Ground and used my first MoMax tool

Jan 28, 2007 44 Replies

I recently bought a Harbor Freight 6" double carbide grinder:



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I then mounted a Norton aluminum oxide wheel on it. This was the first drama. Although both are nominally 6", the HF wheels are slightly under, and the Norton is slightly over, and didn't fit, hitting the inside of the guard. After a few hours of work with an air die grinder, it now fits.



Trued the wheel up, and fixed the water drip (shorten pipe, make gasket thicker so valve arm points in the right direction.



Ground a piece of 5/16 by 3" MoMax bar to be a flycutter bit.



Used it in the Millrite to face off a piece of hot-rolled steel I've used as an anvil for ~40 years, using black sulfur oil as the lubricant. The block is 2" by 4" by 9". Machined one of the 2x4 faces flat, and chamfered the 4 edges with a 45-degree "saw" (really goes in a horizontal mill).



Generated lots of smoking curly little chips. Haven't tried for blue yet.



Joe Gwinn


Nicely done, Joe.

Try to avoid the blue chips. Anything beyond a light straw yellow chip will lead to premature edge death of the tool.

Harold

Did you use plate wheels, which are what is supposed to go in there...or standard wheels?

Gunner

"Deep in her heart, every moslem woman yearns to show us her t*ts" John Griffin

I was wondering the same thing since using the side of a wheel isn't looked at favorably. (not saying I've never do it).

Wes S

Plate wheels:

The picture at the above URL isn't correct. The catalog picture is accurate. The stone material is pure white.

I also had trouble getting the plate to fit over the hub in the grinder, and had to enlarge the center hole by a few thousandths.

I have to ask - is this restricted to moslem women?

Joe Gwinn

My dreams, dashed. Blue looks so much more dramatic than light yellow.

But the smoke helps.

Joe Gwinn

Side of the wheel? Who..me? Ah...er...

Gunner, shuffling from foot to foot....

"Deep in her heart, every moslem woman yearns to show us her t*ts" John Griffin

Holy sweet jumping Crom...$97 for a plate wheel? Fuckmerunning. Ive been paying between $15-25 for plate wheels, new.

Thats fairly common with the imports. It would have been better to spin up the grinder, with the bolts removed! and hit the hub with a bit of emory cloth. Ive got an actual Baldor thats also snug, and an import thats perfect fit. Shrug

I cant speak for the Amish..but there was this Mennonite girl back when I was growing up......

Gunner

"Deep in her heart, every moslem woman yearns to show us her t*ts" John Griffin

Carbide can usually take blue chips, as long as you use plenty of oil as a cutting lube. Though thermal shock can be a problem. I tend to run to blue chips, as Im usually in a hurry.

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Gunner

"Deep in her heart, every moslem woman yearns to show us her t*ts" John Griffin

Wholesale Tool has 46 and 60 grit wheels for $59

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bought one awhile back, haven't installed it yet. It's branded 'Bay State'; never heard of them. WT also lists import aluminum oxide wheels, 46 grit only, for $25
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couldn't find anyone else currently listing plate mounted 6x1-1/4 aluminum oxide wheels when I was looking a few months ago.

David Merrill

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never heard of them.

They were a company near Boston. I don't think they exist anymore, but someone may have gotten the name. Or simply started using it.

I bought a used 320-grit diamond hand lap made by Bay State. On the handle was a US patent number: 2,420,859, which covers the composition the hard white stuff containing the diamond dust.

Aside from needing to be flattened (using silicon-carbide sandpaper and kerosene face-up on a surface plate), it works perfectly. It floated around the used tool store for a long time, until I noticed it. I suspect that nobody knew what it was.

.

Thanks. I'll look into these. I know Gunnar went Gack! at Norton's price. But the wheel seems to work very well. I was more-or-less following Harold Vordos' advice on what abrasive to get. If I recall, he didn't think much of asian grinding wheels, and I only need one learning experience at a time.

Joe

Where from?

I was afraid I'd go too far in the soft aluminum.

Joe

Looks like some theatrical impression of the inner circles of Hell.

All I got was smoke coming off the tool, and the flying chips. I did the second face today, and ran even faster than before (once I cleaned the mill-scale layer off), and the smoke came mostly from the tool bit.

I'm using the acid-brush approach. What kind of oil is pouring from the spout above the toolbit in your setup?

Joe Gwinn

Joe Gwinn

It's branded 'Bay

Not to worry. They're an old and trusted name, very much like Norton. They used to be made in the US----don't know if they still are.

Harold

much more dramatic than light yellow.

When I took a machine shop class many years ago, the instructor said the chips ought to be blue. At least that is what I remember. See how long your tool lasts making blue chips. Add to that the time it takes to touch up the tool on the grinder. If the tool lasts about an hour, you are probably ahead as far as chips produced. You definately don't want the tool to last all day.

Dan

Okay, so I'm late and catching up, but Gunner wrote on Sun, 28 Jan 2007 18:16:48 GMT in rec.crafts.metalworking :

I thought that was the whole point of carbide tools - to make a smoking blue chips. ("Smoking Blue Chip", sounds like either a Middle weight yuppie Boxer, or some organic Cajun snack food)

tschus pyotr

=============== Most likely he did, but this is for manufacturing where time is money and the machinery tends to be much more massive. If you are satisfied with the machining rate and are getting good results/tool life with straw, then why up the speed?

I'll creep up on it. I have been raising the speed of the flycutter as I gained experience. I suppose the only way to learn how far one can push it is to push it too far, once. I've yet to break a MoMax bar, but I have broken a 1/2" HSS endmill (by accidentally feeding too fast).

I did regrind the tool bit between planing the first side yesterday, and planing the second side today. I had a almost square corned yesterday, and the finish was rougher than I liked. The rake wasn't quite enough either, being about +8 degrees.

Today, I rounded the tip, and raised the rake to about +17 degrees. (The relief remained at +10 degrees.) The sound made as the bit generated chips was a lot smoother, and the machined surface was quite smooth. (Part of the sound was from cutting black mill scale, but still...)

Still had lots of smoke, and made curly little chips that looked like compression springs.

I did get some surface marks caused by chips getting back into the action, despite steady use of a chip brush to clear the chips away. I would guess that the solution here is flood lubrication/cooling to wash the chips away.

Joe Gwinn

Good old fashion high sulphur cutting oil. Its all I use in the shop, unless Im using a mister on some mill jobs.

Gunner

"Deep in her heart, every moslem woman yearns to show us her t*ts" John Griffin

Got a Dremal took and a cutoff wheel? You can grind chip breakers into your tool bit easily enough.

Ayup. Flood is everything.

Gunner

"Deep in her heart, every moslem woman yearns to show us her t*ts" John Griffin

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