filing flats on a socket

I'm making a special tool out of a 3/8 drive socket. It'll have to be turned by a wrench or gripped by vise jaws. I'll file flats on the square end.

Should the flats be parallel with the square's sides, or have the point in the middle? This is a high-torque situation.

Reply to
maxq
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I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel:

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Reply to
wws

That's one of those things that are so cool that I buy them and then never use them. LOL

Reply to
Bob Engelhardt

Can't access the end - tool slides along an axle. Can't drill a hole crossways either (well you could but it wouldn't help any).

Reply to
maxq

Can't access the end - tool slides along an axle. Can't drill a hole crossways either (well you could but it wouldn't help any).

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Offset box wrench?

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

You might want to post the problem, what you're trying to do and see if anyone has a different solution ;-)

Reply to
Leon Fisk

Reply to
Clare Snyder

Why do you need a socket? can't you just use a wrench on the hex nut or whatever it is you are attempting to turn??

Reply to
Clare Snyder

Long-time lurker, infrequent poster. WAG Could you modify a socket-headed end wrench so the socket head is "just deep enough"? Like others have said, "not enough information". How much past the drive end are you actually looking to file off? IMHO Something you can file and high-torque sound mutually exclusive. Signed, "former metals shop dropout".

Reply to
foster.jon.m

Turning a 1/4" hex shank nut driver with a Chapman hex ratchet is similar, and difficult to control especially in the tight places where it's necessary.

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

Old freewheel remover, the correct tool is NLA.

The freewheel has an internal splined face for the remover. The remover has to slide over the axle and into the freewheel top, axle pokes out the end of the remover.

The socket will get matching splines ground from its outer circumference at the nut end.

A 12-point 9/16" socket is the right size, plus I can index it off a bolt head - mount bolt in locked lathe chuck, head out with a strong spring between the chuck face and the socket (mounted on the bolt with the nut end outward). Dremel with 5 stacked cutoff disks on carriage, grind a slot, pull the socket towards the face and switch points, grind the next slot.

Reply to
maxq

On 6/18/2020 4:09 AM, maxq wrote: > I'm making a special tool out of a 3/8 drive socket. It'll have to be > turned by a wrench or gripped by vise jaws. I'll file flats on the > square end. >

Start with a quality impact socket, have a hex ground on it, and use a top name tube wrench. I suspect anything else would be an exercise in frustration unless you can find an appropriate socket that already has a hex on it like some spark plug sockets. I would probably not use an actual spark plug socket. They might make one that can handle more, but torque specs on plugs are pretty low. Why borrow extra risk on what sounds like an trapped installation.

Reply to
Bob La Londe

You could drill a hole, and use a pin spanner.

Reply to
Bob La Londe

Yeah, know exactly what you're talking about and probably have the one you need. Think I have two of them, most likely fit old Shimano

5/6 sprocket free wheels. You're welcome to borrow them if you're near Grand Rapids, MI area :)

Before buying them I was able to use a large nut that fit the spline (sorta) and had the threads drilled out of it. Use the axle nut to hold it square. Should do that with the real ones too. Have to back off the axle nut some as you make progress...

It's been a long time since I last messed with the freewheel. Don't ride much anymore... There are some listed on Ebay:

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socket

In case you haven't checked there yet ;-)

Reply to
Leon Fisk

I might ask, did you look at the Park Tools catalog?

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Reply to
John B.

Old freewheel remover, the correct tool is NLA.

The freewheel has an internal splined face for the remover. The remover has to slide over the axle and into the freewheel top, axle pokes out the end of the remover.

The socket will get matching splines ground from its outer circumference at the nut end.

A 12-point 9/16" socket is the right size, plus I can index it off a bolt head - mount bolt in locked lathe chuck, head out with a strong spring between the chuck face and the socket (mounted on the bolt with the nut end outward). Dremel with 5 stacked cutoff disks on carriage, grind a slot, pull the socket towards the face and switch points, grind the next slot.

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Something like this?

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A split shaft collar might hold the socket more securely than the spring. If it won't close on an undersized shank you can grind the joining face without ruining it for other use. Bolt threads crush and don't run true if the chuck is tightened on them enough to resist cutting force.

I've milled several similar splined shafts from O-1 drill rod, without hardening it.

If your lathe has loose change gears an adapter to mount one on the left end of the spindle for indexing would be useful. I used a 52 tooth change gear to index and mill 13 splines to fit a motorcycle drive sprocket.

Reply to
Jim Wilkins
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Actually have four of them but only one splined. Checked an old Shimano Freewheel that I know it fits and a 9/16 socket will slip inside. A sharp edged 3/4 nut will catch the splines (12) in the freewheel... Sounds like you need one a bit smaller in diameter than this :(

With all the metric and standard nuts around nowadays I would try modifying one of those first. Even better if you happen to find a coupling nut that fit, would give a longer length to work with...

Reply to
Leon Fisk

You got one of those 12 spline 20mm antiques?? Try a 3/4" AF coupling nut drilled out to fit over the axle if necessary - I believe the coupler nut for 1/2" allthread is 3/4" 20mm is .787 so it is about .030" smaller but it might kust be big enough to grab 6 of the 12 splines and get it off.

Reply to
Clare Snyder

Got mine from Ebay for $1.50 or something. Dunno bout the old style, but they might have one.

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if a 9/16" socket works, just weld a flat bar across the 3/8 sq opening and you're good. (drill for axle protrusion if necessary)

Reply to
Larry Jaques

I'm guilty of the same practice. I shop at $1 Gewjaws R Us.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

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