I have a particular machine where soluble oil/metalworking fluid has
dried out in the sump. How do I remove the dried out stuff to prevent
clogging of the fluid system with the remnants of the old dried out
The substance is called hangsterfer S500.
Ignoramus8543 fired this volley in
Hot TSP solution will not only soften and remove the old stuff, but also
clean the metal of the tank.
Make up a strong solution -- say a cup TSP per gallon, and heat it up to
near-boiling, either in a separate pot or in the tank with an immersion
heater. Let it work for as long as you can stand. A couple of days of
soaking will get it all pretty much limbered up and removable.
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" fired this volley in
PS... it's not only dried, but oxidized to a varnish. Varnish is not
water-soluble. But strong, hot TSP solution is ALSO a "varnish remover"
Just be sure you get real TSP. With the rampant greenies out there,
there are a lot of fake TSPs on shelves now. Like the "green" mineral
spirits, which don't work worth a hoot.
To change one's self is sufficient. It's the idiots who want
to change the world who are causing all the trouble.
"PrecisionmachinisT" fired this volley
in news:0PSdnV6d_cS6bEDPnZ2dnUVZ firstname.lastname@example.org:
which is also a strongly-basic cleaner (mostly lye).
However, that won't get it out of nooks and crannies you can't reach with
the spray. It's great for open surfaces, though, and won't hurt
steel/iron. Eats hell out of Al, but then, so does TSP.
Yes. Sellers of real TSP spell the chemical name out on the box, so
there can be no confusion.
The standard brand is Savogran and is available at real paint stores.
Hardware stores often have only "TSP", which is usually sodium
silicate, which will not work.
If it really has oxidized/polymerized, TSP would be my distant 2nd
choice. Lye would be much better; 1 lb/g or stronger.
Lye is much harder to find. It used to found in hardware stores, e.g.,
Red Devil brand, for cleaning drains. But it was being used in drug
mfg, IIRC, and isn't carried anymore. I get mine online, from a
soap-making supplies place.
If you're going to use it for something other than drain cleaning, do a
test first. I once tried to use Drano as a paint remover, cause I had
used lye to do it and I thought Drano was just lye. It was a disaster -
there was some other ingredient in the Drano that contaminated the work.
Here's where I get lye:
This does work well, but do it outside, even if the weather is
Ether fumes are extremely flammable, and if used in a basement, may
find their way to the pilot of the gas-fired hot water heater and
explode. Or be set off by the spark in a light switch or a control
whit3rd fired this volley in news:45a8eead-9f88-4d08-
Dilute lye can be used on it, too (for a time). Hot, concentrated TSP is
quite corrosive to aluminum; enough so that it's sometimes used as a
prep etch alone or in combination with other etchants, because it also
acts as a surfactant to wash the item clean after etching.
All sorts of things, actually, can vigorously attack aluminum because of
where it is on the electromotive series. Lest you think I'm crazy, let
me warn you that this is not obvious -- but water with a pH just barely
basic of neutral attacks aluminum VIGOROUSLY under certain circumstances;
so vigorously that it can cause substances to heat to the point of
All of us pyrotechnics guys are aware of the dangers of water and
aluminum. There have been numerous fires, many burns, and a few deaths
because of it.