Keeping a trailer frame from rusting

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Reply to
Jim Wilkins
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What..no carcinogen ridden used oil that Chicagoans will appreciate?

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

  1. Lie
  2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
  3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
  4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
  5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
  6. Then everyone must conform to the lie
Reply to
Gunner

So if I were given a 2009 Cadillac for free..I shouldnt change the oil, because it costs more than I paid for the car?

fascinating!!

The methodology of the left has always been:

  1. Lie
  2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
  3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
  4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
  5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
  6. Then everyone must conform to the lie
Reply to
Gunner

Attribution corrected.

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Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Don't they already have enough dead Democrats voting there?

Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

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truck dealer upstate recommended it. I haven't used it yet.

Reply to
ATP

Krown rust control or Rust Check (or in the US, Rusty Jones)

Reply to
clare

OIne problem with the Wurth underbody coating. ANY damage and moisture gets in behind, and you end up with a plastic/rust sandwich. You want something that stays soft and sticks to the surface of the metal.

Reply to
clare

Hummm true indeed. Chicago Zombies.

The methodology of the left has always been:

  1. Lie
  2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
  3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
  4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
  5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
  6. Then everyone must conform to the lie
Reply to
Gunner

Grainger wants something like $20/can +tax so we're at over $22 here, and that's some special order deal too. Pass.

The local welding shop could get a 12 case for $13/can which sounds about right, but then there's the 10 cans I don't want. People at the Ace hardware and other industrial supply places know what the stuff is, but don't recall when they saw it last. Everybody ls the lps-1 though.

Legit places won't ship a can of the stuff as it's hazmat or something.

Most market places on amazon wanted about $10 for the stuff and $10 shipping last time I looked. I don't subscribe to the making money off shipping scam like on ebay, so I passed on that too.

It's pretty goofy.

Reply to
Cydrome Leader

Check most bearing houses. Part of their front counter area typically is greases, lubes and whatnot. LPS products are generally prominent in every one Ive gone into.

As well as Applied Industrial Technologies and similar outlets.

Just don't go in in late fall...seems LPS3 tends to get snagged by companies winterizing.

Ooops!

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

  1. Lie
  2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
  3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
  4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
  5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
  6. Then everyone must conform to the lie
Reply to
Gunner

Would you like me to check the store where I saw it last? Let you know what their price is, and maybe find out if I can ship to you from NYS?

Google Shopping shows in the $13 range.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

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Grainger wants something like $20/can +tax so we're at over $22 here, and that's some special order deal too. Pass.

The local welding shop could get a 12 case for $13/can which sounds about right, but then there's the 10 cans I don't want. People at the Ace hardware and other industrial supply places know what the stuff is, but don't recall when they saw it last. Everybody ls the lps-1 though.

Legit places won't ship a can of the stuff as it's hazmat or something.

Most market places on amazon wanted about $10 for the stuff and $10 shipping last time I looked. I don't subscribe to the making money off shipping scam like on ebay, so I passed on that too.

It's pretty goofy.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Hydraulic oil has lots of rust inhibitors (compared to engine oil). It will work well. It combines well with the existing rust to make an effective barrier. Thin it with naphtha so that it soaks in.

Reply to
jim

I have lots of hydraulic oil, new and used, but all clean.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus31399

And STILL illegal to use this way. BUT go ahead. Just don't start crying when someone comes knocking on the door...

Reply to
Steve W.

Steve, I do not want to get in trouble with DOT or police, I am a new DOT registrant and want everything to be on the up and up. What exactly is the rule or law that you are referring to?

Reply to
Ignoramus31399

There is a requirement on the DOT books to check vehicles for oil leakage or excessive oil seepage.

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"The EPA states illegal dumping of motor oil, or any hazardous waste to be "the disposal of waste in an unpermitted area, such as a back area of a yard, along stream bank[s], down storm drains or at some other off-road area". Waste is considered not only motor oil, but any solid, liquid, sludge or gas such as cleaning solutions, lubricants and leftover chemicals from commercial or private use."

Somewhere in this mess you will find the laws.

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Reply to
Steve W.

Which is for SAFETY reasons, I believe.

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Reply to
clare

Part of the pre-trip check, no leaks from engine or other oily places.

That specifically does not apply to wiping the frame down with oil. i

Reply to
Ignoramus1661

Hell it doesn't.

Okay, an Officer has just pulled you over and decided to poke around under the truck, and they find oil all over everything. Now it's up to you to prove that you applied every drop of oil on the chassis and undercarriage, to the satisfaction of the Highway Patrol officer or the EPA Inspector. That's going to be a VERY tall order, especially when he's looking for someone to fill his quota * for the week.

(* Officially, there is no "Quota" on peace officers for writing tickets - those are illegal, just like Bribing A Peace Officer is... But they usually have "Productivity Guidelines" that they have to meet. And conveniently enough, those aren't illegal...)

You have a choice - you can get busted for having an uncontrolled oil leak on the tractor that will get you hauled in for a Very Detailed Teardown, or you can get busted by the EPA for illegal dumping of waste oil on the roads and highways. Now you might get a choice from the Judge as to which one you can get out from under easier and cheaper - but either way, they'll have you dead to rights and you are going down.

Wouldn't it be smarter not to make a mess for yourself in the first place?

Just get it all cleaned up and painted under the tractor and trailer chassis to keep the rust from finding a starting place. Do NOT use "Undercoating" because it can rust underneath that for quite a while before you see it, and it's often too late.

Make yourself a washdown pit in the driveway - a concrete slab with a trench drain going to a grease trap (look up Jensen Precast or there's probably someone making them in the region) then the storm or sanitary sewer. And a 1/2" pipe crossing the slab in a slot (formed by a 2X4 on end) with holes drilled in it's top, 1/4" pipe couplers welded in, and a few fan-spray washer heads screwed into them. The nozzles need to end up just below the trench a bit, to where tires won't damage them.

Connect the pipe to a "Hotsy" heated pressure washer cranked up to 11. You do NOT want high powered jets that will work it's way into electronic connections and mess things up, you want a fan spray of near-boiling water mist that will melt any packed snow and salt slush and flush the salt and dirt off everything.

Turn the system on and let it warm up. Then drive slowly over the washer bay and hose the salt and crap off the chassis of the tractor and trailer - and while it's hot and running take all your other cars and pickups over it too.

The oils and greases will stop in the grease trap (or at least that's the theory...) and the heavy dirt will settle to the bottom. The rest will be dealt with by the sewer plant - or send it to the storm drains or the creek if they'll let you. Either way, you'll need to talk to the Wastewater Department of the city to get a Car Wash permit and see how they want the waste water dealt with..

If you can get Reclaimed Water from the sewer plant, it'll be worth it to water the bushes and run the Wash Pit. No sense using fresh potable water at triple the price if you can get Reclaimed.

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Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)

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