horizontal bandsaw upgrades

hi,

could osme one point me in the right direction (websites) on how to make a cheap (CLARKE ) 4x6 bandsaw better.

thank you

Reply to
acrobat-ants
Loading thread data ...

Check out:

formatting link

On the Projects page there is a link to mods for a HF bandsaw, same mods will apply to yours. There is also a link to Tiny Island website with more info on various mods. There is also a yahoo forum for these size saws as well.

formatting link
my website:
formatting link
expressed are those of my wifes, I had no input whatsoever. Remove "nospam" from email addy.

Reply to
Roy

thanks for the replys

my new saw had a very poor assembly instructions, very poor fit-up and no specs for this machine example: what horsepower motor is it? in case it may need replacement what is the reccomended motor RPM range ? A few more questions if the saw is turned into a "wet saw", will the liquid gets into the guide bearings ? how to tell is the down feed is set correctly? or how to set it correctly? what blade is reccomended for stainless steel and for mild steel?

other than its cheesey design it cuts pretty nice so far. chopped up a 3" wide 20' length standard "C" channel in to 10 " pieces and it went pretty fast , faster than I expected.

thanks

Reply to
acrobat-ants

After doing the alignment procedures listed on several of the websites, the best thing you can do for your continued sanity is to dump the blade that came with it and get a good name-brand bimetal blade or three. I have no idea where in the world you are, but some good US brands are Lenox and Starrett. You change blade pitch according to your work thickness and your blade speed according to what material you want to cut. The rule of thumb is to have at least three teeth in the work, so you'll need several blades if you cut a wide variety of material thicknesses. If you go too coarse with the blade pitch on thin material or tubing, you'll shuck teeth and need to get a new blade. Usually happened on chrome-moly tubing with me. Brand-name blade makers will usually have a catalog or line sheet with usage suggestions for all their blade stock types. You might even be able to get something online these days. One place to check for local stocks of blades is a welding supply shop. Stick with the stated blade thickness and width, these little cutoff bandsaws have just about enough rigidity to tension the stock blade size and not enough for anything thicker or wider.

You might check on

formatting link
for a 4x6 manual online there, most of these imports are pretty close in design. Might not be any better but it might be different enough to cover some of the gaps.

Stan

Reply to
Stan Schaefer

here are some recommended modifiations, but there are many other websites.. try a web or RCM archive search of 4x6 and bandsaw, $200 bandsaw, etc

formatting link
WB ...............

Reply to
Wild Bill

1/2-1hp is what they're sold with, depending on vendor. Don't know the RPM range.

Yes but it isn't a problem.

I set it by ear, but I'm not sure if that will help you!

I've been very happy with the Morse .035" thick bi-metal blades that Enco sells. They also have some nameless bi-metal blades that are a little cheaper that are not as good. Starrett flexi-back blades are also good. Cheap import blades can be had for $5/each and last 1/10th as long as the expensive bi-metal blades.

Take a look at:

See the website for my email address - email to this address sent to /dev/null.

--C.S.

Reply to
C.S. Mo

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.