Cutting 1"-8 thread

Good for you. I have one that big that weighs 26 pounds. I wonder what yours wil weigh.

Pete Stanaitis

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Ignoramus4763 wrote:

If it's an English anvil, the numbers would be in "hundredweight". (Is that "stone"? There would be either 3 or 4 digits. The first one is the number of full hundredweights (112 pounds). The second number is the number of

1. When stamped this way, the numbers are usually farther apart than they'd be if stamped in plain pounds.

Pete Stanaitis

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Mart> Ok - I want to see the picture of you "Picking it up" :-)

Is yours hollow inside?

A stone is 14lbs.

And a (long) hundredweight is 8 stones, which is very close to 50Kg.

If the 1"-8 thread would be for mounting a chuck to (speculating here, I don't see the original post), the thread on the shaft should undoubtedly be machine cut.

Then again, for mounting a chuck, the overall shaft should be machined to have accurate bearing contact surfaces.

For chuck mounting, it would most likely be better to use a shaft larger than 1", and have a flat shoulder or register machined, to fit the back of the chuck. These features make mounting a chuck more accurate and prevents the shaft thread from bottoming out when screwed together (at either the beginning or end of the thread on the shaft).

Some material for a shoulder feature could possibly be added to a 1" shaft before machining, such as shrink fitting or welding, depending on the application.

Another option could be to buy a piece of tooling with the desired features. I don't recall seeing something similar, but an arbor or tool mounting accessory may be available which would suit your application.

WB ......... metalworking projects

Michael

I will cut the threads for you if you will pay the shipping both ways

- to and from AZ USA

Bob AZ USA

Yes, it is that sort of thing but more like a face plate thingy...the concept is not finalized yet. It takes shape as the trips to the scrap yard go! I think the consensus is to get it cut by a lathe and that is what I will do if the rest of the contraption pans out: No point throwing good money after bad.

I was thinking about the shoulder feature last few days and all I came up with is a shaft collar...

Thank you for the offer. That is generous of you. However, the estimate of shipping puts the cost within $45 (CDN) give or take. Such is life...

Is this for the sanding turntable?

If the bearings are pillow blocks you might be able to use 1" - 8 threaded rod shimmed out to a snug fit with soda can aluminum or auto body repair tape. Use two nuts to lock the rod to one of the bearings, the outer one will be the shoulder.

Jim Wilkins

It's made from solid 16 gage steel! There's a picture of it at:

Oops, it only weighs 20 pounds. I bought it at a blacksmith club auction.

Pete Stanaitis

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Ignoramus7090 wrote:

Er, WB, if it is for a lathe build, then wouldn't you cut the thread with the lathe as it's first job.

Perfectly true to the spindle and mounting then. Oh, maybe it is to be a wood lathe. OK, cancel that.

Dave.

That depends on the plate and tool bit materials. The speed limit is where the tool point heats up enough to soften and you probably won't see it. For example you can soften and dull the teeth of a cheap hacksaw blade by sawing tool steel too quickly. 700 FPM at the outer edge should be OK for aluminum but it's -way- too fast for steel, I run 80 - 100 FPM, and 50 or less for cheap half-fast-steel Enco end mills and lathe bits.

Look at the lathe in Fig 92 of Holtzapffel. The drive engages the outer rim of the faceplate rather than a pulley on the spindle, so one part does double duty. A plastic kiddy bicycle wheel might work. The reversed tapered pulleys, which could be wooden, let you change the speed through a 7:1 range while the lathe is running so you could run

The slide rest is fastened to simple non-precise ways and aligned parallel or perpendicular to the spindle axis with a test bar or by measuring the cut. You could try an X-Y table or vise.

These are some of the ideas I hoped you would get from the book. The hard part is hiring enough Egyptians to pile up all those stone blocks for the base. (It's a 25' x 40' lathe by James Nasmyth)

Jim Wilkins

That depends on the plate and tool bit materials. The speed limit is where the tool point heats up enough to soften and you probably won't see it. For example you can soften and dull the teeth of a cheap hacksaw blade by sawing tool steel too quickly. 700 FPM at the outer edge should be OK for aluminum but it's -way- too fast for steel, I run 80 - 100 FPM, and 50 or less for cheap half-fast-steel Enco end mills and lathe bits.

Look at the lathe in Fig 92 of Holtzapffel. The drive engages the outer rim of the faceplate rather than a pulley on the spindle, so one part does double duty. A plastic kiddy bicycle wheel might work. The reversed tapered pulleys, which could be wooden, let you change the speed through a 7:1 range while the lathe is running so you could run

I am independently pursuing another arrangement partly based on some of the ideas you have imparted. But all is on hold as I have been playing withe mill for the last three days. I have also three dials to finish for the Christmas shopping rush and a router table (I seem to do more woodwork than metalwork these days and if I am going to be making wooden pulleys ti will be even more. BTW, how do you attach the wooden pulleys to the shafts? I was thinking a split collar with a hose clamp...)

The slide rest is fastened to simple non-precise ways and aligned parallel or perpendicular to the spindle axis with a test bar or by measuring the cut. You could try an X-Y table or vise.

These are some of the ideas I hoped you would get from the book. The hard part is hiring enough Egyptians to pile up all those stone blocks for the base. (It's a 25' x 40' lathe by James Nasmyth)

Boy, your newsreader formats your replies funny. It's pretty confusing as to which part is a quote and which is your reply. Usually the quotes are marked, e.g., with a ">" before each line, and new text not.

Bob

One?