Keeping a trailer frame from rusting

On Wed, 21 Nov 2012 07:32:48 -0600, Ignoramus3598


I'd be willing to bet that if your local PTBs got wind of a business spreading oil around, they'd fine you so quick, your head would spin.
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Ignoramus3598 wrote:

Hydraulic oil has lots of rust inhibitors (compared to engine oil). It will work well. It combines well with the existing rust to make an effective barrier. Thin it with naphtha so that it soaks in.
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I have lots of hydraulic oil, new and used, but all clean.
i
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Ignoramus31399 wrote:

And STILL illegal to use this way. BUT go ahead. Just don't start crying when someone comes knocking on the door...
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Steve, I do not want to get in trouble with DOT or police, I am a new DOT registrant and want everything to be on the up and up. What exactly is the rule or law that you are referring to?
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Ignoramus31399 wrote:

There is a requirement on the DOT books to check vehicles for oil leakage or excessive oil seepage.
http://www.ehow.com/list_6863823_consequences-illegally-dumping-car-oil.html
"The EPA states illegal dumping of motor oil, or any hazardous waste to be "the disposal of waste in an unpermitted area, such as a back area of a yard, along stream bank[s], down storm drains or at some other off-road area". Waste is considered not only motor oil, but any solid, liquid, sludge or gas such as cleaning solutions, lubricants and leftover chemicals from commercial or private use."
Somewhere in this mess you will find the laws. http://www.epa.state.il.us/land/illegal-dumping/
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wrote:

Which is for SAFETY reasons, I believe.

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Part of the pre-trip check, no leaks from engine or other oily places.
That specifically does not apply to wiping the frame down with oil. i
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On Fri, 23 Nov 2012 14:15:17 -0600, Ignoramus1661

Hell it doesn't.
Okay, an Officer has just pulled you over and decided to poke around under the truck, and they find oil all over everything. Now it's up to you to prove that you applied every drop of oil on the chassis and undercarriage, to the satisfaction of the Highway Patrol officer or the EPA Inspector. That's going to be a VERY tall order, especially when he's looking for someone to fill his quota * for the week.
(* Officially, there is no "Quota" on peace officers for writing tickets - those are illegal, just like Bribing A Peace Officer is... But they usually have "Productivity Guidelines" that they have to meet. And conveniently enough, those aren't illegal...)
You have a choice - you can get busted for having an uncontrolled oil leak on the tractor that will get you hauled in for a Very Detailed Teardown, or you can get busted by the EPA for illegal dumping of waste oil on the roads and highways. Now you might get a choice from the Judge as to which one you can get out from under easier and cheaper - but either way, they'll have you dead to rights and you are going down.
Wouldn't it be smarter not to make a mess for yourself in the first place?
Just get it all cleaned up and painted under the tractor and trailer chassis to keep the rust from finding a starting place. Do NOT use "Undercoating" because it can rust underneath that for quite a while before you see it, and it's often too late.
Make yourself a washdown pit in the driveway - a concrete slab with a trench drain going to a grease trap (look up Jensen Precast or there's probably someone making them in the region) then the storm or sanitary sewer. And a 1/2" pipe crossing the slab in a slot (formed by a 2X4 on end) with holes drilled in it's top, 1/4" pipe couplers welded in, and a few fan-spray washer heads screwed into them. The nozzles need to end up just below the trench a bit, to where tires won't damage them.
Connect the pipe to a "Hotsy" heated pressure washer cranked up to 11. You do NOT want high powered jets that will work it's way into electronic connections and mess things up, you want a fan spray of near-boiling water mist that will melt any packed snow and salt slush and flush the salt and dirt off everything.
Turn the system on and let it warm up. Then drive slowly over the washer bay and hose the salt and crap off the chassis of the tractor and trailer - and while it's hot and running take all your other cars and pickups over it too.
The oils and greases will stop in the grease trap (or at least that's the theory...) and the heavy dirt will settle to the bottom. The rest will be dealt with by the sewer plant - or send it to the storm drains or the creek if they'll let you. Either way, you'll need to talk to the Wastewater Department of the city to get a Car Wash permit and see how they want the waste water dealt with..
If you can get Reclaimed Water from the sewer plant, it'll be worth it to water the bushes and run the Wash Pit. No sense using fresh potable water at triple the price if you can get Reclaimed.
--<< Bruce >>--
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On Fri, 23 Nov 2012 20:21:17 -0800, "Bruce L. Bergman (munged human

