So, if someone wanted to preserve their guns, say maybe in the bottom of a well,pond, or underground, what would be the best way to store it? I'm wondering about the vacuum bagging, keep the moisture and air off the gun. The problem with the vacuum bagging might be if a hole from a scuff in the bag, it draws in water. Another idea would be to make a container, air tight, weight to be heavier than the water (or whatever) it displaces, then pressurize it with ?? (Nitrogen?) or whatever would hinder oxidation. I also thought of dipping the whole thing in wax, not sure how to remove all the wax upon retrieval.
"Excuse me Mr. Murderer, I realize this is a home invasion, but could you please wait while I go dig up my gun?"
"You're from the government here to confiscate my gun? And you're gonna tear my house apart if I don't hand it over?"
And digging it up for use after the apocalypse is futile. Even if you're a perfect shot, your six-shooter will benefit you a maximum of six times. Or maybe a hundred times if the box-o-bullets didn't get wet.
A month in, you'd trade it for a can of corn.
There's only one place for your gun...loaded and within reach...and nobody else living in or visiting your home to have an accident...no exceptions.
If you don't do that, might as well not own a defensive weapon. And that's the right choice for most of us.
Sounds like you want to "can" them, I believe canning supplies are still easy to get in the USA? First clean and oil the guns in question (after shooting 'em enough to be familiar and useful), then add a layer of protective grease and add the spares you might need in the long term (firing pins, extractors, spare springs etc.) similarly prepared (small "tobacco" tins sold in your local headshop would be good for the spares kit). Vacuum bag the guns after flushing with nitrogen, pop a silica gel dessicant bag in with each gun/spares kit. Bagged gun in a bigger bag (full of appropriate rounds, similarly treated) and vacuum seal that inside the can, then fill the can with wax / grease and seal on the top.
A can full of gun and ammo would probably be denser than the water you store it in, though it might be hard to find if the water's deep...
Long guns might be more difficult, but the same ideas could be applied to (e.g.) surplus ammo cans if they were field-stripped before packing? Or you could TIG up suitable containers from stainless / ally if you have the required skills...
Will these be "held in reserve for the Apocalypse"? If not, it *does* make more sense to keep them in use and yourself familiarised!
The best would be to take a stainless steel container, such as a stainless stock pot, put the gun in, fill with grease almost to the top, and then TIG weld shut.
If welded properly, it could last hundreds of years.
After I shoot Mr. Murderer and they confiscate my gun, I'll need to come up with another one somewhere.
My assault rifles and high capacity mags? I sold them.
They may be useful to keep the thieves away from my can of corn, or out of my garden, or to hunt. A man with a gun can get hundreds of pounds of deer meat around here, a lot better than a can of corn that you can't keep thieves from stealing.
I don't need a dozen guns loaded and ready to fire, a half dozen should be enough. A few spare banned guns in retrievable locations would be nice to have if needed.
I'm not wanting to preserve "a" protective weapon, maybe a few spare protective weapons in case my protective weapons are taken or stolen. Perhaps even some emergency homemade protective weapons.
The plumbing for my pool is PVC pipe laid underground for at least 25 years circulating chlorinated water with no problems. Certainly it would not take as much physical abuse as SS or copper.
8" PVC with one end cap well glued and the other end a screw in gasketed cap that has been well greased before sealing.
Best way is to use a vacuum bagger big enough to seal the firearm and other contents in their own bags. Coat the firearm with a good Break Free coating, bag, seal and then bury standing up, next to anything steel, such as a fence post etc etc, and only about 6" deep to the screw in cap.
6" PVC works for most arms. Place a complete "kit" with each firearm. Arm, ammo, magazines, basic cleaning materials (a simple pull through works along with a toothbrush), firestarting gear, magazine pouches, a knife, maybe a hatchet and so forth.
Each tube will enable one person to have enough gear on hand to handle a situation of at least 3 days time..preferably 7 days. This includes a roll of butt wipe, a gallon or two of water, eats and as forth.
