a roll of wire and a small pile of frog pelts. Eric
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wrote:

What, you guys don't have 30' Q-tips or pipe cleaners where you live?

I found a cheap injector for kero and other cleaners in tight spots to be the cheap blunt-needle medical syringes from Ebay and Amazon. The Viton pistons are immune to most solvents. I've used them to inject woodworking glue into a wood joint, grease into a hard-to-get-to bushing, and remove excess brake fluid from master cylinders. http://tinyurl.com/yc6lq7f8 10 for $5, delivered. (100ml are a buck with free shipping, too, if you want it large)
- I am a Transfinancial--A rich person born in a poor person's body. Please stop the hate by sending me money to resolve my money identity disorder. --anon
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