CNC mill limit switch

I need to replace a limit switch, honeywell 5XE1 written on the part. I see two ebay offers http://tinyurl.com/my9tzj6
http://tinyurl.com/n2mwydb
What does USPP mean against what does NSPP mean?
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Likely there are at least a dozen different manufacturers for that spec switch, it may be worthwhile to cross ref with mouser or digikey, it's probably worth no more than seven dollars retail.

plcCenter has 4 classifications of product condition:
a.. NSFP - New Surplus Factory Package w/ 3 month warranty a.. NSPP - New Surplus plcCenter Package w/ 3 month warranty a.. USPP - Used Surplus plcCenter Package w/ 3 month warranty a.. FNFP - Sealed - Brand New Sealed Factory New Factory Package w/ Full Factory Warranty
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On Mon, 12 Aug 2013 13:12:45 -0500, Karl Townsend

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Copied from further down the page in the first posting:
plcCenter has 4 classifications of product condition: " NSFP - New Surplus Factory Package w/ 3 month warranty " NSPP - New Surplus plcCenter Package w/ 3 month warranty " USPP - Used Surplus plcCenter Package w/ 3 month warranty " FNFP - Sealed - Brand New Sealed Factory New Factory Package w/ Full Factory Warranty
HTH
Bob rgentryatozdotnet
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it is explained in those auctions.

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Karl Townsend wrote:

Do you trust a seller who never shows ANY photos of what they are selling, and at very inflated prices?
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"Michael A. Terrell" wrote:

Arrow has 54 in stock for less than Ebay prices.
http://components.arrow.com/part/detail/2815897S3692320N1401 $47.96
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Thanks Mike,
order placed
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Karl Townsend wrote:

You're welcome. :)
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Michael A. Terrell wrote:

PLCC center was VERY good when I needed an obscure reflective sensor. I got a new in factory package sensor for about 1/4 of list price.
Jon
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Jon Elson wrote:

In this case they wanted 50% more for a used switch. I just don't trust sellers with no or bad photos and high prices. If the thing is bad, you've not only wasted time but likely the money, too.
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    Unfortunately, neither of the auctions has photos, so I can't see whether these are the ones which I worked with. I had to remove two from my Bridgeport (used to be BOSS-3) and replace them with two others. The difference between them (both were actuated by lever arms with rollers on the end) was that what was on the mill closed the same contacts whether the lever was pushed to the left or the right, and what I needed would close one set when pushed to the left and another when pushed to the right -- so I could stop the motion via the servo amp in the direction it was moving to actuate the switch, but still allow the servo to move in the other direction.
    At the time, I downloaded a bunch of documentation from Honeywell (and a couple of other makers of compatible switches) and learned a lot about them, most of which I have now forgotten.
    But the ones I used were modular -- one part contained the switches themselves, another was a cap which controlled how the switch was actuated, and typically there were provision for either a plunger on the cap, or a lever with a roller or a feeler. The whole assembly is oil and coolant proof once assembled.
    Unfortunately, a lot of that got lost in the aftermath of a fire, including the removed switches which might be all that you need.
    But depending on what is wrong with your original switches, you may need only the switch housing, or only the actuator cap, or the lever or plunger or whatever.
    Download the catalog form Honeywell, and read up on what the various numbers mean. Usually each letter has a particular significance -- including what kind of seal for what size of wire where it exits the box.
    Good Luck,         DoN.
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