I cleaned the small shop out and pushed the truck in. Like putting two
pounds of stuff in a one pound bag. The truck started immediately after I
put it in the shop, not even slow to turn over or anything. Lights hardly
dimmed while turning over.WTF?
I guess I'll replace both battery cables tommorrow and look for the slow
battery drain. The whole truck has Minnesota cancer and I guess I'm due for
stuff like this.
"Karl Townsend" wrote: (clip) The truck started immediately after I put it
in the shop, not even slow to turn over or anything. Lights hardly dimmed
while turning over.WTF?
Not "WTF" at all. In one of my posts I said, " The starter could be
with rust, or (less likely) with ice." Evidently it was ice.
You may want to take the battery into an auto parts store for testing.
The car battery pulled this type of trick on me 2 or 3 times before it
just crapped right out. Won't start, poke, prod, don't find problem,
starts up...if a cell has high resistance, the lights light fine, but
the starter draws more current than the battery can supply. The battery
charger sees the thing as fully charged, since the high resistance
drives the voltage up when charging.
Then again, on the truck, the starter did the same thing (Won't start,
poke, prod, don't find problem, starts up...) Battery tested fine.
Starter can also be tested, but is more of a pain to pull out and test.
If the battery is fine with a load test (not just "the charger thinks
it's fine), start looking elsewhere (pull the starter, etc).
The backhoe had a bad crimped on connector on a battery cable that
looked OK, but had high resistance.
Fooli$h to replace part$ without testing. Cables are dead-easy to test
(put an ohmmeter on them), but are not the most likely culprits;
battery, starter, starter solenoid, dirty connections (no replacement
needed, just clean and grease.)
Hold the key on start for about 5 to 10 seconds and then look for a hot
spot on the power wiring going to the starter, battery terminals,
starter terminals and such. If the whole wire is evenly warm you have
a bad starter or a siezed engine.
On Mar 6, 12:38 am, "Karl Townsend" < email@example.com
remove .NOT> wrote:
gee mate - your are doing it hard - 10 degrees and icy slush on the
floor....no wonder you dont want to get into pulling out the starter
One thing you did has me wondering, and it comes back to the battery
You say the charger meter indicated full charge - no, it doesn't, it
tells you that there are 12 volts on the battery terminals. It doesnt
tell you the actual state of each cell - 1 can be high resistance, and
will act as a choke if you try and draw a LOT of current out of it, ie
the starter motor. (I assume its a real truck, not some pissy little
thing pretending to be a truck, so its got a big motor. And if its a
diesel, makes it 10 times worse...)
Why do I think this - well, you say the headlights DIED when you hit
the starter button. Go very dim, yes, but DIE - that, to me, indicates
that the battery is crook. And it also shows that the starter motor is
TRYING to draw heaps of current...
I ask again - can you try another battery, is the battery you just
fitted a new one, or a spare thats been lying around the place for
years - (and has been through the same winter that killed the original
battery) see if you can borrow one from a neighbour, or even if the
neighbour can bring his car round and you try and jump start the
All the other advice about checking terminals, bolts, cables etc is
But, been round long enough to know that, sometimes, you get
sidetracked into a scientific, complex explanation when its really
And so saying all that, you are staring at the truck, and I am sitting
in my workshop with the air conditioner running comp laing about the
heat....(Just coming into our Autumn, but Gunners Martian SUV's
emissions have stuffed up the seasons here - still hot...)
BTW - loved your apple testing explanation, got sucked in just as much
as the schoolkids did....well done!. I guess American country people
like setting up their city cousins just as much as ours do....
On Mon, 05 Mar 2007 16:47:49 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Gunner
Erm, that's called the Negative Battery Cable, Gunner. You've never
heard of one? <g> I saw quite a few (half a dozen?) fray at the
block end connector when I was wrenching for a living, working on all
sorts of older cars.
Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take,
but by the moments that take our breath away.
Yes..but I was a bit nonplussed by having a vehicle that has a unknown
current draw and someone suggesting check the ground connection. If it
were bad..it would not conduct..and if it were good..what current draw
is it performing? Its simply a conduit.
Which reminds me..I had a similar problem with my old Chevy van..and the
draw turned out to be the glove box lightbulb. The switch had failed and
the bulb remained on, even with the glovebox closed. Took about a week
for the battery to run down.
"Liberalism is a philosophy of consolation for Western civilization as it
- James Burnham
Except with cars from the UK - at least my MGA was positive
ground. It also used two 6V batteries in series -- one on either side
of the driveshaft behind the seats (no need to say *front* seats, as
there were no back seats. :-)
This made it a bit more difficult to install some things made
for the USA market. :-)
Email: < firstname.lastname@example.org> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
"Ken Davey" wrote: Get a small hand-held compass. Hold it close to any
wire/circuit. Needle will deflect on the slightest current.
That's a really NEAT idea. Since you will be working around a lot of steel,
don't expect the compass to point the same way as you move around. It might
be a good idea to have a second person to make and break the circuits, so
you can look for pulsing in the compass.
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