Machine Gun Parts kits

I do recall some Tide versus Alconox debates from the day, with echos to this day. Both are used to this day. The cost of detergent is a tiny fraction of the cost of running a lab, so I don't really understand the point of the argument.

This is about twice the estimated LD50 dose for humans. We always knew that rats were tough little critters, and this completes the proof - pound for pound, they can drink us under the table.

However, this MSDS is for liquid Tide, which didn't exist in the 1960s. I wonder what the formula was back then? It will have had something like 10% phosphorus in it.

And dissolve stainless steel? I do recall the use of hot chromic acid.

Joe Gwinn

Since the 1940's the most effective ingredient has been the alkylbenzenesulfonate surfactant.

How it works:

jsw

Welcome. Good luck. Keep us posted.

Joe Gwinn

Finish Quantum along with their rins agent works quite well in my 2008 sears (Whirlpool) dishwasher.

Thanks; I'll look into this.

But for instance the user's manual for my circa 1999 dishwasher says if the detergent is less than 8% phosphorus, they (Bosch) do not guarantee dishwashing performance.

Joe Gwinn

OK.

Thanks, Joe. I'll give it a try. I have some 70% and 90% I can dilute. Would denatured work? I keep a gallon on hand.

I bought Magic Chef (made by Maytag, the only difference being that I got a plastic tub instead of SS, the repairman said) washer and dryer when I moved here in 2002. Later in 2002, I got a warranty motor put in the washer and new rollers put in the dryer. The new rollers were just as bad (thump, thump, thump upon startup, and the repairman told me there would be no improvement) and there wasn't.

Gimme a 20 y/o Kenmore next time, eh?

I'm still running the Maytag washing machine I bought second-hand in

Maytag replacement drive belts slip enough to let the motor come up to speed quickly . A standard, higher friction belt can burn out the start winding. jsw

Yeah, ancient Kenmores and Maytags are the cat's meow. Drilled and tapped for a filler tube, eh? Cool.

That new motor of mine released its magic chef smoke...with their OEM belt on it.

I would guess that denatured would work just fine, and there is no harm in trying it.

I bought the Bosch in January 2000.

Yeah.

What I replaced was a beat-up old Maytag that came with the house.

Joe Gwinn

The repair manual revealed an open area with nothing to damage inside. I used a spiral flute tap that pulled the continuous chips back out. The bottletop pump was meant to refill an outboard lower unit. It works on my truck transmission and transfer case too. jsw

"Jim Wilkins" fired this volley in news:kin2rq$9b8$1 @dont-email.me:

didja use that tap to drill the hole, too? Lloyd

On my planet our drill bits also have spiral flutes. jsw

Joe, problem solved. Thanks for your help.

It was the result of a change in detergents. About five months ago my local supermarket stopped carrying Finish powder, so I switched to Cascade. I didn't think that could be it, since the Cascade seemed to work fine for all those months.

But I talked to another friend who used to be a repairman for Sears. He said it was almost certainly the detergent. So I bought some of those fancy Finish capsules. I've run the dishwasher twice since then and everything is sparkling clean. It even seems to eat off the lime from stainless pots that already had a coating. I saved a couple without giving them the vinegar treatment, just to see what would happen.

So that appears to have been it. Now I can relax and fix the tub drain in my bathroom. d8-)

Thanks again.

Finish? That was the stuff I was trying to remember, specifically Finish Glass Magic. Finish Quantum PowerBall too. The magic ingredient is phosphate.

Boiling lye, to dissolve the hairballs?

Actually, what I do is to put a pile of straight lye in the drain and pour in about a cup of water, and let it work for awhile. Don't forget to rinse it all away later.

Joe Gwinn

Huntress

Finish, used to be Electrosol. I used the Finish Quantum packets.

Not the problem. The problem is 90-year-old cast iron pipe that I was having to auger out about once a month. The lye quit working 10 years ago. Sulfuric acid stopped working 5 years ago. It's time to bite the bullet.

I used a cast-iron pipe cracker and I've cracked the pipe at both ends. Now I have to work fast and replace it with PVC. If my wife has to bail the tub after showering during the work week, my ass is grass.

I was getting really good at that, buying my lye in bulk from these guys:

They have frequent sales.

Thanks to the sulfuric acid, my next job is to re-finish the tub with two-part polyurethane. Ugh. d8-(

The PVC pipe is noisier than cast iron, so you may want to wrap it in something to keep toilet-flush sounds down. At the very least, vibration isolate it from the joists and studs.

Good source of supply. Thanks.

This cannot be a vitreous enameled cast iron tub, which would laugh at anything save hydrofluoric acid.

Joe Gwinn

Ok, but this is a horizontal stretch that drains only the tub.

That's the way I did it. I was using a pound per shot at the end, before it just quit.

Yes, it is a vitreous enameled cast iron tub, probably 60 years old. And yes, the sulfuric flaked the enamel off the surface. It's like white sand in the bottom of the tub after you take a shower. And it wore right through at the drain.

Probably just wore the enamel out, over the decades. Does a puddle of water sit there, not quite able to drain? Glass does dissolve in water, but very slowly. This will render the glass porous and fragile.

So, after the recoat, make sure that the tub drains completely, leaving no puddles.

I've never recoated a bathtub, so I don't have any information on the best approach, but I'd have to think that two-part epoxy is the best way.

The key is to get things *really* clean - even the slightest soap film will totally defeat adhesion. One needs to use an acid that will chemically destroy the soap, especially the non-sodium soaps that form the core of soap scum, then neutralize the acid, etc. And follow up with Bon Ami and lots of elbow grease.

Joe Gwinn

It would, if I didn't bail and sponge it out. But no, I don't leave water standing in the tub.

Supposedly the two-part polyurethane is much more abrasion-resistant than epoxy. That would agree with current treatment of high-performance boats. I see that's what the quality refinishers are using, and someone -- maybe Sherwin-Wiliams? PPG? makes a kit just for that purpose. You apply it with a fine sponge roller. The spray is highly toxic.

I'll first sand it down a bit with a vibrating sander, I think, but I'll be checking into the recommended prep methods first. I realize it could be troublesome.

I appreciate the tips, Joe. I hate to screw these things up; there isn't time to do it twice.