Identifying a Sears Chain saw?

I've yet to see a Sears chainsaw that wasn't a Poulan in the last

10-20 years or more.

Poulan tends to use the same chain adjuster on most saws. However one that old might need confirmation.

Good question. After working around these for 25 years I've yet to find a bar that measured close to name plate size. Basically it's approximately what's sticking out the end to of the chain saw.

I'll have to check (If I can remember to) my Oregon book to see if it has a listing for Sears (likely but it probably goes by name on the cover instead of model number).

Don't forget the sprocket.

My experience is that Saber,or Homelite chain used to be harder than Oregon chain. That's likely to of changed since then though. Nothing will hold up well on telephone poles and the like so a Oregon or similar chain sharpened frequently is probably as good as it gets.

Proper maintenance is the key to these things. The main problem now days is the additives to the gas eating up the plastic and rubber lines.

Mart> Ive got a pretty decent Craftsman marked chainsaw thats now needing a

What are the numbers on the side of the chain teeth! - that shows the chain pitch... That can get you to a Oregon bar and chain.

Once there - then you are in duck soup!

find the low kick back - then look for a bar set. Then vendors - everywhere - Ace to TC to ....

Martin Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH & Endowment Member NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member

Gunner wrote:

Well I can not tell you what it is but I can tell you it is not a Husky or a Sthil . Measure the bar from the face of the saw , not the end of the dogs . There should be a number stamped in the bar that will tell you what to get as well as the chain size . If not measure the distance between the chain rivets to come up with a size as well as mike the drivers . With that in hand you should end up with the right size . Better yet take the entire saw to a good shop and they will get you set up right . Anything that used to reside nest to a road will have embedded dirt . That is hard on chains , for that reason I would opt for a semi chisel tooth . They cut a little slower when sharp than a chisel tooth but they will keep cutting when a tad dull . Bars can be re grooved . My guess is you could do it yourself if you had too . Luck Ken Cutt

The only other rebadged saw that I haveseen at sears was a long long time ago and it was made by McCullouch. SAince that time frame I hafve yet to see any saws with a Crapsman label that was not a relabeled Poulan brand......Stihl or Husky is not and hsa never been rebadged as a Crapsman.....Husky may own Poulan but certainly does not relabel Husky saws......

If its a 3400 or 3700 that saw is probably well over 20+ years of age. I have had both of those saws and I will say they are not of the typical Poulan quality.They were a super good saw, a bit heavy but m>>Ive got a pretty decent Craftsman marked chainsaw thats now needing a

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