Factory reconditioned goods

Looking at the Husky 455 chain saw, called the rancher. Lots of sellers have factory reconditioned goods. Or manufacturer refurbished. What exactly are these? Returns? Buyers remorse? Just a lemon that wouldn't run? How much hesitation is there to buying a chain saw that is factory refurbished? Would you buy one, or go the extra hundred or so for new?

Steve

Reply to
Steve B
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You are an idiot.

Reply to
PrecisionmachinisT

Gunner Asch fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Gunner, having been in that industry for 22 years, I can say, no... that's not what refurbishing really is.

When a consumer item comes back for return, it goes right back to distribution, but seldom back to the manufacturer's plant facility.

At distro, it's hooked up and powered on.

Honest -- if it makes it through a boot/powerup/run cycle (whatever's appropriate for the equipment), it's tagged as "good", logged by serial number (in case it shows up again), and re-packaged as "refurbished".

A very few scrupulous depots will let the equipment burn in for 24 hours. In most, ONLY if a hard-bad problem shows up at initial power-on is any attempt made whatsoever to repair the unit.

Most returns are due to buyer's remorse or stupidity on the part of the buyer -- an inability to hook it up, or understand how to operate it. But with most companies, any units with intermittent problems are going right out into the marketplace again without anything done but applying a "factory refurbished" sticker.

LLoyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

My Husky 350 is owner-refurbished, several times. The starter and clutch springs break too easily, the kill switch wiring failed, the oiler-to-bar rubber seal went bad and a muffler gasket leak burned a hole into the oil chamber, a $125 repair part. I plugged the hole with Permatex and made a stainless steel heat shield instead. It's a good saw -when it works-.

I installed the starter cord as instructed, so it pulls tight one turn before the spring bottoms out, and I'm no big Swede. The broken spring snaps without deforming and appears to be two laminated pieces that break separately. I tempered a broken one to 520F but it still shattered just as easily.

So I bought a Stihl as backup and the first time I loosened the bar nuts one stud backed out. I had to saw a screwdriver slot in the end to hold it to remove the nut.

I used a McCulloch 3216 for ~ten years without a hint of trouble, until I loaned it to the landowner who let me cut firewood.

jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in news:jvob0f$kq9$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

That can't possibly be true. After all, Husky and Stihl are the only chain saws worth buying, and McCulloch is junk. Just ask Steve. He knows all about chain saws.

;-)

Reply to
Doug Miller

My McCulloch was nearly junk after one use by someone who should have known better.

I've seen a number of Husky 350s in the hands of tree workers in aerial buckets. They are lighter than the pro models and those guys don't cut continuously. The engine has the low-speed torque to ease into a tricky cut from idle, unlike my Stihl which bogs down at less than full throttle.

With a freshly ground chain the 350 cuts bar-length dry oak at about an inch a second, by estimation. I've watched a competition grind cut at least twice as fast.

jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

The one with the best local parts and repair support.

jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

There's a YouTube video of a V-8 chain saw, these two gorillas DROP it on an 18" log and it goes through like it wasn't even there, as if they'd dropped the saw on air! I'm guessing it is a Honda or similar V8.

Jon

Reply to
Jon Elson

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