Generator help

Ok I've got one for the electric wizards,

The facts: 1 "John Reiner" 2K watt generator brush type w/ a Wisconsin robin engine. picked up used over the summer, worked well put about 10hrs on it. There is no nameplate on the generator end.

The Problem: Hooked it up the other night to run my boiler and it would only put out 80v. I manually goosed the throttle/gov and it picked right up to 129v and stayed there under load no prob ran it for about 4hrs. Next morning it starts out ok but drops to 30v and stays there. Engine seems to be fine w/constant rpms throughout. I can't find any shorts in the windings , no burnt or loose wires the brushes look ok. I have no paper on this unit and a Google yielded little of use.

I'm not sure what to test next,I have a multi meter/amp and can set up for a load test but no scope. Any suggestions?

Andrew

Reply to
AndrewV
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You said it's a "brush type"; by which you mean it has an "old style" rotating field powered by DC ?

What type of regulator does it use?

Is it a sealed 'module', or a circuit-board, or just a couple of power-resistors and "transformer-looking things" (saturable-reactor regulator) ??

The first thing to do is measure the voltage across the field...and see what it reads when the genset's working properly. See if it's steady, or jumping around wildly.

If it's jumping UP while the output-V is glitching DOWN; then you likely have a stuck brush. I.e., it's stuck in the holder; and not pressing firmly against the slip-ring. Pretty common problem.

I have an engine-driven Lincoln welder in the yard-truck which does this at least once a winter. I have to let it warm up a minute or two; and smack it on the side a couple times ; then it will suddenly kick in. Just isn't doing it often enough to motivate me to go through the whole disassembly process...

fwiw, a lot of the gensets in your category will run 20-40vdc on the field; and take about 1-3 amps flowing in the field at full output.

Normally, the field power is derived from the main-windings; via a bridge-rectifier and some power resistors. In a high-end genset; there will also be a current-transformer; which is used to sense the load-current, and increase the field-voltage proportionally. This eliminates almost all load-induced sag. I kinda doubt that little unit has one; but thought I should mention it for completeness.

good luck with it...sounds like a nice little unit.

Reply to
metal

Yes

not sure

no on the sealed module or circuit board In the box (where the 120 outlets are) there is a transformer and 2 capicters about 5" long 1.5" around.

I will measure as you sugest but I know the brushes move freely and make good contact w/ slip ring.

yes on the bridge-rectifier not sure about the rest I might not know what the parts look like.

It was worked well and it was cheap so it doesn't owe me anything. It seems to be rugedly built (2k gen weighs 120 pounds) and once if figure out whats wrong it should be easy to repair. If I get a chance later I'll put a picture in the dropbox.

Thanks for the reply

Andrew

Reply to
AndrewV

'Metal' has some suggestions for the electric side - but there's another sore spot that's the more likely source of the problem. If it's a brush type machine and it's only used intermittently, the brushes get stuck in their holders (or wear out after long use), the brush pressure springs get weak or break, and/or the slip rings get dirty and make poor contact.

Ideal Industries still (100 plus years) sells commutator cleaning stones pre-mounted on a stick, go ask at a local electrical wholesale house. Look at your generator first to see if you need the 'straight' or 'angled' style.

You stuff the working end of the cleaning stone in through the generator's side access hole and lightly wipe off the crud with the engine running, and the output voltage miraculously pops up...

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Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman

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