Reloading equipment WTB/Trade/Swap

Going through my various reloading equipment for the first time in nearly 5 yrs, and Im missing a few things, have duplicates of others
and so on and so forth. Time to straighten this up and move some of it, get some other Stuff etc etc
Looking to buy, swap for, etc etc reloading equpment in just about any caliber or gauge.
Looking for dies, bullet molds, powder measures, scales, etc etc etc
Whatcha got and what are you looking for? Trade is king, cash may be available.
Ive got a damned large quantity of brass as well. Some of it is NOS unprimed brass, some of it is once fired, some of it is unknown.
M1 Carbine brass..probably 800 or so pieces as well as at least one set of dies maybe two
.40 S&W..probably 300 +pieces of once fired mixed head stamp 240 Weatherby Mag, unprimed brass, 40 rds in boxes, NOS
257 Roberts ammo, at least 20 or more NOS in raggedly assedbox plus more brass
7.5 AND 6.5 Jap, Norma unprimed brass in boxes Most is NOS. I dont need all that I have.
Lots and lots of similar stuff and I mean lots!
Things Im needing/looking for at the moment
Lee priming tools Any good hand operated priming tools Any good bench mounted priming tools, RCBS, Forester etc RCBS priming tubes both large and small RCBS priming tools (press mounted) for Jr and Rockchucker press with large and small tubes Case trimmers (bench type) etc etc
Decent beam type reloading scale. My Ohaus 10 10 took a dive..damnit!
Large cylinder for RCBS Uniflow powder measure (complete)
Ive got (2) Ohaus Duo Measures, I need to make a powder bottle for one. Anyone know what the baffles looked like? Both of mine are early 80s before they added the baffles. I can make em up if I know what they looked like.
I could use a spare reloading press, scale etc etc to make a portable range reloading kit. Even Lee would be good. Something to take to the range and reload ammo on the bench. Or on a B&D workmate. Herters, RCBS, Lyman, Pacific etc etc presses are just fine. Old is ok. Rusty is ok. Just needs to be threaded for standard dies, or capable of being adapted to standard dies. Or comes with a bunch of dies (Lyman Tru-line and 310 and similar with the 5/8" dies) Turrets would be considered..but I do mostly rifle work when reloading at the range...and most turrets are a bit..light for rifle work.
I had build a nice one up, loaned it out..it never came back (another name added to the List, sigh.... chuckle....
I used to have 4 spare presses..cant find a one of them..sigh.
And no..Im not interested in paying Ebay prices. Shrug..there are lots of Stuff tucked away in basements, closets and cupboards out there, so dig it out, dust it off half assed and decide if you want to move it or not.
Also looking for bullet molds of any type or sort. Ive some Id trade, most Ill keep. Whatcha got or whatcha need?
Same with micrometer sights...IE peep sights. Unmounted, parts, pieces, complete or incomplete. Take a picture, write down any numbers and drop me an email. And again...no..Im not going to pay retail or ebay prices for it, but I will be fair.
Looking for chronograph. Doesnt need to be fancy, just needs to work. Same deal..not gonna pay retail or Ebay prices..but Ill be fair.
Gunner gunnerasch AT gmail dot com
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On 12/31/2012 8:40 AM, Gunner wrote:

I love the .41 dies! It would do clover leaves. Too bad I no longer have any firearms.
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Yeah, bummer. Sold them to the guy with the camel who kept yelling "Hollow at the bar!"
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .
I love the .41 dies! It would do clover leaves. Too bad I no longer have any firearms.
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Im glad that I never sent you the dies. Mine shoots pretty well to for the new owner.
Btw..were those carbide or regular dies? I cant remember
Gunner
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On 12/31/2012 10:01 PM, Gunner wrote:

