I have a wobble in idle pulley in my Wilton 2530 Drill press.
Idle pulley doesn't have any play and when rotated feels very smooth like it
be with a good bearing. But when rotating there is a wobble 1/8 to 1/4"(Pulley
surface does not stay level). Looks like axis of rotation and axis of pulley is
I want to take idle pulley off to inspect it. I can't figure out how to do it.
There is manual here
on page 16. Idle pulley I need to take off is part #95.
All suggestions are appreciated.
Don't disassemble it. Don't even remove the belt. Just spin it slowly in
place and see if it wobbles. Best would be a dial test indicator, but you
could just cut out a piece of white cardboard so it sits just above the
outer rim, then your eye can watch the gap. Or maybe a tri-square too, whatever.
You don't sound like a guy with a lathe .. those pulleys are made to very
loose specs so buying a replacement wouldn't help you -- what are you going to
do if the pulley isn't bored axially?
From the drawing it looks like there is a ball race pressed into the
pulley and supported on a static shaft at the centre. For there to be a
1/8" to 1/4" wobble the bearing would be virtually dropping to pieces,
so I suspect the pulley isn't true, i.e., this is the way is was made. I
have a cheap drill press and the pulleys in this aren't quite true. The
wobble in my drill press is perhaps 0.5 mm (from my recollection). If it
doesn't affect the operation of the machine, don't worry about it. If it
does, you could try complaining to the shop you bought it from.
Because of this wobble whole drill press vibrates. I can't say it's terribly bad
very annoying and I want to fix. Can this be fixed on a lathe? May be I should
find a true pulley on ebay?
Looks like we identified the problem for sure. It's a not true pulley.
It's about 3 degrees that translates into very obvious 1/4" or even more wobble.
there any solution to fix this?
BTW It's not a cheap drill press it retails for $530 new. I bought it used in
on > a lathe? May be I should try to find a true pulley on ebay?
Yes, you might be able to fix this on a lathe (provided that the pulley
itself isn't oval) but it won't be too easy because the ball race is
held within the pulley. If the pulley is bored off-axis you'd have to
make an insert to go in the pulley.
If it isn't out of guarantee I would take it back to the store you
bought it from. But if not, even if the pulleys are made to loose specs,
some are more accurate than others, so a replacement might help you. If
you do see a replacement part of eBay it might solve your problem.
The axis of the pulley and the axis of the bearing are about 3 degrees
apart? So the circumference of the pulley moves up and down by about
1/4" as it rotates?
I would try to find a replacement pulley, either new or used. If you
can't find a new one, and the circumference of the pulley is reasonably
round, you could bore out the centre of the pulley until the bored hole
is true, then make some kind of an insert to fit between the bearing and
pulley. Or you could make a complete new pulley, but this is a big job
because the pulley has several V-belt grooves.
Best to buy a replacement part I think.
Well ... first off -- in spite of it being called a "Wilton", it
is almost identical to the Taiwanese drill press which I got in about
1977 or so -- shortly after I got married.
So -- in spite of what you paid for it, it is no better than
what I got for about $150.00 back in 1977. The main difference apparent
is the location of the switch. Mine is on the left side, with a second one
which switches on or off the light bulb screwed into the head casting
behind the spindle. (Oh yes -- mine is a 16-speed one, and it has a
round table instead of your nearly square one.) And your depth stop is
better than mine -- which depends on the collar around the spider for
feeding the quill down. Other than that, I could use the manual which
you pointed out for working on mine.
Now -- if you slack the belts (as you would for changing the
steps for a different speed), and unhook both from the idler pulley, you
can lift the pulley and its arm straight up from the headstock casting.
(I know because I did this when cutting an extension to the hole through
which the arm passed in the belt guard, so I could shift the guard and
eliminate scraping of the idler pulley on the side of the guard in
certain belt settings.
Beyond that, I have not yet had to go. But looking at the
section of the manual page blown up a bit, all I can see is the bearing
which fits onto the top of the arm, and into the center of the pulley.
I would *hope* that there is a c-ring or a nut on the top of the
arm to keep the bearing from sliding up and off.
The bearing may be simply pressed into place, or it may have
another clip retaining the outer race. To be honest, I would have
expected a second bearing to help assure that the pulley ran on center,
but the drawing does not show one.