Undercoating oil is a jelled vegetable oil based product - often coloured for identification - and VERY effective. Often also contains lanolin - which helps set it up, like a wax.
Works AT LEAST as well as hydraulic oil - and is not considered a polutant as it is totally biodegradeable. Seaps into joints to provide hidden rust from starting. On cars and trucks don't spray it on engine or powertrain components. Then it's not hard to tell it is NOT an oil leak
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"Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)"

The undercoating I sprayed on the wheelbarrows that didn't do that (so far) is TMP Rubber Soundproofing Undercoat from Taylor Made Products. The wheelbarrows see only rainwater and condensation, not road salt. There may have been a residue of LPS-3 in the surface rust before I sprayed the undercoating. jsw
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On Wednesday, November 21, 2012 1:18:48 AM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:

I would spray it with liquid floor wax. I think that will last longer than oil. If you are willing to spend a bit more, go to a pottery supply and buy some microcrysaline mox. mix it with paint thinner so it is sprayable and use that. Microcrystaline wax is used in Cosmoline.

You can get phosphoric acid at Tractor Supply Company. It is used in the dairy business to clean pipes. It needs to be diluted. Look around an the internet for more info. Best if you wire brush to reduce the amount of rust that has to be converted.
Dan

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Ignoramus28180 wrote:

Well you could spray it with oil BUT since that would probably land you in jail these days (pollution and DOT checks)
You have limited options in the cheap category. Probably the cheapest would be to blast off any current rust with a blaster loaded with slag (NOT CHEAP SAND), then steam clean the places and spray them with a good equipment paint.
Personally I would blast the entire thing (you can do sections to lower the costs some) steam it and then use a good epoxy primer, topcoat that with bed liner material. Done correctly it would probably last the rest of the trailers life.
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It would also cost 3x-4x what the trailer cost me.
i
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On Wed, 21 Nov 2012 07:33:24 -0600, Ignoramus3598

And your point is...? There are no perfect solutions that aren't hella expensive. Like stripping the trailer to the bare steel major components and getting the whole thing Hot Dip Galvanized. Then you have to put it all back together again...
Get the trailer up in the air a little on cribbing. Better if you can get one side up at a 30 - 45-degree angle to make it easier.
Crawl under and spot-blast the rusty places then prime and paint them. Touch up all the paint under the trailer that's scratched or disrupted.
Then hose it out every chance you get during the winter to knock the salt off - especially on the tops of the frame rails and axles where it sits.
And every few years get under there to search out new rusty spots and clean, blast, prime and paint again.
--<< Bruce >>--
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On Wed, 21 Nov 2012 07:33:24 -0600, Ignoramus3598

So if I were given a 2009 Cadillac for free..I shouldnt change the oil, because it costs more than I paid for the car?
fascinating!!
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On 21/11/2012 11:46 AM, Ignoramus28180 wrote:

Clean it, de-rust it & spray it with something like the wurth underbody sealer. Its good shit & very easy to spray on using something like a cheap "kero gun".
<http://www.goodspeedmotoring.com/underbody-and-texture-coating/under-coatings/wurth-underbody-seal-black-08930475-08930751.html
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OIne problem with the Wurth underbody coating. ANY damage and moisture gets in behind, and you end up with a plastic/rust sandwich. You want something that stays soft and sticks to the surface of the metal.
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On Tue, 20 Nov 2012 21:46:18 -0600, Ignoramus28180

Linseed oil.
Regards,
Boris Mohar
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On 11/20/2012 9:46 PM, Ignoramus28180 wrote:

...

Actually, I'd probably not worry about it--it'll outlast you, anyway...
If you really want to do something, I'd suggest one of the rust-converting undercoating and then repaint the problem areas.
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