Correct bore size for shaft

Unless you have an interference fit the grub screw *will* shift the gear, you need to decide how much you can tolerate. For a close, free fit I'd shoot for .01mm to .03mm clearance between the shaft and bore. Any tighter and you're likely to have to apply some force to get the gear on the shaft unless the finish, roundness, and straightness of the bore is very good. Much looser and you'll have a fair amount of perceptible play before the screw is tightened. I'm assuming the bore is not unusually long, say no more than 4x the diameter.

Keep in mind you need to take into account the tolerance on the shaft in order to maintain the desired fit. In other words, if the shaft is

4.75/4.74 the bore should be 4.77/4.76 if you want to maintain the fit suggested above.

Ned Simmons

Reply to
Ned Simmons
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Christopher Tidy wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@cantabgold.net:

H7 fit, 4.751-4.761 as the shaft is most likely h6 (-0.001/-0.011) This gives you a min clearance in a MMC condition of .002. But a more likely clearance of 0.01 or so.

Reply to
Anthony

Hi all,

This might seem like a silly question. I need to get a brass gear made. It will fit a 4.75 mm diameter precision ground steel shaft and be secured by a grubscrew. What diameter should I specify for the bore of the gear? I don't want it to be a tight fit on the shaft, but I don't want it to be so loose that the grubscrew causes the gear to become eccentric. When I make parts like this myself I normally just remove the material a little at a time until I achieve the desired fit, but what do I tell someone else to do? My gut reaction is to go with exactly 4.75 mm, but I'd be glad to hear what the experienced machinists have to say.

Best wishes,

Chris

Reply to
Christopher Tidy

Ok. 4.75 mm is about 4.75/25.4 = .194 inches. hmm... small shaft. For this size shaft I would specify 0.0 to 0.001 inch clearance (or 0 to 0.0245 mm) clearance on the bore. This represents a reasonable manufacturing clearance, but if you are willing to pay you can get half that. If gear performance is critical then you might want to rethink the whole problem.

Reply to
Kelly Jones

Don't forget to put a little flat on the shaft so marring from the grubscrew won't make the gear impossible to remove.

Reply to
Don Foreman

Hey Kelly,

My calculators suggest that 4.75 mm is 4.75/25.4 = .187007874", while

4.75/24.5 = .193877551. I think you WROTE us the correct "formula" (above), but you had a typo entering the mm to inch conversion figure.

In any event, for Chris' purpose, this 4.75 mm is VERY close to 3/16". I think I'd settle for ordering gears with a 3/16" bore and ream to whatever others here determine to be the "fit" size, if necessary. Personally, I really expect I'd try just a little warming of the gear in hot thin oil and "shrink" it on the shaft.

Take care.

Brian Lawson, Bothwell, Ontario.

Reply to
Brian Lawson

An interferrence fit is suggested for this application. Bore should be 4.75mm H7 and shaft be 4.75 j6

4.75H7 is +12 / 0 µm 4.75j6 is +6 / -2 µm

HTH, Nick

Reply to
Nick Müller

Darn calculator, anyway.

thanks

Reply to
Kelly Jones

Thanks for all the advice. I'm inclined to order a gear with a 4.75 mm bore and see if it fits. If not, warm it as Brian suggests, and if it still doesn't fit ream it out to 3/16" (4.7625 mm). I'm also wondering about cheating. I have some brass gears which fit the 4.75 mm diameter shaft perfectly, but they're too small for what I want to do. I'm tempted to order a standard gear, bore out the centre to accept the boss from one of the gears I have, then soft solder the boss in place (the loading is negligible). This saves the expense of getting a gear specially manufactured.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Best wishes,

Chris

Reply to
Christopher Tidy

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