There is a requirement on the DOT books to check vehicles for oil
leakage or excessive oil seepage.
"The EPA states illegal dumping of motor oil, or any hazardous waste to
be "the disposal of waste in an unpermitted area, such as a back area of
a yard, along stream bank[s], down storm drains or at some other
off-road area". Waste is considered not only motor oil, but any solid,
liquid, sludge or gas such as cleaning solutions, lubricants and
leftover chemicals from commercial or private use."
Somewhere in this mess you will find the laws.
Hell it doesn't.
Okay, an Officer has just pulled you over and decided to poke around
under the truck, and they find oil all over everything. Now it's up
to you to prove that you applied every drop of oil on the chassis and
undercarriage, to the satisfaction of the Highway Patrol officer or
the EPA Inspector. That's going to be a VERY tall order, especially
when he's looking for someone to fill his quota * for the week.
(* Officially, there is no "Quota" on peace officers for writing
tickets - those are illegal, just like Bribing A Peace Officer is...
But they usually have "Productivity Guidelines" that they have to
meet. And conveniently enough, those aren't illegal...)
You have a choice - you can get busted for having an uncontrolled oil
leak on the tractor that will get you hauled in for a Very Detailed
Teardown, or you can get busted by the EPA for illegal dumping of
waste oil on the roads and highways. Now you might get a choice from
the Judge as to which one you can get out from under easier and
cheaper - but either way, they'll have you dead to rights and you are
Wouldn't it be smarter not to make a mess for yourself in the first
Just get it all cleaned up and painted under the tractor and trailer
chassis to keep the rust from finding a starting place. Do NOT use
"Undercoating" because it can rust underneath that for quite a while
before you see it, and it's often too late.
Make yourself a washdown pit in the driveway - a concrete slab with a
trench drain going to a grease trap (look up Jensen Precast or there's
probably someone making them in the region) then the storm or
sanitary sewer. And a 1/2" pipe crossing the slab in a slot (formed
by a 2X4 on end) with holes drilled in it's top, 1/4" pipe couplers
welded in, and a few fan-spray washer heads screwed into them. The
nozzles need to end up just below the trench a bit, to where tires
won't damage them.
Connect the pipe to a "Hotsy" heated pressure washer cranked up to 11.
You do NOT want high powered jets that will work it's way into
electronic connections and mess things up, you want a fan spray of
near-boiling water mist that will melt any packed snow and salt slush
and flush the salt and dirt off everything.
Turn the system on and let it warm up. Then drive slowly over the
washer bay and hose the salt and crap off the chassis of the tractor
and trailer - and while it's hot and running take all your other cars
and pickups over it too.
The oils and greases will stop in the grease trap (or at least that's
the theory...) and the heavy dirt will settle to the bottom. The rest
will be dealt with by the sewer plant - or send it to the storm drains
or the creek if they'll let you. Either way, you'll need to talk to
the Wastewater Department of the city to get a Car Wash permit and see
how they want the waste water dealt with..
If you can get Reclaimed Water from the sewer plant, it'll be worth it
to water the bushes and run the Wash Pit. No sense using fresh
potable water at triple the price if you can get Reclaimed.
--<< Bruce >>--
On Fri, 23 Nov 2012 20:21:17 -0800, "Bruce L. Bergman (munged human
Undercoating oil is a jelled vegetable oil based product - often
coloured for identification - and VERY effective. Often also contains
lanolin - which helps set it up, like a wax.
Works AT LEAST as well as hydraulic oil - and is not considered a
polutant as it is totally biodegradeable. Seaps into joints to provide
hidden rust from starting. On cars and trucks don't spray it on
engine or powertrain components. Then it's not hard to tell it is NOT
an oil leak
The undercoating I sprayed on the wheelbarrows that didn't do that (so
far) is TMP Rubber Soundproofing Undercoat from Taylor Made Products.
The wheelbarrows see only rainwater and condensation, not road salt.
There may have been a residue of LPS-3 in the surface rust before I
sprayed the undercoating.
On Wednesday, November 21, 2012 1:18:48 AM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
I would spray it with liquid floor wax. I think that will last longer than oil.
If you are willing to spend a bit more, go to a pottery supply and buy some
microcrysaline mox. mix it with paint thinner so it is sprayable and use that.
Microcrystaline wax is used in Cosmoline.
You can get phosphoric acid at Tractor Supply Company. It is used in the dairy
business to clean pipes. It needs to be diluted. Look around an the internet
for more info. Best if you wire brush to reduce the amount of rust that has to
Well you could spray it with oil BUT since that would probably land you
in jail these days (pollution and DOT checks)
You have limited options in the cheap category. Probably the cheapest
would be to blast off any current rust with a blaster loaded with slag
(NOT CHEAP SAND), then steam clean the places and spray them with a good
Personally I would blast the entire thing (you can do sections to lower
the costs some) steam it and then use a good epoxy primer, topcoat that
with bed liner material. Done correctly it would probably last the rest
of the trailers life.
And your point is...? There are no perfect solutions that aren't
hella expensive. Like stripping the trailer to the bare steel major
components and getting the whole thing Hot Dip Galvanized. Then you
have to put it all back together again...
Get the trailer up in the air a little on cribbing. Better if you can
get one side up at a 30 - 45-degree angle to make it easier.
Crawl under and spot-blast the rusty places then prime and paint them.
Touch up all the paint under the trailer that's scratched or
Then hose it out every chance you get during the winter to knock the
salt off - especially on the tops of the frame rails and axles where
And every few years get under there to search out new rusty spots and
clean, blast, prime and paint again.
--<< Bruce >>--
Clean it, de-rust it & spray it with something like the wurth underbody
sealer. Its good shit & very easy to spray on using something like a
cheap "kero gun".
OIne problem with the Wurth underbody coating. ANY damage and
moisture gets in behind, and you end up with a plastic/rust sandwich.
You want something that stays soft and sticks to the surface of the
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