drill holes in tubing

I spent the day getting a used greenhouse home. I'm plumb wore out right now. So, I'm a dreaming on the re-construction. I'll build it on skids so I
can drag it to new ground every year.
To do this, I'll need two runs of square tubing on each side. Fifty spots on each side to drill a 1.9" hole for a total of 200 holes. Then weld a vertical sleeve at each hole. The base on the sides will look just like a ladder laying down.
Anyway, what would you use to drill 200 1.9" holes in 2-1/4 (if made) or 2-1/2 square tubing. I have a radial arm drill press. I know I'd go through SEVERAL 1-7/8" regular hole saws. There must be a better option.
Karl
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I would plasma cut these holes using a jig. Should work great for subsequent welding.
i
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That would work good IF I had a hand held plasma cutter. I don't like to farm stuff out unless there's not another way.
Karl
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Don't forget you will end up pulling the skids into a shape resembling monkey food by welding on only the one side.
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Karl Get out there and get busy on that CNC plasma machine languishing in the shed! Steve
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Yep, you're right.
But the greenhouse is for my better half. She loves to garden. Doing something for her comes first. I KNOW there won't be time to finish this in the spring if I don't get the skeleton done before cold weather this fall.
Too many projects. Too little time.
Karl
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Karl Townsend wrote:

Why can't you use the CNC plasma to cut the holes and just index the material a couple times for the length?
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how about gas cutting

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On Sat, 17 Oct 2009 16:00:41 -0500, "Karl Townsend"

Um. Don't you have a cnc plasma table. Why don't you program it to do the holes.
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On Sat, 17 Oct 2009 15:27:41 -0500, "Karl Townsend"

Rotabroach(TM) or similar annular cutter. Work great, last long time. http://www.hougen.com/cutters/rotabroach_advantage.html
I've never tried these, but they're similar and are made specifically for thinner material. http://www.hougen.com/cutters/sheetmetal/Rotacut.html
--
Ned Simmons

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I just seen these (see another post). Any reason i can't turn the shank or make a custom arbor?
I think I'll go this way, just need to figure how to mount it in the radial arm drill press.
Karl
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On Sat, 17 Oct 2009 17:00:24 -0500, the infamous "Karl Townsend"

It appears that they're threaded internally, so just make a simple mandrel for it if one isn't available cheap.
-- The blind are not good trailblazers.
-- federal judge Frank Easterbrook
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On Sat, 17 Oct 2009 17:00:24 -0500, "Karl Townsend"

I just tested the shank on a couple Rotabroaches and they're hard -- more like an endmill than a drill.
The Rotabroach shank is a standard 3/4" Weldon. I've seen Morse taper adapters for them but can't recall where. If you don't have a 3/4" chuck, a reducing adapter would be easy to make. I usually drive them in a collet in the mill.
I just noticed these on Hougen's site, but I have no experience with them. http://www.hougen.com/cutters/sheetmetal/Holcutters.html
--
Ned Simmons

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I bought this some years ago and within 6 months Smith was bought out and the supply of consumables has pretty much dried up. I'm looking to sell it and replace it with another torch. What would be a fair asking price? It has quite a few consumables with it, but the long nozzles that I liked so well are gone, burned up the last one yesterday.
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I bought this some years ago and within 6 months Smith was bought out and the supply of consumables has pretty much dried up. I'm looking to sell it and replace it with another torch. What would be a fair asking price? It runs fine, and has quite a few consumables with it, but the long nozzles that I liked so well are gone, burned up the last one yesterday.
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Anybody know about annular cutters?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#6849a48/Cqybf
I have a huge Jacobs chuck. Most drill shanks are not hardened. Could I cut the shank down on this cutter to fit my Jacobs chuck?
Karl
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: I spent the day getting a used greenhouse home. I'm plumb wore out right : now. So, I'm a dreaming on the re-construction. I'll build it on skids so I : can drag it to new ground every year. : : To do this, I'll need two runs of square tubing on each side. Fifty spots on : each side to drill a 1.9" hole for a total of 200 holes. Then weld a : vertical sleeve at each hole. The base on the sides will look just like a : ladder laying down. : : Anyway, what would you use to drill 200 1.9" holes in 2-1/4 (if made) or : 2-1/2 square tubing. I have a radial arm drill press. I know I'd go through : SEVERAL 1-7/8" regular hole saws. There must be a better option. : : Karl : Maybe I'm missing something but ... Why drill any holes at all if you're going to weld sleeves on? Art
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I like the way you think. For that matter why use tubing. Why not use some 3/16 by 2 inch bar on each side of the sleeve. That would be close to tubing, just no top or bottom. Ought to pull okay. Would not work for pushing.
Dan
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On Sat, 17 Oct 2009 15:20:03 -0700 (PDT), snipped-for-privacy@krl.org wrote:

Why not use wood; shoe with a steel strip. Oughta make drilling those holes easier...
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wrote:

So what worked the best for pulling the conduit out of the ground?
I would cut the holes with a oxy/acet torch because that is what I have. Make some sort of jig to guide the torch and also to guide a drill to speed up starting the cut. A 1/4 inch hole or ever somewhat smaller would be enough. Yeah you can piece with the torch, but it is a lot nicer to start at an edge. It speeds up the heating as the heat can not go in all directions.
Dan
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