Its considered best to cut a disk of 3/4" plywood to fit roughly in the tube, with a rope knotted through the disk and dropped into the tube first. that way all items can be removed by simply tugging on the rope if its too long to reach the bottom by hand. The last thing into the tube..hence out of the tube first..should be the firearm/magazines and spare ammo. Magazines should be loaded 3/4 full before bagging. This means that they can be stored for many years without the springs going soft, and fired immediately after installing them into the rifle.
a good pvc tube, well sealed, is waterproof for a century.
Id recommend using the thicker walled Gray colored pvc, simply because its stouter than standard white pvc, but it is more expensive.
The same method can..can be used in dirt banks if placed horizontally and can be buried with the same method..a simple post hole digger, however camoflauging the end of the pipe becomes more problematic. Ive seen such installations at the end of well houses and other structures placed against hillsides. Covering them with landscaping rock can be done on gentle hillsides, however it does leave them open to detection by metal detectors. Hence its best to bury them along side structural steel that is "normal" to the area...IE fence posts and so forth. And it makes them more difficult to spot if ground penetrating radar is used.
Im familiar with one property that uses old 12" oil field pipe as parking lot posts. The tubes were inset about 5" from the top of the pipe, then a thin round piece of plywood as a cover..then filled with mortor simulating a concrete filled pipe. Painted a bright color they are simply..marker/divider posts.
Similar applications by installing the pipe inside of structural I beam and then covered with paneling in shops and barns are also used, though are less secure to some respects than burial.
Gunner
The methodology of the left has always been:
Lie
Repeat the lie as many times as possible
Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
Or simply shoot the can owner. You hate that thought dont you? Cant get it into your little mush filled skull that bad people will simply shoot you for your food and you will be utterly defenseless to them.
So you only own (1) firearm? Interesting.
So you dont own a defensive weapon. Good!
Header info added to the list of targets to hit.
Gunner
The methodology of the left has always been:
Lie
Repeat the lie as many times as possible
Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
Ignoramus1274 wrote in news:xbSdnfJSoISqwH7NnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
I worked in Harold ("Doc") Edgerton's lab at MIT when I was in grad school. He had a couple of thick stainless steel underwater camera housings that had gotten snagged & lost looking for the Monitor civil war ironclad. They were retrieved a number of years later (~10?), and they were heavily corroded. Stainless steel is OK, but there's no easy way to guarantee against crevice corrosion when it's in a nasty environment for a long time.
I just sold some salt spreaders off of 17 year old trucks. The truck dump beds are shot, but the stainless looks like new, barest traces of rust on the welds.
It depends on the stainless. 316 is salt water type.
SS 317 is used in most transformer cases (power pole) and in the salt areas - 316. 317 is nice, but it will rust as does 303.....
I have 316 in the shop and it just sits there. Steel of allows and some SS versions rust or lightly rust.
I have Naval Bronze that had been under water on the equator for over 20 some odd years - and in my shop for another 45. No general corrosion but a beautiful patina and some small green near a brazing point.
Some Naval Bronze lasts nicely for a few years but stains. It becomes an issue on exact alloy.
Hello, I'm new and strolled upon this group and would like an opinion...I see ther e are many!!
I'm going to start marketing an user friendly underground storage vault in
3 sizes. It will easily store long rifles, ammo, food supplies, money, etc. rust resistant, water proof, to be placed in back yard or ?, easy inst allation, easy access is lockable w tamper resistant clasp, lid can be hidd en with a bush, fake rock, old dog house , stump etc. very affordable and p urchase can be with precious metals (for those who understand the value hal f of price can be bartered w metals). Market price is affordable for home o wners who don't have helicopters and yachts like many vault owners!! LOL. I 'm talking average Joe. Looking for distributors at gun shows, gun dealers, survival meetings etc. The website will be up shortly and you are the first to hear and has been p roven to exceed market competitors, which are very few for this market. Our early response from consumers has been overwhelmingly positive due to t he practical nature of use, installation and affordability. Keep it dry, hidden, locked, quiet and safe. Interest?? Appreciate the feed back and will have more soon. John
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