hot water heat leak

I use map or air/acet torches and still prefer leaded solder. The newer lead-free stuff IS better than the earlier stuff. A lot likely has to do with the newer flux.

Perhaps you get different stuff up there. I'm still using the big tub of lead-free no-korode paste flux I bought around 1989 with no issues at all. I've gone through a few spools of solder since then and haven't noticed a difference.

I didn't think you could still get leaded solder. Where do you buy it? Preferably online so I can order some to have on hand

The advice about replacement of the section of tubing is the easy repair, is correct.

Soldering copper tube and fittings isn't difficult to learn. Buy at least a couple of handfuls of fittings and a section of tubing and practice on fittings facing in all directions.

Use all the proper standard practices.. cut the tubing with a tubing cutter, deburr the end ID burr, shine the tubing end and the inside of the fitting (should actually produce bands of fine scratches for the capillary action), emory cloth is commonly used for the tubing ends and a properly-sized round wire brush is the easiest method for the fitting openings. Special round wire brushes are sold for shining tubing ends, too (these brushes work like battery post cleaners). Keep the shined ends clean. Apply a thin flux coating to both parts immediately after shining the solder areas and fit the two parts together.

The proper temperature isn't highly critical, and the end of the solder touching the fitting near the connection will be the best indicator of the proper temperature. The flux will sizzle as the temperature gets close to the solder's melting point. The flame is applied to the back side to give the best visibility while watching the joint draw in/wick-in the molten solder. Feed in the solder, remove the flame and carefully swipe the joint with a clean, damp cotton cloth/shop rag. Extinguish the fire if you sat the lit torch where you shouldn't have.

Safety.. I always try to have a reliable trigger-spray bottle full of water within reach, and a fire extinguisher only a couple of steps away. Specially-treated mats are available for using as a shield over wood and other flammable materials near connections to be soldered. I find thin aluminum roofing flashing to be very versatile for using as heat shields.

After doing a couple of practice joints, take 'em over to the bandsaw or grab a hacksaw, and cut the joints and peel them open to see if full coverage is attained on the two mating surfaces. Practicing on joints that are oriented in different directions will be effective learning aids.

Valves and some other fittings can be a bit trickier, but learn the essential basic steps first before proceeding to the other items. The most used fittings will probably be els and couplers. Master these, then practice on other items. Sections of tubing can be sweated to some new valves for practice now, but for future use.. compressed air and soapy water can be used to check for leaks. Since there's no water pressure in the practice piece (which would make a mess if it failed), some light hand pressure force can be applied to the tubing ends to test for strength of the joints, followed by air pressure testing. When the valves are needed, just use couplers to fit the ends in place. Valves are generally soldered in the open position. The trigger-spray water bottle can be used to cool valves and larger components quickly.

All systems should have valves at each point of use, at the minimum. Trying to get a line emptied when it's connected to 50 feet of line above is a nuisance, but if you can shut a nearby valve, the section of line drains right now. Some valves have a port with a small knurled cap to drain lines to aid in draining, and bleeding air from lines. Placing some extra valves at random locations in a system can be a great convenience in the future when repairs (leaks?) or expansions are needed.

I still have most of a 5 lb spool.

It's better to learn to use the solder that you will be able to get the next time you need it, and particularly so you don't end up using the lead solder the next time you have a potable water plumbing fix to do. The Lead free solder works fine, I've used it numerous times for more than 20 years without any problems.

I can't imagine what type of baseboard you have that would require tearing up walls to move. The normal copper tube with pressed on aluminum fin baseboard radiators lift right out of the hanger brackets that are attached to the back plate which is attached to the wall. You simply need to cut off the pipe an inch above the elbow *below* the floor and then you can lift the end of the baseboard up to easily cut or desolder the bad section from the end of the radiator, solder on new pipe there, lower it through the floor, cut to correct length and solder it back together below the floor with a coupling. It's really easy.

The realistic simplicity of the job also occurred to me, but as I've mentioned before, particularly about Karl and a few others that have been around in RCM for a while.. they always try to make the job seem harder than it could possibly be.

Drama.

I'll be glad to eat my words and sincerely apologize, when/if I saw pictures of an installation that show that it requires "tearing out a bunch of sheet rock walls" to fix a single leak.

Karl Townsend wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

McMaster...

I shoulda known. McMaster has everything.

Thanks karl

The water main to my house is lead, what difference would lead-free solder make :-)

Mark Rand RTFM

Not much. So that's why the folks I have to deal with in the UK are a bit "off"... I hope you use a good filter in your house...