Gunsmithing advice please

Have you checked with Gun Parts and others for a replacement barrel?

They show barrels for $50, but are currently "sold out" which means not very much actually...give em a call. and see. Also...its very easy to install a blank barrel in this rifle. Very easy.

They are not particularly uncommon in some areas, and as the design is a take-down..simply replacing the barrel should be quite easy

As for the liner...Id go with the Long Rifle liner. It is properly throated and properly chambered (usually) for the longer cartridge..which the Short is not.

Acraglass is very easy to do, will not change the color of your current bluing in the slightest and will last as long as the rifle does. I prefer the glue method in any rimfire, and some light centerfires.

Gunner

-- "Confronting Liberals with the facts of reality is very much akin to clubbing baby seals. It gets boring after a while, but because Liberals are so stupid it is easy work." Steven M. Barry

Sounds like someone who didn't want the rifle to be fired. Plugging the muzzle risks explosive barrel fragments.

When I was a boy, the family next door (traditional Jews) had a rifle in the attic, with the barrel totally plugged. Not sure I ever looked to see what kind of rifle. I guess they don't believe in working fire arms.

Can you remove the stock and action, heat the barrel, and drive the obstruction with a rod from the back?

I'm not a gunsmith. But, my guess is the LR barrel liner will handle shorts, but not the reverse.

Adhesive, I have no knowledge to share.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

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So, when you reline a new barrel do you have to drill out the old one to accept the liner?

Isn't that a process that's fraught with possibilities to turn a straight- shooting gun into something that gives anyone in the world the ability to shoot as accurately as me?

(I _can_ hit the side of a barn with a shotgun. But I may as well use any old metal pipe: it's just as effective, and it doesn't bend up the shotgun.)

Or do you drill out the barrel enough oversize that the straightness is established by the liner?

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If you have the ability to bore the barrel for a liner, why not just drill the plugged end out to 9/32 or 5/16 X 2 inches deep to remove the steel plug to start. This is equivalent to simply cutting off the end, but retains the original look, front sight, etc. and the price is right. This will give you a chance to shoot the rifle before you put a lot of time and money in to it, and may be adequate for your needs if you are shooting 22 CB caps or shorts. Sort of an extremely deep rebate crowning.

Yes, of course.

Yes and no. The drill tends to follow the existing bore and, depending on who does the work, the drilled hole may well be reamed which helps straighten it.

Crooked barrels aren't really uncommon. See

The liner is not really very stiff. It cannot be depended on to establish straightness.

I did this long ago. The damage extends into the barrel at least 4 inches. The bullets hit the target sideways. So it is obvious that the bullets are tumbling. This is my reason for installi9ng a liner. Eric

True indeed and rather common in this sort of situation, be it rimfire or centerfire. This was a very common fix for miltiary arms with bad rifling at the muzzle..the effects of steel cleaning rods applied too often from the wrong end

Gunner

Liberals - Cosmopolitan critics, men who are the friends of every country save their own. Benjamin Disraeli

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It may be helpful to go deeper and/or bigger with the counter bore. some URLs that may be of assistance:

FWIW -- did you try the ammunition in another rifle to verify that its not the problem?

Should the bore exit not be consistent about its perimeter gases escaping unevenly around the bullet base will cause bullet yaw and loss of precision. {Very smooth translation between bore and counter bore is required for accuracy. A patch with fine valve grinding compound and a lot of elbow grease can polish out the transition and bore. How is the extraction? i.e. the chamber/throat? -- UG}

Reaming the counter bore to improve the finish could also be helpful. Let the group know what you decide. Always good to hear how a real live person makes out on a project like this.

The damage to the rifling is on one side only. The rifling is actually missing. The damaged area is quite long. The rounds that come out of the rifle tumbling shoot just fine in my other rifles. I have decided to use Acraglas to bond the liner into the rifle. I'm going to chamber the rifle for Longs and shoot mostly CB Longs. I don't know yet if I should get the liner with a twist for Longs or Shorts. I think the twist designation is for short or long bullets, not short or long shells. I'll ask Brownells or the liner maker. Eric

Can you center the barrel in a lathe and bore that area out to equalize the damage, so the liner drill isn't forced sideways?

I can do that, and might. I may also be able to get away with a long pilot on the drill used to open up the bore for the liner. What I'll probably do is bore the muzzle to the .316, which is the size the barrel needs to be opened up to, about an inch deep. Then use a long piloted drill. I will be drilling from both ends, which is what Brownells says to do. Eric