How to disassemble Drill Press?

its potmetal chilling before press may help for about 2 secs cheap is cheap do better next time

Reply to
wws
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Thanks for suggestion. I just posted some pictures of the pulley here:

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Reply to
Alex

The bearing "register" appears to be about .030 in. It will have some freeplay no matter.

Reply to
wws

You suggest that if I just replace the bearing it should help? I just posted better pictures of bearing:

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Reply to
Alex

Here is the bottom part of pulley picture:

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I am afraid there is not enough space to bore it to put two bearings. Do you think a bearing of the same width but bigger in diameter will help?

Thanks

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Reply to
Alex

Looking at your pictures, I'm not sure that having a single loose bearing is your only problem. I can't tell for sure because you don't have a head-on picture of the pulley bore, but it looks like the largest diameter bore (for the bearing) isn't coaxial with the smaller bores. If so, two bearings will only fix the problem if you can bore the pulley axially too.

Best wishes,

Chris

Reply to
Christopher Tidy

By the way, why don't Wilton do what other drill press manufacturers do and mount the motor on a hinged bracket? That way you don't need the idler pulley, bearing or arm?

Chris

Reply to
Christopher Tidy

By the way, why don't Wilton do what other drill press manufacturers do and mount the motor on a hinged bracket? That way you don't need the idler pulley, bearing or arm.

Chris

Reply to
Christopher Tidy

Looking at the new images, first off:

1) It appears that the pulley has been shifting on the bearing's outer race for some time, and has thus enlarged the bore and loosened the fit. 2) Lacking any measurements, it *looks* as though the depth of the bore is pretty close to the width of the bearing, which suggests that the plate which I suggested to be mounted in the larger bore of the pulley to hold the bearing firmly seated may help somewhat -- but the bore needs to be modified to make it a better fit. For that, either Loctite bearing mount, or possibly internal knurling might buy you some improvement. 3) The bearing appears to be in better shape than the bore of the pulley, so I think that replacing the bearing won't help -- though my suggestion of making the bore longer, and adding a second bearing would give a lot better stability -- *if* there is enough meat in the pulley to accept the deeper bore. 4) As I have already suggested, and as others have suggested, you *should* start by talking to the maker (or the store you bought it from) -- *if* you bought it new.

Ideally -- the pulley needs to be replaced with one holding *two* bearings, and a replacement arm supplied as well, with a longer shaft the right diameter for two bearings.

Good Luck, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

You need the idler pulley bearing and arm to accommodate the range of speeds which this offers -- with two belts. The idler pulley goes between the motor (with its pulley) and the spindle (with its), and moving the motor to tighten the belts first tightens the belt from motor to idler, then moves the idler to tighten the belt from idler to spindle.

Mine (of similar design -- though it may have two bearings in the pulley, since it has lasted for nearly thirty years now), give 16 speeds, IIRC -- from almost slow enough to drill steel with the largest drill bit which fits in the chuck which came with the machine (5/8" IIRC), up to fast enough to be scary.

As for why they didn't use a hinged motor mount -- It is simply because they did not *design* it. They are simply importing a design from Taiwan (best case) or China which is very little different from imported drill presses selling for half as much.

Enjoy, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

Can you take *measurements* of the pulley -- the diameter of the bottom of each of the grooves, and the diameter of the bearing? (A dial, vernier, or digital caliper should be sufficient for this). Also we need the distance from the big end to the center line of each groove, and the distance from the big end to the top and bottom of the bore in which the bearing resides. Just supplying us with images is not enough data.

That would let you bore the pulley just a bit undersized, and

*press* the bearing in (applying the pressure to the outer race, not the inner one), which would give you a little more life.

But I would go for the Loctite bearing mount compound, or the retaining plate which I described already, or a combination of the two.

But -- yet again -- I would *first* talk to the manufacturer, and explain the problem, and see what they could do to make it right. You paid a premium price for this -- they should at least make it right. How long have you owned this, anyway? I got the impression that you had not owned it for very long.

A proper fix from them would at least consist of a new pulley with *two* bearings, and a matching crank assembly.

Good Luck, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

I posted some renderings here:

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It doesn't have measurements but it's better than photos.

BTW Can anyone do the machining for me in exchange of Solidworks drawings, 3-D modeling or animation? I live in San Francisco.

Thanks

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Reply to
Alex

Manufacturer refused to replace the pulley since it's been more than a year since original purchasing. Thanks for suggestion anyway.

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Reply to
Alex

This whole post had gone on way too long. Go to the WMH web site and look at the PDF for this drill press. It sounds just exactly like a Jet I just disassembled completely, made a machining repair and reassembled. It is all so obvious that no manual is really needed, The only place I was even cautious was in the wiring as there was a small harness to get though the switch to the motor and the light. I guarantee that there is supposed to be two bearings in the idler pulley. Someone may have screwed up and left one out or machined the pulley wrong but there are supposed to be two bearings. This pulley won't cost more then $20.00 from WMH so reworking it is silly. The whole head casting, fully machined, only retails for $55.00. Depite anyone's opinion this is Chinese drill press and of no great quality. If you want another, with no problems you can have the one I just repaired for $250. in SoCal. Leigh

Reply to
CATRUCKMAN

So how much did they want for a new one? - GWE

Reply to
Grant Erwin

It's $507.86 on sale:

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Model WMH2530

Reply to
Alex

Um, I meant a new *pulley*. - GWE

Reply to
Grant Erwin

Sheesh....lol

Regards

Daveb

Reply to
DaveB

Not cheap at all! Pulley - $23, arm $19, 2 bearings $45 Plus handling and delivery $22

Reply to
Alex

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O.K. That at least would have two bearings, and not develop the problems you are experiencing.

Other than that, it looks as though the pulley (*if* your rendering is accurate+) would have enough meat to be bored for a second bearing -- but it would still leave you with needing to machine the arm to accept a second pulley.

I would suggest that:

1) You buy the new arm from them. 2) Go to a bearing house to find a pair of generic bearing the right dimensions to fit the arm and the pulley bore.

And

3) Bore the existing pulley to accept the two bearings.

4) Assemble them to make a proper pulley assembly and reinstall.

But -- if their parts list shows two bearings, and the drawings show two bearings, then it would appear that you got a non-standard assembly. A pity that you didn't spot it before the warranty expired -- especially given what you paid for the thing.

I wonder -- you seem to be up to about half of what one of the imports costs new for the whole assembly. And what you have really *is* an import, just with a Wilton label stuck on it.

Good Luck, DoN.

+) How can the rendering be accurate if you did not measure the pulley? It is a nice rendering -- but without dimension I don't trust it).
Reply to
DoN. Nichols

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