Steel, but I used to lube cases anyway.
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Ok, I was wondering as I found 2 more sets, both steel as well. Im starting my first 250 today. Soon as I finish fixing up the RCBS bench priming machine.
Evidently I stocked up on .41 Mag dies, brass and factory cast and jacketed bullets, along with bullet molds somewhere in the past.
The follow up after the memory loss from the stroke....some days its like Christmas all over again.
Ill open a box and Wheeee! New stuff!!! Where/when did I get that stuff!??
Ive got a decent pair of Lee 195gr SWC molds, one single cavity, one double cavity. No idea of where they came from. Probably Ebay..shrug
Id send you the single cavity if you need one. No idea if they are accurate or not. Ill cast some up and try em.
Im hoping I have a .411 luber die, though I expect there is one in there. Ill have to dig through the 20+ or so in that drawer., given that Id stocked up on .41 stuff.
Im loading 210gr SWCs, moly coated Buffalo Bullet Co, unopened box of 500. Chuckle..no idea of where they came from.
Ive been going through the reloading shop slowly. (4) Lyman 20lb melting pots?? 4??? I remember 2.
I found another luber-sizer in a box out in the shop, with a die for 8mm in it last month.
I remember a friend of mine dying in a motorcycle vrs pickup truck accident and buying most of his reloading gear from the family..but that was 6 or so years ago...so that may be where some of that stuff came from..or some of the other stuff..tons of stuff. Literally.
(3) 5 gallon buckets of 45 ACP brass. Found em under the reloading bench. Full. I think Im good to go for 45 brass for a couple decades...
On the other hand..Im missing at least 3 spare presses that I cant find anywhere. The bright blue Pacific was on my B&D Workmate as a range reloading bench..I think I loaned the B&D to someone..sometime..as they are gone, along with the extra Ohaus 10-10 scale and other bits that went with it. It never came back..damnit!!
And Im missing an old Hollywood and I think..an orange Lyman. Maybe. Kinda sorta remember having them....
Im missing at least 3 Lee priming tools..well..parts for most of them..and my press mounted priming tools and all but (1) of the priming tubes..a small one. And I hardly ever reload using small primers. Mostly 38/357...of which Ill be loading a couple thousand this month.
I guess Im going to have to open and browse through my Ebay archives and see what Ive bought over the last 6-7 yrs. Shrug.
I hope I got good deals....sigh.
Gunner
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On 1/2/2013 12:18 PM, Gunner wrote:

Cool! You can hide your own Easter eggs! Don't forget that $20 you owe me! <G> Let me know when you get to the .41 tumble-lubed cast parts I sent. They came from a Lee 2-hole mold. They group great but I hate less than 6 hole molds. I was thinking of making a press from a bunch of air presses a bud gave me...it would save on the shoulder at the expense of feel.
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Whats your accuracy load for those bullets?
I dont really owe you $20..do I? If I do..seriously..let me know. The memory...the memory.....
Gunner

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On 1/2/2013 7:57 PM, Gunner wrote:

No, I think it was a $50! Yea, Yea...a $50! (just kidding) I used 7gr IMR 700X Hi-Skor
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Thanks. Thats what Ill load those at.
Ive got some Greendot that has a good history, at a 7grs-7.4 grs with the 210gr SWC moly bullets on hand.
Gunner
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wrote:

