Cutting pavers

I'm building an extension to my patio with old pavers. These are REAL old, from a 100+ y/o building I had taken down that was a six bay carriage house. (for real horse drawn carriages) They are a beautiful color and have a lot of character but they are really, really hard! I bought a 4-1/2" "brick set" chisel and after marking all four sides and trying to "score" them with the chisel. This takes a number of hits just to see a bit of a mark on the face of the paver. After many, many hits something finally happens and it fractures, usually not on the line. I've got three done so far in two hours with about forty more to go.

Is there a better way or technique other than a diamond saw? I'm going to try a masonry bit in a drill press to get a better fracture line by pecking a series of shallow holes all the way around but I'm afraid of a scalloped end. Did I mention these things are REALLY hard? A hammer blow on an uneven end just bounces off without leaving a mark yet alone a chip. They may not be pavers but "antique bricks" I'm told by some people. I don't know the difference.

Reply to
Buerste
Loading thread data ...

Something like this-

formatting link
or bigger, but they get a lot more expensive

Reply to
ATP

But diamond is the way to go. I would score them with my makita angle grinder with a diamond blade all the way around and smack it with a hammer.

SW

Reply to
Sunworshipper

I successful cut concrete pavers by scoring with an HF diamond blade on an *old* circular saw. I stress old as tons of dust is created which I didn't want in my good saw. Scoring (1/4" deep) around the paver and then hit it with the chisel give a clean break. I used this one which I got on sale for $15.

formatting link
know it's diamond, but not the expensive one I think you meant) Art

Reply to
Artemus

What's wrong with a diamond saw? Get a 4 1/2" blade at Harbor Freight for your angle grinder. I have been using mine for over 5 years to do brickwork and can't wear it out. A set of three was less than 10 bucks. Score two sides and whack it with a 3" wide brick chisel if you want to go faster than a through cut.

Reply to
DT

On Wed, 21 Jul 2010 19:03:35 -0400, "Buerste" wrote the following:

Here ya go, Tawm:

formatting link

Eek! Don't do it manually.

No, nothing I've tried. BUT, I haven't tried a brick brakin' machine yet. You could probably build one, Mr. Machinist.

formatting link
muscle powered
formatting link
hydraulic POWER

-- Exercise ferments the humors, casts them into their proper channels, throws off redundancies, and helps nature in those secret distributions, without which the body cannot subsist in its vigor, nor the soul act with cheerfulness. -- Joseph Addison, The Spectator, July 12, 1711

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Or at least, it won't be a good saw for long. I'm not sure what it kills first: the bearings, the brushes, or the switch, but they all take a hit. Maybe pick up a used one at a pawn shop or tag/yard/ garage/barn/estate/rummage/church/fleamarket sale... --Glenn Lyford

Reply to
Glenn Lyford

I've cut a lot of patio stones for my pool apron, which I chose not to do in monolithic concrete because the stones were free to me. This turned out to be a wise choice.:-)).

Initially I used a concrete abrasive blade in an old, Old, OLD B&D saw which I rescued from a farm dump over 50 years ago!

Anyway, the dust was unbelievable and I tried to run a small trickle of water from the garden hose along the proposed cut. I had nothing to lose here as the saw was free and also grounded by the ground wire and a GFI.

This worked really well and the abrasive blade also appeared to last longer. Dust became non-existent.

Years later I did some tile work on an outdoor walkway and I used a diamond blade for this work. With the water trickle the dust was also a non-issue.

When using water make sure you are protected with a GFI and maybe stand on a rubber mat.

With your pavers I'd score them on the perimeter as deeply as you can manage; a diamond blade is cheap now and cuts very quickly. Use water trickle as I did. Then hit the paver with a big mallet. A wedge and sledge hammer may also do the trick.

PS.: I still have that saw and use it for work as described which now is becoming less and less.:-)).

Wolfgang

Reply to
wolfgang

I've cut some other things with a masonry saw blade (abrasive) in a circular saw. You make a number of shallow cuts, maybe .050" deep each pass, keeping the saw moving so the heat doesn't build up in one spot. When the groove is deep enough, it should split along the line. You really don't need diamond.

Jon

Reply to
Jon Elson

BINGO! Works GREAT!

Reply to
Buerste

"wolfgang" wrote

Anyway, the dust was unbelievable and I tried to run a small trickle of water from the garden hose along the proposed cut. I had nothing to lose here as the saw was free and also grounded by the ground wire and a GFI.

This worked really well and the abrasive blade also appeared to last longer. Dust became non-existent.

Granite installers use a m77 skil worm saw, or similar, and one guy holds the water bottle, like a ketchup squeeze bottle and dribbles the water on there when they do sink cut outs. Works pretty good.

Steve

visit my blog at

formatting link

Reply to
Steve B

Yeah, think like a rock.

Doing pools sometimes was easier to just score a line by hand up to

14" across and hit it against something or the right place or with a hammer, than moving a wet saw through a war zone. That's funny, I had forgotten how bad my work access was. It was SO bad at times where I would pass up the job till someone would get it together. Think like 5' wide access and 50' long with a 2' trench right where you need to walk and move a ton of material through. Then, the backyard !

.25" score? About the depth of one breath for all the way around.

SW

Reply to
Sunworshipper

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.