drill holes in tubing

Oct 17, 2009 33 Replies

On Sat, 17 Oct 2009 17:00:24 -0500, the infamous "Karl Townsend" scrawled the following:

It appears that they're threaded internally, so just make a simple mandrel for it if one isn't available cheap.

-- The blind are not good trailblazers.

-- federal judge Frank Easterbrook

I just tested the shank on a couple Rotabroaches and they're hard -- more like an endmill than a drill.

The Rotabroach shank is a standard 3/4" Weldon. I've seen Morse taper adapters for them but can't recall where. If you don't have a 3/4" chuck, a reducing adapter would be easy to make. I usually drive them in a collet in the mill.

I just noticed these on Hougen's site, but I have no experience with them.

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Why can't you use the CNC plasma to cut the holes and just index the material a couple times for the length?

How about a number of brackets that have holes and they get welded. Z like brackets. Something like building tie downs.

If the holes waller out over time, then the bracket can be cut out and a new one put in place.

Mart> I spent the day getting a used greenhouse home. I'm plumb wore out right

Um. Don't you have a cnc plasma table. Why don't you program it to do the holes.

Well, Personally I wouldn't use steel. I'd use wood. 4X4 or even a 6X6. Treated would last longer than the steel. And it would drag easier.

Drill your holes using a 2" Forstner bit. Then drill in on an angle and use a screw to secure the tubing to the steel. OR Gorilla glue it in.

For the floor the easy thing to use is horse mats.

Why drag it to new ground? The idea with a greenhouse is that you use compost and good soil in beds to raise plants. No real reason to move it.

How about a trammel cutter? With that you could dial it to the exact diameter you want, they are cheap and you can re-sharpen them.

Also, how did you wind up pulling all of the tubes?

Why not use wood; shoe with a steel strip. Oughta make drilling those holes easier...

What is this? A search of eBay and MSC turned up nothing

Young man named Ryan. Strong as an ox. He just wiggled and pulled. I couldn't believe it, they were all two feet deep.

Karl

Oops sorry I meant trepanning cutter

It is like a fly cutter but it has a drill bit for a pilot and one or two tool bits that cut the circle.

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There is a second design that has a rod that slides like this:

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Karl, your CNC plasma machine consists of two parts:

1) Plasma cutting power supply and torch 2) CNC controlled table.

Item 1 separates from item 2 and likely can be used manually, with especially great success if you use a jig.

I would do just that if I were you.

i

Iggy - Not so easy to remove the torch cable from the table.

I bought a 50' torch upgrade to a higher power and that works great out in front of my shop or inside. I have a clamp on ground to the main return clamp (which I changed to a 200amp clamp) and it runs 50' (nice big stick wire) and I have a magnet attachment. I can swap ends if a clamp is needed.

I have a table and CNC plasma machine as well.

Removing it isn't bad - just not easy to do back and forth...

Mart> Karl, your CNC plasma machine consists of two parts:

I bought this some years ago and within 6 months Smith was bought out and the supply of consumables has pretty much dried up. I'm looking to sell it and replace it with another torch. What would be a fair asking price? It has quite a few consumables with it, but the long nozzles that I liked so well are gone, burned up the last one yesterday.

I bought this some years ago and within 6 months Smith was bought out and the supply of consumables has pretty much dried up. I'm looking to sell it and replace it with another torch. What would be a fair asking price? It runs fine, and has quite a few consumables with it, but the long nozzles that I liked so well are gone, burned up the last one yesterday.

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