Generator summer project

My limited experience is you might be troubled by soot buildup in the stack. The exhaust gases will cool and the acid and soot will build up.

Maybe it will work OK.

Bill K7NOM

You need more bandwidth or smaller pics.

Straight length of pipe should not be a problem. You do have several (3?) sharp bends that look like they are giv>

you need some length of flexible exhaust hose close to the engine.

I don't think you could run it another 18 feet with that size pipe without affecting the engine. If it were me, I would see how hot the exhaust is at the current end of the pipe. If it is not all that hot, I would go to 1 1/2 or 2 inch pvc pipe for the extension. My guess in that it is not very hot, but I would centainly check before going to plastic.

You could also arrange the PVC so it is centered around the exist>

Yeah, sorry about the slow D/L speed. I'm hosting this on my own machine...Optimum Online lets you open port 80 if you pay for their "speedboost", but they throttle traffic to that port. Otherwise I get over

I think you are choking the exhaust too much already! I would step up to 1-1/2" pipe, or even some 2" exhaust tubing. Greg

What is that flex hose on the exhaust? Is it rated for the temps and vibration it will see? Greg

I've had numerous ISPs in the numerous places I've lived, and the one I have now is only the second time ever I've had port 80 blocked. Solution: run the web server on port 1234. (Though I do have a web host, and put stuff there intended for public consumption, and only use the local 1234 for stuff intended for family and friends.)

Interestingly, I'm working on a very similar project. I used an off-the-shelf hand truck to which I'll weld a hitch so I can haul it whever I want with the lawn tractor. The generator set will be semi-permanently attached to the truck, and I'll also have a spot for securing the welder.

I've only got a single 15 amp 117v circuit to the garage, so needless to say, that won't run a welder, and barely runs a compressor + lights.

My thought at the moment is to make a "garage" for it inside the garage, which will have some foam baffles for noise control, and a "quick disconnect" exhaust so I can plug it into a heat exchanger from an old furnace I have lying around. The heat exchanger should help quiet the exhaust noise before being fed outdoors, as well as serving to siphon off some of that exhaust heat for the garage.

I'm still in the process of "laying it out" but as it progresses, I'll take some photos.

Note from a newbi

The diameter could be better and a stack fire inside the pipe from soot buildup is a problem but its heavy pipe and the fire would be contained although somewhat pretty and sparky. B But the reason you have lured me out of lurkerdom is the stack needs a rain hat, perhaps an inverted fruit can with an inch of heavy screen mushed into it to hold it above the top of the pipe. If the genset is off and water goes down the stack and into the exhaust port this becomes a bit of a problem for the crankshaft when it tries to compress the water.

cool idea though, how does it work for sound levels, I would think it was a big change for the better.

Tom

My dad uses a tomato paste can to cover the exhaust of his tractor. I admit to chasing the can downrange a time or two after starting the tractor...

--Glenn Lyford

Seems like a tractor exhaust rain cap (flapper) might be a useful addition.

Don Young

Yeah, the starter motor will just turn it into a big air compressor, and the exhaust system will pressurize until it finds the weak point. With luck being what it usually is, the damage will be expensive.

Short piece of aircraft cable, eye on each end, and two screws. ;-)

It's also called a Weatherhead. Works like a charm - available in a dozen sizes to clamp onto the end of the pipe from 1-1/2" to 6". NAPA has or can get them - Balkamp part number 7031500 through 7031525.