# electric fencer

Plugged in the electric fencer and the meter reads “short” but it still shocks the piss out of you. Don’t ask me how I know this.
Not having a volt indication will be a real problem, no way to know if grass etc. is knocking down the effectiveness. A fencer puts out a high volt burst a small percent of the time. On the order of 7K volts for 50 miliseconds once per second. Is there an easy way to add a volt meter? Just a relative indication is all that’s needed. or time to buy another unit? (\$250)
Karl
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wrote:

You could make a small coil and connect it to a galvanometer:
http://www.hometrainingtools.com/galvanometer--500-to-500-ua/p/EL-GALVAN1/
and pass one of the HV fence wires through it. If the resistance it too low you might get an idea of current flow. Good for a relative measurement (just not quantative).
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On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 17:26:05 -0500, Karl Townsend

If it is a DC pulse, like the device my father had many years ago, than a multi-meter with a series resister will measure voltage with the caveat that as you are measuring between the fence and ground your ground connection will have a large effect on the voltage that the meter reads.
--
Cheers,

John B.
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Pissed on it, did you ?

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On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 20:35:32 -0700, "PrecisionmachinisT"

Just see how long a spark you can draw from it. The old "weed chopper" woultd throw a good hat quarter inch spark and burn off 1 inch sumac.
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snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

What kind of hat did it throw? ;-)
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On Thu, 13 Jun 2013 09:51:46 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"

HOT
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snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca on Thu, 13 Jun 2013 17:25:37 -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

A hot hat? Must have been a fireman's hat. B-) -- pyotr filipivich "With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."
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On Thu, 13 Jun 2013 23:32:37 -0700, pyotr filipivich

It musta beed on fire from the arcing, Pete.
--
I have never understood why it is "greed" to want to keep the money you
have earned, but it is not greed to want take someone else's money.
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06:07:45 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

Ah, the hat for ol' Sparky - the firehouse dog. -- pyotr filipivich "With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."
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09:51:46 -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

He did say a "good hat" - so a Stetson, maybe? -- pyotr filipivich "With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."
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pyotr filipivich wrote:

Certainly not a Stovepipe, on a metalworking newsgroup. ;-)
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Karl Townsend wrote:

I'd add a neon lamp and a high-value series resistor, maybe a string of a couple dozen 100 K resistors. You need a bunch in series so they don't arc over. As long as the lamp is blinking, it is still working.
Jon
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systems.com says...

Karl,
Most fence chargers are prtetty simple, I have schematics of a few designs. What brand is yours?
Units with a meter typically connect the meter to a 1 or 2 turn secondary on the output transformer. Depending on the design of your charger, the meter curcuit can be as simple as a diode and a meter movement or somewhat more complex.
It would be well worth your while to open the charger up and take a look at what you have. It could be a bad meter movement, a bad diode or even a dead insect in the meter movement blocking motion. Supposedly, the movement is sealed os a bug can't get in, but as you probably know they can get into surprising places.
WayneJ
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Its a Parmak precision brand. Made in USA - KC MO
A proper repair would be huge. I did find this on the web http://www.dickselectricfencerrepair.com/ But likely, the repair will be about the same as a new one. Mine is a 6 Joule 7K volt rated unit. Now, I see you can get 10 Joule 12K volt units. Maybe its time to upgrade.
For years, I've moved a metal post close to the wire to make sure it pops a good arc. I'm thinking, make this accurate for a measurment. I'll just set up a stop with a threaded bolt, probably use 3/4x10 so each turn is 0.100". I know the fencer pops 1/4 to 3/8 when in top form, if it won't pop more than about 1/8 its time to find the problem.
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Karl Townsend wrote:

Make sure the insulators are clean. They will bleed off a lot of the energy if they are dirty. It goes without saying, but turn it off before you do the inspection. ;-)
See if you can find an old Pomona or B&K TV HV probe with a built in meter. You'll need to add a couple diodes to rectify the AC, but then it's a simple matter of clipping the lead to ground, and touching the probe to the wire.
Here is an example of a B&K on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/4d0d4bb550
Fluke, Heathkit & others made probes to use with a 10 Megohm input impedance meter, but they cost as much, or more than the probe type..
<http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC1.A0&_nkw=hv+probe&_sacat=0&_from=R40
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Tektronix made a really nice one -- good up to 40 KV. But beware. It takes a squirt of a HV dielectric fluid (which is really one of the now-banned refrigerants), so you are unlikely to get the full voltage range out of it. (And no, I don't remember if I ever knew what refrigerant they used -- just one of the FREON family. :-)
If you have some, a squirt will usually last a year or two before it all leaks out.
And it has four or five trimmer adjustments for proper waveshape at various frequencies. A *big* box on the BNC (with a collet lock-on to keep it from jiggling off. :-)
Enjoy,         DoN.
--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: < snipped-for-privacy@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
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"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

A newer refrigerant is being discussed as a possible replacement on the Tekscope Yahoo group right now.

I used to use my Heathkit HV probe on low voltage circuits, to prevent loading in very high impedance circuits. The solid state Heathkit had some very low voltage ranges, and the probe let you multiply them by 100.
A guy on the Tekscope Yahoo group builds a HV plug-in for the 7000 series. It will work to 7 kV. There is also a thread on how it's impossible to make affordable replacements for the extruded rails for 7000 series plug ins. One claims it can't be done in small quantities for under \$200 a set. He refuses to believe that it can be done in a decent home metalworking shop. I have no 7000 series gear, but from what I remember it wouldn't be that hard to make an acceptable replacement since they are looking to build custom plug-ins.
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I have a Tek D10 chassis and its guide rails wouldn't be difficult to make, though I'm not volunteering. I made some hard drive rails for Dell desktops that don't look a bit like the green originals, but work fine.
I've worked for some very talented electrical engineers who couldn't comprehend a mechanical shape unless they were holding a sample I'd made. jsw
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Jim Wilkins wrote:

The guy wants 20 sets. From what I remember, some aluminum bar stock and a table saw could make most of the part, and a mill could finish them. I gave up on him, he wants to destroy existing plug-ins rather than make new frames. I suggested that he ask on this group to see if anyone was willing to make them, and to get a price. He started ranting that no none could do it, and that they wouldn't do it for free, even if they could. A closed mind is a terrible thing. I've had to make irreplacable parts with nothing more than a hacksaw & file. He demands an exact clone of the Tektronix part, and would probably demand a Tek QA stamp on them.
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