Drill press switch query

Try unplugging the cord and removing the remainder of the switch.

Wrap electrical tape around the spade connector with the two red wires on it to insulate it.

Connect the two black wires together and plug in the cord. If the motor runs, then you can unplug it, disconnect the two black wires and route them through that 15A wall switch you mentioned.

Jeff

What was under the red plastic? Could you just glob some RTV on the rocker, to simulate plastic?

Good Luck! Rich

Thanks Jeff! That did it. I'm still wondering about the red wires, though. One appears to be the neutral from the plug, the other appears to be the neutral to the motor. It makes sense that they're connected to one another, of course, but what (in the switch) would they be connected *to*?

Not that it matters. I'm drilling again. No worries.

Thanks again -- Terry

OK. Best guess: The two black are the hot incoming and the motor.

The two red are the cold/neutral and are 'looped' at the switch terminal which has no connection - it's the equivalent of a wire nut / marrette.

HIH.

Or, even more simply, a double pole (DPST) switch. Bob

Was the original switch lighted when on? If so, the light would need the neutral.

Best Regards, Keith Marshall snipped-for-privacy@progressivelogic.com

"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"

Did the original switch by any chance have a bulb or LED in it which lit when the motor was turned on? That would require that the neutral be available there.

That's just a WAG. other than that I can't think of why those wires would be needed at the switch. An autopsy of the switch body might reveal something, but to me the essence of pragmatism has always been expressed as, "If it works, use it and stop worrying about it."

Jeff

Seems irrelevant at this point, but make and model?

Probably the two red wires are the neutral and a DPST switch (requird for switching two hot lines for overseas safety agency approvals) has one side just used as a tie point. Is there an unconnected spade on the switch, beside the two red wires?

So you should be able to put your new switch between the two black wires and just leave the red wires tied to each other (and nowhere else).

Best regards, Spehro Pefhany

I think it's just a tie point (an unused pole of the switch). They need to buy mostly DPST switches anyway for their domestic market and the Euro market, so they probably wouldn't bother saving a couple of pennies by sourcing a SPST switch just for US/Canada if they can put the unused spade to some use. ;-)

Excellent.

Best regards, Spehro Pefhany

How about a foot switch?

A must-have for hands-free operation of table routers, scroll saws, drill presses, lathes, and rotary tools. Effortless installation: plug the foot switch into a grounded outlet, then plug the machine into the foot switch.

Easy to operate. Hand or foot use. Momentary snap-action design -- press to turn on and maintain power, step off to turn off. Includes 7 ft. 5" power cord

ITEM 96619-2VGA $9.99

Here is the manual.

I use a similar footswitch on my drill press. There are separate switches for the motor and light, so my footswitch is hard wired in series with the motor switch. It is very handy, and if the drill catches the work, or breaks, its quicker than letting go to turn off the regular switch. I can take a couple pictures, if anyone wants to see the modifications.

Yes it was. That's undoubtedly the answer. I guess both the red cover and the light bulb (neon?) went flying when I switched it off for the last time.

Thanks -- Terry

But since in the US with 110V, you don't know which is neutral and which is live and with 220V you have two lives, surely all your devices should have DP switches???

Mark Rand RTFM

It should have a polarized plug, or a three wire plug. Both only plug in one way. Also, all that is required is to switch the line, so a SPST is all that is required.