Identifying a Sears Chain saw?

Ive got a pretty decent Craftsman marked chainsaw thats now needing a bit of maint. Chain seems to have stretched a bit as I cant tighten it
up anymore..running out of adjustment slot on the bar, and is pretty badly worn after years of sharpening, the Windsor sprocket nosed bar is getting tired (two piece nose) etc
I was told it was a Husky..then told it was a Sthil..but when I went did some web searching..it appears that it May...May be a Poulan..but maybe not.
3.7/18" Model Number 358.3548301 Serial # 1201-2250
The 358 prefixx comes up as a Poulan..and more research may indicate its a Poulan 3400 or 3700..but then on some cites it indicates those may be either made BY or FOR Husky. Or something else entirely.
Im rather confused by all this. Id of course rather buy the bits (chain adjuster) and filters etc online from the discount sites.
Sometime in the past..either I or the previous owner swapped the 18" bar for a longer one. Ive had it for at least 20 years along with one of the small common red 2.2 Craftsman/Poulans you can use one handed (not safely)
How is the bar measured? The Windsor bar I have doesnt have a size numbering system on it that I can id.
Any assistance would be appreciated. I know there are a number of small engine etc guys here who may know.
Im gonna need a new chain also..and perhaps a shorter bar, though I can live with the longer one I have, though its getting a bit worn in the groove. I only use them a couple times a year..but when I need em..I really need em.
Any suggestions on the type of chain to buy, for cutting telephone poles, 6x6s and the odd stump or two?
This saw still runs marvelously well, even after 6-9 months of storage ( I alwas put in some Stabil before putting it up) and I make a point of fireing all my gas equipment up at least once, if not twice a year.
Thanks
Gunner

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wrote:

I've yet to see a Sears chainsaw that wasn't a Poulan in the last 10-20 years or more.

Poulan tends to use the same chain adjuster on most saws. However one that old might need confirmation.


Good question. After working around these for 25 years I've yet to find a bar that measured close to name plate size. Basically it's approximately what's sticking out the end to of the chain saw.

I'll have to check (If I can remember to) my Oregon book to see if it has a listing for Sears (likely but it probably goes by name on the cover instead of model number).

Don't forget the sprocket.

My experience is that Saber,or Homelite chain used to be harder than Oregon chain. That's likely to of changed since then though. Nothing will hold up well on telephone poles and the like so a Oregon or similar chain sharpened frequently is probably as good as it gets.

Proper maintenance is the key to these things. The main problem now days is the additives to the gas eating up the plastic and rubber lines.
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http://www.oregonchain.com/sawch.htm
Martin Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH & Endowment Member NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member
Gunner wrote:

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What are the numbers on the side of the chain teeth! - that shows the chain pitch... That can get you to a Oregon bar and chain.
Once there - then you are in duck soup!
http://www.oregonchain.com/sawch.htm find the low kick back - then look for a bar set. Then vendors - everywhere - Ace to TC to ....
Martin Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH & Endowment Member NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member
Gunner wrote:

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Dunno about your area, but I have an excellent mower/saw shop nearby that could fix you right up; although you might decline the daughter that runs the counter. knowledgable guys; would know right off what you had, and needed. JR Dweller in the cellar
Gunner wrote:

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Gunner wrote:

Well I can not tell you what it is but I can tell you it is not a Husky or a Sthil . Measure the bar from the face of the saw , not the end of the dogs . There should be a number stamped in the bar that will tell you what to get as well as the chain size . If not measure the distance between the chain rivets to come up with a size as well as mike the drivers . With that in hand you should end up with the right size . Better yet take the entire saw to a good shop and they will get you set up right . Anything that used to reside nest to a road will have embedded dirt . That is hard on chains , for that reason I would opt for a semi chisel tooth . They cut a little slower when sharp than a chisel tooth but they will keep cutting when a tad dull . Bars can be re grooved . My guess is you could do it yourself if you had too . Luck Ken Cutt
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The only other rebadged saw that I haveseen at sears was a long long time ago and it was made by McCullouch. SAince that time frame I hafve yet to see any saws with a Crapsman label that was not a relabeled Poulan brand......Stihl or Husky is not and hsa never been rebadged as a Crapsman.....Husky may own Poulan but certainly does not relabel Husky saws......
If its a 3400 or 3700 that saw is probably well over 20+ years of age. I have had both of those saws and I will say they are not of the typical Poulan quality.They were a super good saw, a bit heavy but mine worked like a champ and never left me down.........and were usually used hard and put up wet all their life. The 3400 model was used hard for over 20 years........and all it cost me was chains and bars.........the 3700 was about the same way except it cost me a carb rebuilid.
wrote:

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My past experience with Craftsman is that the items may be made by a well known manufacturer, but that doesn't guarantee that the standard off the shelf parts will fit the Sears product. I bad a Craftsman lawnmower with an engine made by Tecumseh years ago, but even normal replaceable stuff like the muffler was different and only available from Sears.
Gunner wrote:

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