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Drill Chuck - Seating on Spindle?

Hello, all,

I recently purchased a Jet drill press, and I've been having some trouble getting the chuck to fully seat properly on the tapered spindle.

The Jet instruction manual said to get everything as clean and devoid of oil or other lubricant as possible, and I used Brake Kleen spray on the spindle and the tube that it fits into...however, when I use the press, the chuck still sometimes "slips" on the spindle when I'm trying to drill through something.

I have knocked out the spindle-chuck assembly multiple times and re-cleaned and tried to re-seat it, and still the problem persists.

Can anyone offer any suggestions on how to get this seated properly? I was considering putting the spindle-chuck assembly into the freezer and heating the tube on the drill press which the spindle slides up into with a heat gun or propane torch...is that an acceptable method?

Thanks for any clues.

Reply to
Jones
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Reply to
RoyJ

If it's a decent fit then shrinking it in place may well make it permanent -- you don't want that.

I've always assembled these with an exceedingly light coating of very light oil -- basically I clean the parts off with oil on a rag, wipe them off firmly, and assemble. The oil limits corrosion, but is in such a thin film that the surface strength is exceeded when you bear down on the drill and that makes enough friction so that everything works.

The only time I've had trouble is when I've been abusing the joint, by putting side loads on it, or making it vibrate under light down-force, or other such foolery. Even there it doesn't slip so much as the morse adapter falls out of the spindle.

You've probably got a fit problem. I know this is inconceivable with newly purchased budget Chinese equipment, but none the less yours may be the rare case where the insanely quality-conscious Chinese labor force has slipped up -- perhaps they were buying parts from Germany, or something.

Do a fit check, per RoyJ.

Reply to
Tim Wescott

I spilled my coffee through my nose... :)

T.Alan

Reply to
T.Alan Kraus

I wondered who bought up all the good Jacobs and Bosch chucks!

LOL Rob

Reply to
Rob Fraser

Thanks for the replies. The problem seems to have vanished ... for now. We'll see. I appreciate the suggestions.

Jones.

Reply to
Jones

After verifying the fit, and making sure everything is clean, I was always taught to apply some white chalk to the male taper...

Reply to
Jon

Burns doesnt it...Dew through mine.....

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire. Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us) off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the shit out of you for torturing the cat." Gunner

Reply to
Gunner Asch

Jon wrote: (top posting fixed)

-- snip --

That's interesting. Does anyone here know what that does, and how good an idea it is?

Reply to
Tim Wescott

Chalk -

Softer than either steel. powders finely and fills voids, making contact all around.

Mart> J> (top posting fixed)

Reply to
Martin H. Eastburn

Watch the taper specs- You may have a JT 33 chuck and a B-16 arbor or vise-versa- they are very similar, but will not seat together properly.

Reply to
Jim Insolo

It's in old(1890s) machinist's manuals, three stripes of blackboard chalk on the surface of a taper shank WILL make it stay put. That's assuming no pimples, rings or gouges on the mating surfaces. Been doing it as long as I've been messing with old machinery.

As to why, the old books never addressed that, but one old formulary used rosin as a binder for blackboard chalk.

Stan

Reply to
stans4

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