Anybody soldered in a barrel liner?

I used AcraGlass when I did it, Worked great! And no risk of overheating the barrel or having the flux destroy the bluing. Made a

Gunsmiths commonly do the job with silver solder.

Try asking these guys :

I have an old shot out .22 rifle. Looking at the rifling it is way more worn on one side than the other at the muzzle. This could explain the bullets hitting the target sideways. So I'm gonna buy a barrel liner from Brownells and solder it in. I'll use 6% tin/silver solder. I could use Acraglas but I've only the one barrel to do so solder it is. I'm pretty good at soldering but have never done a barrel. Any hints? Thanks, Eric

Brownells instructions work just fine. I soldered mine in.

Depending on the rifle..you may be able to purchase a complete barrel in good condition...

Gunner

"Liberalism is a philosophy of consolation for Western civilization as it commits suicide"

- James Burnham

I did an old junker Winchester mdl 1890 years ago. Interesting project. I also used Acraglass, it worked fine.

Drill bits--If you make your own piloted bits, use 8mm as a basis instead of

Why is that? Looks a bit small if the liner is 5/16.

Thanks for tip about the gunsmithing group. ERS

Solder is a PIA. Epoxy is iffy too since you can't be sure all the voids are filled( not that it matters so much on a rimfire, but it bothers me)

I have done 3 barrels with Loctite 609. It is low viscosity and it will wick in the joint. I use an extended 8mm drill bit with a ground pilot to get a close fit with the liner. Before I insert the liner, I swab the barrel with 602 and wet the liner with it also. Then the liner goes in with the barrel in the vertical position. I keep a constant puddle of 603 at the joint as the liner goes in. The fit is close enough that on the last 2 barrels, the muzzle joint disappeared when the barrel was recrowned and blued.

Randy

8mm= .3149"

Liner .312, hole .315--slides right in. Liner .312, hole .312----sucks. Been there.

Look at the spec on the drillbit for .22 in the Brownell's catalog. PN

Bill

Brownell's has a free booklet with instructions if you get their liners. I've done soldering, used the Force 44 solder and recommended flux with a air-acetylene torch and had no problems. I'm sure a modern propane torch would work as well, one of the '50s Bernzomatics might have troubles. If you make the piloted bit with a brazed on extension like is in their instructions you should have no problems. If you don't use the Force 44, make sure your solder's melting point is in the same range. Some of the lead-free plumbing solders have things other than silver and tin in them and will just ball up into a pasty mess if you try to use them for this application.

Stan