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making hyd puller

I am considering making a puller to remove the drive clutch from the tapered end of the engine in a snowmobile. The current tool in use is a bolt with

3/4 16 external threads which engage the internal threads of the clutch and there is a smooth shank on the end of the bolt which extends to the crankkshaft and as you turn the bolt it applies enough pressure to separate the taper fit. The problem is some of these are very tight and the procedure involves heating and hammering (foul language seems to be of minimal assistance here) on the end of the bolt before it comes apart. I thought if I could reduce the friction from the bolt turning in the threads and the rubbing on the end of the crank ... if I drilled and reamed the bolt and installed a piston in the crank end and a grease fitting on the outer end I should be able to screw the bolt in till it bottoms and then use my grease gun to pump the piston out and separate the two pieces. all sounds good but now I need to do the math... after all there is no sense in doing this if it will not apply more force to the crank than the current method . I need some kind of formula to work this out

what I don't know how to find is

how much pressure am I applying to the end of the shaft now?

3/4 16 bolt applying approx 250 ftlb torque

I know how to figure the hydraulic option out Mike

Reply to
mike holmquist
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I welded a nut to the hex end of the 3/4-16 bolt and screw in a homemade slide hammer. This worked for me for ten years as a sled mechanic. Of course it only works of there is an access hole in the sheet metal adjacent to the clutch. If not, I use a tip protector which is a hardened disc that fits between the pusher bolt and the crank end. Use lots of grease. Sorry this doesn't answer your original question, but the above methods have never failed to work for me, even on an engine that had been under water for five months.

dean s dschwalm a t earthlink d o t net

cut-----

Reply to
das

It's been a long time since I used a wrench to tighten the bolt on a puller. Ever since I learned what a powerfull aid some vibration could be, I used my impact wrench. This is also very good for stuck bolts or nuts and you will have fewer rounded nuts or broken bolts.

Also, put some Never-Seez(sp?) on the threads of your puller bolt. These anti-seize compounds are a far better extreme pressure lube than oil or grease.

Ted

Reply to
Ted Edwards

Reply to
mike holmquist

Reply to
Carl

A very famous mechanic told me, but I never needed to use it.... Just drill and tap the 3/4" bolt for a grease zerk. Why build the piston too? Screw in the bolt, and if needed use the grease gun pressure.

Pete

Reply to
Pete Logghe

I learned the hard way, the ~ 10,000 psi from a good grease gun doesn't go far if the effective surface area is small.

I made some gate hinges with a captive steel ball taking the vertical load. (Easy way to make low-friction hinges for heavy loads.) Grease zerk above the ball entering through a 1/4" tapped hole. Figured the grease pressure would easily lift the gate off the ball to force the grease past it and through the rest of the hinge. Nothing happened - grease wouldn't go in until I lifted the gate. Actual force in the 1/4" hole worked out to about

500 lbs, not enough to force the hinge pins to slide.

Grease gun working against the area of a 3/4" bolt hole isn't so bad, closer to 5000 lbs than 500 but still pales compared to the ~ 30,000 lbs you get just by turning the bolt. The power of a grease-gun piston becomes dramatic when the piston diameter gets up into inches.

I've built some real quick-and-dirty custom pullers for ball joints and steering joints and found, at least with the cars I was working on, the studs in question always had center holes so a lubed point on the screw was plenty to drive it straight. That, and a beefy enough bolt and frame to easily stay lined up.

Bob

Reply to
Toolbert

Yep, found out the hard way that a grease gun doesn't really have a lot of pressure. A friend had a Link Belt dragline (all 39,000 pounds of it!) with a frozen grease line to the track chain adjuster. Grease gun was a no go. Unscrewed the zerk fitting, inserted a blasting cap, lit fuse, walked around to the other side, BANG. Replaced zerk fitting, all worked well. Amazing what kind of pressures you can get using 25,000 fps explosives! I'd suggest that you not try this with anyting less than the 2-1/2" shaft on the Link Belt.

Cheers.

Toolbert wrote:

Reply to
Roy J

I posted this before but it seems my ISP's Altzheimer's continues.

Lube the threads and tip with Never-Seez(sp?) (anti-sieze compound) and use an impact wrench. The anti-sieze compounds are a much more effective extreme pressure lube than any oil or grease and the vibration from an impact wrench is a big help - much more effective than a steady pull.

Ted

Reply to
Ted Edwards

Reply to
mike holmquist

Roy i'll bet those blasting caps would be just the thing to remove my clutch with !

Mike

Reply to
mike holmquist

On Sun, 04 Jan 2004 22:36:54 GMT, "Toolbert" vaguely proposed a theory ......and in reply I say!:

Thinking. If you had just arranged it so that the balls did not block the grease hole, with some sort of shim or washer, then grease would have got in and acted on the surface of the ball, not just the 1/4" that covered the grease hole.

**************************************************** sorry remove ns from my header address to reply via email

I was frightened by the idea of a conspiracy that was causing it all. But then I was terrified that maybe there was no plan, really. Is this unpleasant mess all a mistake?

Reply to
Old Nick

Reply to
D. LeClere

||Alittle trick with heating tapers to remove: || Start the heat at the small end.

I know this isn't exactly what you are discussing, but I have a dead center stuck in a tailstock spindle. Great big Morse #0. So I apply heat to the outboard (handle) end? Texas Parts Guy

Reply to
Rex B

Makes real good sense, Dan. I wish I'd known that back in '97 when I had to pull the bottom wheel off my old bandsaw. It took me about a week!

Speaking of marine propellers, I was given one today. It's about 15" in diameter, and is made of brass or bronze. Probably weighs 20-30 pounds, maybe a little more. Not a bad trade for a couple of hours helping my neighbors clean out their garage.

Grant

Reply to
Grant Erwin

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