Dehumidifier Question

Well , all I can do is check it out . Got the taps on hand , if pressures are all out of whack I'll know whether it deserves more work . High side pressure will tell a lot , I'm already expecting the low side to be on the low side .

You know, that's a lot less amps than I'd have expected. Wish such units were still availble. Sounds like a great unit to have.

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How PITA is that process, and are new capillary tubes avaiable over the counter from HVAC supply places for small throw away type appliances?

I've looked at getting the refrigerant permit since it never seems to expire, but one issue would be disposal of the refrigerant if you have to drain out a unit. I don't see anybody using those dry cleaning looking bags anymore take gas back to the shop anymore, and it's not worth buying a reclamation machines just to fuss with window units for the hell of it.

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Almost not at all. You can buy capillary tubing from copper tubing suppliers, and a few full-line HVAC supplies, but it's a stone bitch to replace one properly; Really, not worth the effort.

C'mon... dehums can be bought in working order at "His Store" or Habitat for Humanity for lunch money.

Lloyd

I've replaced cap tubes. It can be done, if everything works out right. Moderately advanced skill, for HVAC / R guys. For dehum, not worth it. And likely to have to braze into aluminum. Whole different skill.

. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus

True. But you won't be able to see what else is going on in there. They are useful if you want to see if it just plain works, before you spend any true effort fixing the machine up.

I've had those Bullet Taps leak before - and be advised that you Can Not reuse them without replacing all the seals. They are cheap enough to go buy a new one for each piece of gear.

If you know how to braze, you get the modified Vise-Grips "Vampire Tap" tool to recover the coolant with a recovery machine and stuff it into a recovery cylinder. DO NOT VENT the old refrigerant unless you're darned sure the EPA Agents aren't within 100 miles. It's a $10,000 minimum fine and can go up to $1 Million per incident, and they aren't fooling.

And don't even start the job unless you have a recovery machine right there - they can call that intent to vent. Which was why I got out of the business, I had a boss who didn't care if we got nailed, he had One recovery for Six guys and wasn't going to buy another.

Then pop the brazed factory seals and install proper service ports in the process tubes.

You always put in a brand new spun copper filter/drier and hook the new Capillary to the output of it, so no crap gets into the capillary in the first place. The repair instructions should specify the size and length of the capillary tube...

But since you're having trouble with evap icing, I'd see about changing it over from a capillary tube to a Thermal Expansion Valve and let that meter in the refrigerant. When the outlet temperature & pressure drops below freezing at the sense bulb, the TXV cuts the flow of liquid refrigerant into the core for a bit.

If you were paying someone to do it, yes it isn't worth the effort or expense - But if it's treated as a Learning Experience you can do things that don't make sense otherwise.

Tap valve on the low side. Power up, watch the gauge. Power off, and keep watching the gauge. That's a good way to see if the system is working.

Icing can also be treated with a freeze stat.

Like you say, a one-off job with no financial interest, you can spend a lot more time.

I have a humidifier that is about 2 years old and it will run but it does n ot suck any moisture out of the room. I was told that is would need more R2

1. but I don't know the high pressure side from the low pressure side. I ha ve the parts to splice into the tube and the gauge but I am not sure how to do it. Can anybody help. Thanks Jack