For only 20 sets, the custom cutter stack for a horizontal mill
would probably not be worth the time and the custom grinding..
I used the horizontal mill and an index head to make a
replacement gear for use inside a differential vertical plugin. I think
that I posted a web page about the project a couple of years ago. :-)
If he is stripping a frame to make each, he probably would need
the front and rear panels too. The front is likely an injection
molding, but the rear is pretty simple sheet metal work, IIRC.
Well ... the QA stamp could be forged, too. :-)
The empty chassis for the TM-500 plugins would be a nice
starting point, except that they are not long enough. (I considered
using one (which I have) to make a test extender for the 'scope
mainframe, and this is how I know this.
Custom machined parts would offer him a better choice of mounting
certain parts -- such as those which need heat-sinking.
Are you a member of the Yahoo TekScopes group? Some of the people
there were engineers at Tektronix.
Here is a Wiki about tektronix products:
Here is a nice collection of Tektronix manuals.
Nope! I dislike web-based fora, and particularly yahoo groups.
(I've got a lot of that blocked from people trying to subscribe me to
groups without my agreement. :-)
Not sure whether I have that one in my collection of sources or
not. Lots of downloaded, printed, and comb-bound manuals. Lots of wear
on the HP 4600dn printer. :-) (And lots of opinions about different
formatting practices in offering scanned manuals. :-)
Hmm ... without checking mine out, I think that it could be
possible to set up a stack of cutters on the arbor of a horizontal
spindle mill, and make the necessary shape in one pass with long stock.
Then you *might* need to flip it over and mill the inside cavities.
I forget whether there is perforated metal in holes through the
rails. If so -- a bit more milling after flipping it over, and CNC would
be the winner there.
And of course, it could all be done with CNC. But with enough
of them to be made I think that a horizontal mill would win hands down,
at least for the bottom profile.
Page 144 of this manual shows the way they are made. Without one in
hand, it's the best reference that I can give you right now.
Sorry, that's a different manual for the same item.
O.K. You mean *pdf* page 151? The clickable links stop at
about page 119 as shown by xpdf. Same page number in acrobat reader.
I wish the BAMA folks would fix the filenames so they don't have
embedded spaces. A pain to fix. :-)
Anyway -- the basic part is pretty simple -- just a different
groove width for the bottom vs the top (for the pull latch).
The most difficult part would be the grooves in the edges which
are sort of like this (edge pointing up for ease of ASCII drawing):
| | | |
| ( ) |
This serves both to hold the snap-in side panels, and serves for
the screws to thread into to hold the end plates in place.
The groove and the angled lead-in would be easy to do with a
stack of three cutters on a horizontal mill (one pass for each side),
but the rounded bottom would probably have to be done with something
like a large dental burr -- and lots of coolant squirted down the
Aside from that -- the pattern of the rectangular holes in the
top can vary somewhat -- depending on whether clearance is needed for
controls at the very top of the front panel. (This based on examination
of only two examples -- a single-channel vertical plugin, and the text
formatter for the logic analyzer.
I was thinking that until I realized that the side panels need
at least the outer half of the round part for the edges to snap into.
And those occur at several points along the side panels.
Yeah, a 6 Joule unit will get your attention if it hits you!
I have a partial schematic for a smaller Parmak. Parmak uses a somewhat
more complicated metering circuit than some. One turn of wire around the
outside of the output transformer connects to a circuit consisting of a
rectifier, followed by an opamp integrator and meter driver.
If you are comfortable working on the circuit I'll be glad to send a
copy of the metering circuit. Although it's from a different model it's
likely to be quite similar except for a few component values. It would
be quick and easy to check the diodes, meter movement and most of the
caps and resistors without disconnecting anything.
Your test unit should work, but of course you have to go up and connect
it each time you check the fence. In my experience, the cheap test units
with multiple neon lights indicating voltage are good to check the
output, but won't last if left connected permanetly.
Be glad you have deer and not elk to keep out. The elk around here will
go through a 6 wire high tensile fence as if it wasn't there, hot or
not. They seem to prefer to bust through even if the fence is low enough
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