info on gear reducer needed

I wouldn't bother with the keyway I would use a split taper bushing or a Fenner keyless bushing. Both of these will grab onto a 1" shaft quite tightly without a key and give you the added benifit of easy disassembly. The pulley and bushing combo might be will be a $20 more expensive than the keyway style pulley.

stan

Mild steel fpm should be in the range 60-120.

Be warned that the cross-hole may well be for a taper pin.

If I were you I'd turn one shaft 10 times while counting the revs of the other. If that doesn't get it, then turn it 100 times ..

Gear reducers are normally a worm and pinion, and those should go in either direction. Just try it with your hand. It should move freely.

Sure, you can tear it down and cut a keyway if you want to. Nothing wrong with a crosspin, though.

GWE

I would look up gear reducers in Grainger or McMaster Carr and compare hp ratings for similar gear reducers to get an idea of how much hp can be used. Also look at lubricant recommendations. I think that Boston Gear recommends synthetic gear oil now.

Dan

The L.H designation probably indicates that the worm has left hand thread, so determines the relative rotation of the input and output. If this is a normal worm reducer like on this page

You should be able to estimate the reducers ratings by looking for one of similar size in the Boston Gear pages. The most useful dimension will be the distance between the axes of the input and output shafts. This is what is referred to as "center distance" in the specs for the various reducers and is an indication of the actual gear set in the reducer. The torque and HP ratings for standard reducers with the same ratio and center distance from different manufacturers will be pretty close.

Ned Simmons

Thanks guys for the info. Here is what I learned so far, (Ned, I hadnt seen your post prior to right now, Im gonna look up the Boston Gear info, thanks) : I looked in MSC, Grainger and McMaster, I believe the LH designation means its set up left hand, can be changed to right hand, sure enough when I looked at it again, you could move the input shaft from side to side, just switch the covers, It looks like it will handle all the power I`ll need, the cross hole isnt tapered but had a lightly press fit dowel pin which held the clutch assem on the shaft. The outer sleeve of the assem covered the dowel pin so it could not fall out. I have no objection to using a cross pin, but the pulleys Im going to order (4-step) have a keyway with set screw. It does turn in each direction, and has a nice big bearing with two nuts, must be to take up end play? Looks very well made considering it is not stamped with any name. Im going to replace the seals, and make new gaskets. There is some slight corrosion in the case that will need to be removed so it doesnt waste the bearings. Thank you for your help , I really appreciate it. Craig

Might be happier in one direction than the other, though. Worm-gear reducers often have thrust bearings on the inside end of the worm. They want to turn so the reaction force pushes the worm against the thrust bearing rather than trying to push it out of the housing.

The typical Boston Gear/Winsmith/Hub City reducers I pointed to have ball bearings (or tapered roller bearings in larger sizes) at both ends of the worm and have no preferred rotation.

Ned Simmons