Oh..in case you were wondering..I have a few pounds of Greendot on hand that was intended for shotgun loads..but I went to a different powder (Reddot) ..so Ill use it up in the .41 mag. Ive had those cans of Greendot for at least 10 or more years..shrug
Greendot is a very very underrated pistol cartridge powder and Ive burned at least a hundred pounds of it over the years. Its just a smidge slower than Unique and fills that area very nicely. It will do everything Unique will do. I bought what I have left from the family of a friend who had died, for $3 a pound. I think I bought 6 lbs at the time, gave 1 or 2 away to another friend and have burned a fair amount of it up in 12ga shotgun loads since then.
Greendot is bulky and it works very well in 9mm as well with a full case..almost a compressed load.
If someone finds a few cans of Greendot kicking around someplace for a cheap price..snag it!!! Ive even loaded cast bullets in the 3030, 308 and 3006 with it with very good accuracy. Good to about 1500 FPS.
Just found this on Reddot..which some of you may find interesting. And his results match 30 yrs of my own.
" There is a well known article by C.E. Harris about using Red Dot as a propellant in a variety of calibers. As noted earlier, these are reduced loads - though certainly not "squib" loads. The powder charge used id 13 grains and works well across a wide range of bullet weights. Read the article before loading any rounds. Pete Here is the article: Date: 17 Feb 94 17:50:11 From: Ed Harris To: All Subj: Red Dot in Reduced Rifle Loads
"The Load" is 13 Grains of Red Dot" (In most strong-actioned, military rifles of .30 cal. or larger) READ ON FOR SPECIFICS AND WARNINGS!
(If you missed this article when it originally appeared in Handloader's Digest, 10th Edition, here it is again...
By C.E. (Ed) Harris, Revised 2-16-94
My success in economizing by using up leftover shotshell powder has changed my approach to handloading. I had a caddy of Red Dot, and no longer reloaded shotshells, so asked myself, "what can I do with it?" My shooting is now mostly high-power rifle. I needed several hundred rounds a week to practice offhand, reloading, and working the bolt in sitting and prone rapid, but didn't want to burn out my barrel or my wallet. Powder used to be cheap, but today is $20/lb. (or more), so cost is a factor in component choice.
I used to ignore pistol or shotgun powders in reduced rifle loads for the usual reasons: the risk of accidental double-charges, fears of erratic ignition, and concerns with maintaining accuracy, and reduced utility with a low-power load. Still, the caddy of Red Dot kept "looking at me" from the corner. Would it work? Looking at data in the RCBS Cast Bullet Manual No. 1 and the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook suggested it would, so I tried it, much to my delight! Red Dot is bulky, compared to the usual rifle powders used in .30-'06-size cases. It occupies more powder space in typical charges than common "reduced load" rifle powders, such as #2400, IMR4227, IMR4198 or RL-7. The lower bulk density of Red Dot adequately addresses my safety concerns because it makes an accidental double charge far less likely.
After considerable experimentation, my friends and I found "The Load" is 13 grains of Hercules Red Dot, in any FULL SIZED rifle case of .30 cal. or larger. "The Load" has distinct advantages over more expensive alternatives, within certain limitations, which are:
1. The case must be LARGER than the .300 Savage or .35 Remington.
2. The rifle must be of MODERN (post 1898) design, suitable for smokeless powder, with a bore size of .30 cal. or larger.
3. The bullet weight must be within the NORMAL range for the given cartridge.
4. Inert fillers such as Dacron, kapok or are NOT RECOMMENDED! (Nor are they necessary).
Within these restrictions I have now engraved in stone, "The Load" works! The bullet may be either jacketed or cast. Gaschecked cast bullets required in the .30 cals., otherwise you will get leading, but plainbased ones work fine in the 8mm Mauser or larger.
"The Load" has shown complete success in the .30-40 Krag, .303 British, 7.65 Argentine, .308 Win., 7.62x54R Russian, .30-'06, 8x57 and .45-70 (strong-actioned rifles such as the 1886 Winchester or 1895 Marlin -- 12 grs. is maximum for 400 gr. bullets in the Trapdoor Springfield -- Ed.) Though I have not tried it, I have no doubt that "The Load" would work well in other cartridges fitting these parameters, such as the .35 Whelen, .358 Winchester, .375 H&H or .444 Marlin, based on RCBS and Lyman published data.
"The Load" fills 50% or more of a .308 Win or .30-'06 case. The risk of an accidental double charge is greatly reduced, because the blunder is immediately obvious if you visually check, powder fill on EVERY CASE, as you should whenever handloading! A bulky powder measures more uniformly, because normal variation in the measured volume represents a smaller percentage of the charge weight.
Red Dot's granulation is somewhat less coarse than other flake powders of similar burning rate, such as 700-X, which aids metering. Its porous, uncoated flakes are easily ignited with standard primers. So-called "magnum" primers do no harm in cases larger than the .30-'06, but are neither necessary nor recommended in smaller ones. I DO NOT recommend pistol primers in reduced rifle loads, because weak primers may cause erratic ignition, and their thinner cups can perforate more easily, causing gas leakage and risk of personal injury!
The velocities obtained with 13 grs. of Red Dot appear mild, but "The Load" is no pipsqueak! In a case like the .308 or .30-'06, you get (from a 24" sporter barrel) about 1450 f.p.s. with a 200- gr. cast bullet, 1500 with a 170-gr., or 1600 with a 150-gr. cast load. "The Load" is fully comparable to "yesterday's deer rifle", the .32-40, and provides good expansion of cheap, soft alloys (10-13 BHN) at woods ranges. Jacketed bullet velocities with "The Load" are about 120-150 f.p.s. less than a lubricated lead bullet of the same weight.