Your problem may be that the bearing has slipped in the bore in
the pulley, so it is no longer concentric with the pulley. (This would
mean that the bore is a very sloppy fit.)
Or -- it might be that a single bearing can't handle angular
loads, as would be put on it with one belt at the top and the other at
But -- at least, once you have lifted the pulley and arm
assembly out of the drill press, you can examine it more closely to try
to determine both what holds it together, and where the eccentricity is.
If the bore in which the bearing is mounted runs true, while the
outer sheaves do not, you need a new pulley. You may opt to buy one or
to make one, but you certainly need one.
If the outer race of the bearing is tilted, you need a new
bearing, or if possible, you need to mount two of them in the pulley to
better handle the unbalanced loads.
So -- pull the assembly and examine it where you can more
conveniently do so. Stuck in the top of the drill press makes life more
Indeed, it doesn't show one and it's hard for me to imagine how you
could do it with just one. BUT, the parts list shows a "quantity" of 2
for that part #. And the 20" DP diagram shows 2. So, there probably is
You are right!
I was able to take off the pulley straight up along with it's arm just by
from headstock casting.
I don't see any c-ring or nut that holds pulley on it's shaft.
Is it called press fit?
Now next step is to get pulley off the shaft.
Is it safe if I just hit on top of the shaft with Plastic-Tip Hammer
while holding pulley?
I've spend about an hour trying to true it by tap.
The pulley response very good to tapping. One light tap and it moves a lot.
The problem that it moves along the shaft too. So when I have it trued it's
little higher or little lower compared to other pulleys. Also even I were able
it true I am sure it won't stay that way for too long.
I disassembled pulley. You can find picture here:
The pulley is hold in place by only one bearing. No wonder it moves around
that pulley is made of soft aluminum. Wilton sucks!
Is there any solution to this?
Ouch! I'm not surprised that it has difficulty staying in
Several possible ones. It looks as though the pulley is bored
to three diameters. The largest of the three is to match the bearing.
So -- the first question is whether you can get away with boring
it deeper on a lathe. Ideally, deep enough to hold two identical
bearings. (The pulley grooves may be too small to allow this.) If you
do this, you will have to turn a new shaft for the bearings to run on.
It looks awkward to hold that arm, so you may have to make a new one for
A second option, which also requires a lathe, is to thread the
bore partway, and make a ring to thread into it to secure the outer race
of the bearing. (Check the length of the bore and the width of the
bearing's outer race to see whether this will work.
A third option would be to make a plate to go over the bearing,
with a hole for the end of the shaft to pass through, and screw it to
the flat surrounding the bearing bore. If the bearing is not as wide as
the length of the bore, you'll either need to make a projecting ridge
when you make the plate on a lathe, or make a ring to go between the
bearing and the plate.
A forth option would be to get some Loctite bearing mount
compound (I forget what the number is for that -- but go to a bearing
place and they will have it, as well as many Loctite threadlocker
However, remembering that you apparently got the drill press
*new* -- you should complain loudly to the people you bought it from,
and see if they will supply you with one in better shape. *Maybe* they
have had enough trouble from this design so they have gone back to the
two-bearing design which the parts list suggests was at one time the
The web site which is hosting your image makes it impossible to
save a copy of the image so I can enlarge it and check for fine detail.
And no -- don't bother e-mailing me a copy -- it won't get through the
file size limitation on my email which keeps me from getting flooded
with each new virus that comes out -- not that they would harm my unix
systems, but 200+ copies (which I used to get when a new one came out)
are a serious waste of time and space.
Why didn't you use the dropbox
saving the image so people could download it. The site which you used
appears to be designed for commerce. You even have a price on it. :-)
I don't know how much clearance there is between the shaft hole and the
v-belt groove in the outside of the pulley, but here is what I would
First, get rid of that atrocious old bearing. Go to mcmaster-carr and
order 2 new decent bearings for your shaft size. Find ones with an od
larger than the current one. Then you will need to find someone with a
mill and a boring bar. They will be able to re-bore the hole true to
the pulley, regardless of the orientation of the previous holes. Also
bore the hole 3 thou undersized. This size is critical. You will need
to find an arbor press or substitute (drill press quill, vise, etc.,)
and press the new bearings in place. Without this press fit, the
bearings will not do you any good. After the pulley assembly is
complete, put it back on the shaft. The problem should be fixed.