Longer-barreled military rifles pick up a few feet per second, but "The Load" starts to slow down in barrels over 28", such as the M91 Moisin-Nagant and long Krags or 98a Mausers.
My preferred alloy in the .30 cals. is a mixture of 3-5 lbs. of .22 backstop scrap to 1 lb. of salvaged linotype. Wheelweights also work well, as do soft "Scheutzen" alloys such as 1:25 tin/lead. in bores of 8 mm or larger. "The Load" drives soft- cast .30-cal. to 8 mm bullets fast enough to get expansion, but without fragmenting. These out-penetrate factory .30-30 softpoints, and kill medium game up to 150 lbs. well at short ranges up to 100 yards, when placed accurately. In medium and large bores like the .375 H&H or .45-70, "The Load" gives typical black powder ballistics for the bore. A 255-265 gr. cast bullet in the .375 H&H approximates the .38-55 at 1330 f.p.s. Soft 300- 405-gr. cast bullets are pushed at 1300-1350 f.p.s. from a 22" barrel .45-70, sporter are very effective on deer at woods ranges. Cast bullets over .35 cal. do not have to expand appreciably to work well on game if blunt and heavy for their caliber.
The Load" works well with jacketed bullets, giving somewhat lower velocities than with cast lead, due to less effective obturation and greater friction in the bore. The 85-gr. or 100-gr. Hornady or 90-gr. Sierra JHP for the .32 H&R Mag. revolver, or the Remington 100-gr. .32-20 softpoint bullet become mild, but destructive varmint loads at 1600 f.p.s. from a .308 or '06.
If you substitute a stiffly jacketed 110-gr. .30 Carbine softpoint bullet, designed for higher velocities than imparted by "The Load", you have a non-destructive "coup de gras", small game or wild turkey load which shoots close to your deer rifle's normal zero, but at 25 yards! A more accurate and effective small game or varmint load uses a flat-nosed 150-gr. pr 170-gr. .30-30 bullet instead. These don't expand at the 1400-1450 f.p.s. obtained with "The Load", but their larger frontal area improves killing power compared to roundnoses or spitzers.
I have use pulled GI .30 caliber Ball, and Match bullets with "The Load" for cheap 200-yd. NMC boltgun practice. Accuracy is equal to arsenal loads, but I use my 600-yard sight dope at 200 yards. I expect 5-6" ten-shot, iron-sight groups at 200 yards using M2 or M80 pulled bullets and about 3-4" for the M72 or M118 Match bullets. I use these mostly in bolt-action rifles, but they can be single-loaded for offhand or slow-fire practice ion the Garand as well. These .30 cal. pulls shoot fine in the .303 British or 7.62x54 Russian, despite their being a bit small, because the fast-burning Red Dot upsets them into the deeper grooves. The 173-gr. Match .30 cal. boattail bullets may not shoot as well at these low velocities as lighter flat bases in the 12" twist .308 Win. barrels, but they do quite well in ten- inch twist barrels such as in the '06, 7.62 Russian, .303 British and 7.65 Argentine.
The longer bore time of these 1400 f.p.s. (typical 170-180-gr. jacketed load velocity) practice loads makes errors in follow- through apparent, a great practice and training aid. The light recoil and lower report of these loads helps transition Junior tyro shooters from the .22 rimfire to the service rifle without being intimidated by the noise and recoil.
Zeroing is no problem in the M1 or M14, because "The Load" shoots into the ten-ring of the reduced SR target at 200 yards from your M1 or M14 rifle at using your normal 600 yard sight dope! The somewhat greater wind deflection blows you into the "8" ring at 200 yards with the same conditions you would expect to do so at 600 yards with M118 Match ammunition. This provides your Junior shooters some useful wind-doping practice.
The economy of a lighter charge is obvious. A full power .30-'06 load using 50 grs. of an IMR powder like 4064 costs 10 cents a pop, just for powder, at 140 rounds per pound (if you are lucky enough to find new powder for $14/lb.). Substituting 13 grs. of Red Dot gets 538 rounds per pound at a cost of 2.6 cents which is a savings of over $7 per hundred rounds in powder alone! Greater savings are possible if you get the best price and buy powder by the caddy.
Velocity and point of impact of "The Load" is not noticeably affected by varying powder position in the case. I shoot them either slow fire, or clip-fed and flipped through rapid-fire in the boltgun with equal accuracy. Red Dot is very clean burning and is economical both on the basis of its lower charge weight, and its lower basic cost per pound compared to other "rifle" powders.
Best of all, using a shotshell powder I already have reduces the kinds of powder I keep and eliminates the need for a special "reduced load" powder. This approach is ideal for rifle shooters who are also shotgunners, since almost everybody who reloads for 12-ga. probably has a keg of Red Dot already!
I now realize it is foolish to use heavier charges of more expensive powder for routine practice, varmint or small game loads in my center-fire rifles. I seldom shoot at over 200 yards, and don't enjoy wearing out expensive target barrels unnecessarily. Since I already have good sight dope and need to work more on technique and save my remaining barrel accuracy life for matches.
I am glad I found the way to get alot more shooting for the dollar. Economical powder choice IS possible, and my reloading has become less complicated and more enjoyable simple since I realized I could do most of my rifle shooting with 13 grains of Red Dot!"
Gunner
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On 1/3/2013 10:04 AM, Gunner wrote:

I never really had the chance to work much with rifles, just no easy access to a range. But, it has always been on my wish list.
I did find that in 41 and 44 with reduced loads, WAY down on the scale, the use of magnum primers is necessary to get reliable ignition. I've had 44's squib on me because of powder position---the charge didn't ignite but the primer pushed the bullet half way into the barrel jamming the cylinder. I don't futz with mouse loads in big cases anymore.
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Indeed. Anything under about 800 fps is a mouse load. As I recall..you were loading the 45 at about 600 or so. Those become critcal in making sure the burn actually occurs.
The 41 can be loaded as hot or hotter than the 44...but neither really arnt a hell of a lot of fun to shoot, are too powerful for self defense and are only good for big game or metallic sillouette.
Shrug. Keep the numbers in mid range and you wont have any issues.
Gunner
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On 1/3/2013 12:09 PM, Gunner wrote:

I start low and slowly work up. Groups get tighter. I slowly work up until groups start to enlarge. That's my load for that bullet, powder, primer and length. Change anything and repeat. Sometimes there is a big window until the group starts to enlarge.
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That works great with a rifle. Not so much with a handgun.
Shrug
Gunner
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Ebay only shows back through 2011. Looks like I bought 2 sets of dies in July of that year. Damn..I thought I was healed up by that point. Looks like I wasnt. Shit.
Gunner
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On Mon, 31 Dec 2012 19:17:19 -0800 (PST), Too_Many_Tools wrote:

...

Well, this IS the Obama economy after all. Everyone is having trouble. That's what you guys call "fair".
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On Mon, 31 Dec 2012 20:25:01 -0700, Winston_Smith

I'm not. But then I wasn't handicapped with being an irrational fuckwit like you phony conservatives. The fact that you're sitting there proves that you prefer that over doing something more productive. Ask any successful person and they'll tell that if you want to get ahead, then do it BEFORE you start wasting time on Usenet. Unless you really believe that blaming Obama for your shortcomings makes more sense than getting off your ass, in which case carry on. But remember that when you dare to say that there weren't enough hours in the day to get ahead, your idiotic posts will always be in the archives mocking you.
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"whoyakidding's ghost" wrote in message wrote:

Why should people try? Obama just wants to take away what we earn and give it to people that don't work, we should be those who don't work so Obama can give us your tax dollars!
Please work harder so Obama can give us more money!
Thank you!
RogerN
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"RogerN" wrote in message
<snip> Why should people try? Obama just wants to take away what we earn and give it to people that don't work, we should be those who don't work so Obama can give us your tax dollars!
Please work harder so Obama can give us more money!
Thank you!
RogerN
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Please Roger, get with reality!
They never say "thank you." They just say "More!"
CS
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